Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
For those with early 3rd gen Camaros who swap in an LT1 or LS1, that pesky cable drive speedometer can give you fits. I tried a Cable-X box, a complete waste of $300 (couldn't drive the speedometer). I've resorted to using the speedometer and odometer functions of the Garmin, but that's a hassle (and I need to use my Garmin for other things from time to time).
It may seem a little pricey, but I finally bit the bullet and got the Dakota Digital Camaro instrument cluster. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod&prd781.htm . Actually didn't cost any more than putting together a cluster with a Covan face plate and adding aftermarket gauges.
It has its own control box that you mount remotely and feed the inputs to, then a quick-disconnecting harness that goes up to the cluster. The cluster mounts in the dash using your existing bezel. Comes with temp and oil pressure senders (and a cable drive VSS transducer, which, of course, wouldn't be used in an LT1 or LS1 swap). The only thing I'm not sure about is SES, which they say is displayed, but I don't see the light for it.
I got the silver alloy and red version, ordered from Summit for slightly less than DD lists it (I had called Summit a couple of months ago to see if they could get it, they created the listing for me http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-VHX82CCAMSR ). I haven't had a chance to install it yet, but I'm looking forward to it. Kind of tired of the comments at the track about "illegal electronics" (referring to the Garmin)...
It may seem a little pricey, but I finally bit the bullet and got the Dakota Digital Camaro instrument cluster. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod&prd781.htm . Actually didn't cost any more than putting together a cluster with a Covan face plate and adding aftermarket gauges.
It has its own control box that you mount remotely and feed the inputs to, then a quick-disconnecting harness that goes up to the cluster. The cluster mounts in the dash using your existing bezel. Comes with temp and oil pressure senders (and a cable drive VSS transducer, which, of course, wouldn't be used in an LT1 or LS1 swap). The only thing I'm not sure about is SES, which they say is displayed, but I don't see the light for it.
I got the silver alloy and red version, ordered from Summit for slightly less than DD lists it (I had called Summit a couple of months ago to see if they could get it, they created the listing for me http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-VHX82CCAMSR ). I haven't had a chance to install it yet, but I'm looking forward to it. Kind of tired of the comments at the track about "illegal electronics" (referring to the Garmin)...
Last edited by five7kid; 05-09-2012 at 12:44 AM.
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Car: 1990 RS
Engine: LS1
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Axle/Gears: 3.73 9 bolt
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Looks sweet. What is going to be displayed on the 2 little screens under the speedo and tach? Could the SES be displayed on one of those? Also what is the spot for unter the tach, does the volt gauge go there or is it gone?
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
that looks great!!!!!! it'll look almost factory in the dash
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Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
I like the look of the gauges themselves but am not a fan of the silver screws showing all over it. I imagine that gets covered up by the factory bezel though?
Looking at the image here:
They show it with a silver bezel. As long as the black bezel fits over what you have pictures the same way it's not to shabby.
For the volt meter they say it is displayed in the "Message center", I don't know which LCD is considered the message center but in all their example photos the left one shows odometer, and the right one has the time. It also looks as if all the other info can be displayed in the message center as well. So I'm guessing the two LCDs can both be cycled to display numerical data for any of the stuff including two trip odometers, 1/4 mile times, plus high rpm recall and other stuff.
They also have add on modules that let you get more stuff including things like outside temperature sensors.
Sounds pretty nicely done. I might have to invest in one of these instead of a set of auto meter gauges when I get around to it. I imagine the speedo can be calibrated similarly.
Looking at the image here:
They show it with a silver bezel. As long as the black bezel fits over what you have pictures the same way it's not to shabby.
For the volt meter they say it is displayed in the "Message center", I don't know which LCD is considered the message center but in all their example photos the left one shows odometer, and the right one has the time. It also looks as if all the other info can be displayed in the message center as well. So I'm guessing the two LCDs can both be cycled to display numerical data for any of the stuff including two trip odometers, 1/4 mile times, plus high rpm recall and other stuff.
They also have add on modules that let you get more stuff including things like outside temperature sensors.
Sounds pretty nicely done. I might have to invest in one of these instead of a set of auto meter gauges when I get around to it. I imagine the speedo can be calibrated similarly.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I don't know why their photos show that silver bezel, because that isn't what the final product looks like. Unless, of course, you modify your bezel to look like that.
I'm thinking it will look pretty factory as well. Much more so than my other car with the Covan and mixed aftermarket gauges ( https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ghlight=wiring ). I don't like the Covan layout as well either - the fuel gauge hides behind the ignition switch with it.
I hope you don't have to wait too long to see how it looks installed. I'm not sure when I'll get to it, though. The next project is rear shocks (again) on my wife's car, then the S&W torque arm in the LS1/T56 car. Then hopefully this.
(Oh, guess I was wrong in the previous post about the brake & SES light ... )
I'm thinking it will look pretty factory as well. Much more so than my other car with the Covan and mixed aftermarket gauges ( https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ghlight=wiring ). I don't like the Covan layout as well either - the fuel gauge hides behind the ignition switch with it.
I hope you don't have to wait too long to see how it looks installed. I'm not sure when I'll get to it, though. The next project is rear shocks (again) on my wife's car, then the S&W torque arm in the LS1/T56 car. Then hopefully this.
(Oh, guess I was wrong in the previous post about the brake & SES light ... )
Last edited by five7kid; 05-09-2012 at 01:00 AM.
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Looks good.
Any pictures of the Dakota Dash in third gen car?
Not cheap, but I might get one anyway.
Any pictures of the Dakota Dash in third gen car?
Not cheap, but I might get one anyway.
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#8
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Waiting to see this installed...been considering this myself...
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW, Disk, Posi-traction
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Will the Dakota cluster plug into the existing Camaro connector?
$800 is not cheap, but I'll keep an eye out for discount coupons.
$800 is not cheap, but I'll keep an eye out for discount coupons.
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
I've heard mixed reviews on their digital dashes, so I'm curious how their higher end analog dashes work. I really like the ability to interface other readouts in the driver info center with the addon module(s)
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Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro
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Axle/Gears: Detroit Truetrac with 3.73 gears
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
I must be missing something. Other than the pictured one being silver, what is different from the factory bezel? Like I said in my post I'm assuming the factory bezel simply sits over the top of the gauge cluster you order from them.
Or does it come with a different bezel that doesn't look like that? I don't see any bezels in the picture in the first post.
This is a stock bezel other than the silver rings from another post on the forums here:
Last edited by Steven6282; 05-09-2012 at 11:47 AM.
#12
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
All of the factory bezels I've seen have been black. That's all. Have you seen a silver factory bezel? They may exist, but I didn't know that if they do.
And, no, it doesn't come with another bezel. I showed everything that came in the box in my photo. You use your existing factory bezel.
It would be nice if the cluster plugged right into the factory connectors. But, alas, that is not to be.
And, no, it doesn't come with another bezel. I showed everything that came in the box in my photo. You use your existing factory bezel.
It would be nice if the cluster plugged right into the factory connectors. But, alas, that is not to be.
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
I notice in the picture above that the gauge faces and needles are both white in color.
Is there enough contrast in color to make the gauges easy to read?
Guess it looks different when powered up.
Is there enough contrast in color to make the gauges easy to read?
Guess it looks different when powered up.
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
i wonder if they would make one with km/hr instead of miles?
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Can't hurt to ask. Should just be a faceplate change.
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Oh no you didn't!!! Damn, I wanted to be the first one to get those gauges, JK ! Those things look bad ***, but I am pretty sure you are not going to like how they perform in your car, and should sell them to me cheap....
I tried real hard to get a GP going on those a while ago, but it just didn't pan out. I am glad you ended up getting them, and will patiently wait to see how much you love them. I will hopefully end up with a set later this year.
I tried real hard to get a GP going on those a while ago, but it just didn't pan out. I am glad you ended up getting them, and will patiently wait to see how much you love them. I will hopefully end up with a set later this year.
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW, Disk, Posi-traction
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
@five7kid - any chance of a few pics of the back of the unit and the front with power applied?
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Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
The weird thing about their website though is I don't see any way to order the set that five7kid has. It's shown in some of their pictures, but when you are going through the purchasing option, it's only giving the options for blue or red, which I don't like the look of as much as the one five7kid has.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod&prd781.htm
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
I was just trying to figure out how it plugs into the existing gauge wires, or if you need to wire up a new set of senders.
The 1/4 mile timer is pretty sexy.
Winder if you can calibrate the speedo via software?
Always something else to buy for the Camaro. Sometimes I love this forum, sometime I hate it ...
The 1/4 mile timer is pretty sexy.
Winder if you can calibrate the speedo via software?
Always something else to buy for the Camaro. Sometimes I love this forum, sometime I hate it ...
#20
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You can probably use existing senders if they output the correct voltage. The factory 3rd gen senders should all work directly with this cluster. Also, I understand the LS1 PCM oil pressure output works with the 3rd gen gauge (I didn't try it myself), so it will probably work with this cluster. But, they provide the water temp and oil pressure sending units with the cluster, so if there is any doubt, just use them.
Note the wiring from the senders goes to the module, not the cluster. The module-to-cluster harness is provided, and makes it so you don't have to wire anything else to the cluster itself.
Steven, the one I have is the red version. It doesn't look red in my pic, because it isn't powered up.
I haven't gotten deep enough into it yet to know how the speedometer is calibrated. It should be a switch for 4000 ppm, which means you'd better have your gears and tire size right in your computer. Or, if using the cable driven sender, the right cable drive gears in the tranny.
Note the wiring from the senders goes to the module, not the cluster. The module-to-cluster harness is provided, and makes it so you don't have to wire anything else to the cluster itself.
Steven, the one I have is the red version. It doesn't look red in my pic, because it isn't powered up.
I haven't gotten deep enough into it yet to know how the speedometer is calibrated. It should be a switch for 4000 ppm, which means you'd better have your gears and tire size right in your computer. Or, if using the cable driven sender, the right cable drive gears in the tranny.
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Looks like a great little upgrade.
Modern gauges without the hassle of putting in a 4th gen dash!
With different tyre and gearing settings there must be a way to calibrate the speedo.
@5.7, can you upload anything from the instruction manual?
Not a big deal, but would be nice if the temp and pressures were in metric.
Anyone have an idea how other Dakota Digital clusters have held up over the years, any problems?
Modern gauges without the hassle of putting in a 4th gen dash!
With different tyre and gearing settings there must be a way to calibrate the speedo.
@5.7, can you upload anything from the instruction manual?
Not a big deal, but would be nice if the temp and pressures were in metric.
Anyone have an idea how other Dakota Digital clusters have held up over the years, any problems?
#22
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Steven, the one I have is the red version. It doesn't look red in my pic, because it isn't powered up.
I haven't gotten deep enough into it yet to know how the speedometer is calibrated. It should be a switch for 4000 ppm, which means you'd better have your gears and tire size right in your computer. Or, if using the cable driven sender, the right cable drive gears in the tranny.
I haven't gotten deep enough into it yet to know how the speedometer is calibrated. It should be a switch for 4000 ppm, which means you'd better have your gears and tire size right in your computer. Or, if using the cable driven sender, the right cable drive gears in the tranny.
As for the speedo calibration, it looks simple enough and should not matter what gears you have in your transmission, nor what your computer is sending as long as it's a constant ratio to actual speed:
Auto Cal (AUTO)
This menu is used to calibrate the speed signal by driving a measured mile. Start this
procedure with the vehicle stopped at the beginning of a known measured mile. Shut the car off,
press and hold SW1 and turn the key on and start the car then release the switch to get into
setup once the car is running. Then select the speed setup menus.
When “speed AUTO” is displayed press and hold SW1 until you get “SPD Pulses 0”
Release SW1 and the speed/LCD1 message display should read “SPD Pulses 0”, LCD2
will read “Setup”. The other gauges should display the current readings (tach, fuel,
volt, water, and oil). Stopped at the beginning of the measured mile, the “SPD Pulses
0” reading should stay at “0” until you start driving. If this is number is increasing while
stopped, you have something wired wrong or are picking up interference; please check
connections and wire routing before continuing or you will have incorrect readings later.
Begin driving the measured mile.
The “SPD Pulses x” reading should start to increase as you travel, indicating the pulses
received from the speed sensor or VSS. This is known as the pulses per mile (PPM).
The acceptable range for this is about 2,000 – 250,000.
Once you reach the end of the marked mile, or are passing the marker, press and release
SW1. The readings will zero out, then everything should move up to the correct values
and the speedometer should now be displaying your current speed.
Auto Cal is now complete and your speedometer should be reading correctly.
NOTES: You do not have to drive at a constant speed nor do you have to avoid stopping
during Auto Cal. When completed, you do not need to stop; you may, but you can also
just press and release SW1 as you pass the one mile mark.
The message display cannot be used to determine when the mile has been driven; it’s only
there as a reference to indicate pulses are coming into the control box. Even if you have
an 8,000 PPM sensor you may calibrate at 9xxx PPM (for example) due to gearing and tire
size.
Also be aware that the odometer is calculated from the speedometer cal value; if it is not
calibrated properly, the odometer reading could be higher/lower than actual.
***If you do not receive more than 2,000 pulses during calibration the unit will error out
and display a brief “pulse to low” message and revert to a default PPM setting.
This menu is used to calibrate the speed signal by driving a measured mile. Start this
procedure with the vehicle stopped at the beginning of a known measured mile. Shut the car off,
press and hold SW1 and turn the key on and start the car then release the switch to get into
setup once the car is running. Then select the speed setup menus.
When “speed AUTO” is displayed press and hold SW1 until you get “SPD Pulses 0”
Release SW1 and the speed/LCD1 message display should read “SPD Pulses 0”, LCD2
will read “Setup”. The other gauges should display the current readings (tach, fuel,
volt, water, and oil). Stopped at the beginning of the measured mile, the “SPD Pulses
0” reading should stay at “0” until you start driving. If this is number is increasing while
stopped, you have something wired wrong or are picking up interference; please check
connections and wire routing before continuing or you will have incorrect readings later.
Begin driving the measured mile.
The “SPD Pulses x” reading should start to increase as you travel, indicating the pulses
received from the speed sensor or VSS. This is known as the pulses per mile (PPM).
The acceptable range for this is about 2,000 – 250,000.
Once you reach the end of the marked mile, or are passing the marker, press and release
SW1. The readings will zero out, then everything should move up to the correct values
and the speedometer should now be displaying your current speed.
Auto Cal is now complete and your speedometer should be reading correctly.
NOTES: You do not have to drive at a constant speed nor do you have to avoid stopping
during Auto Cal. When completed, you do not need to stop; you may, but you can also
just press and release SW1 as you pass the one mile mark.
The message display cannot be used to determine when the mile has been driven; it’s only
there as a reference to indicate pulses are coming into the control box. Even if you have
an 8,000 PPM sensor you may calibrate at 9xxx PPM (for example) due to gearing and tire
size.
Also be aware that the odometer is calculated from the speedometer cal value; if it is not
calibrated properly, the odometer reading could be higher/lower than actual.
***If you do not receive more than 2,000 pulses during calibration the unit will error out
and display a brief “pulse to low” message and revert to a default PPM setting.
#25
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I haven't been able to start on it yet, actually. I've been spending what garage time I have doing a different torque arm on the LS1/T56 car. Will probably be after Memorial Day before I can tackle this.
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW, Disk, Posi-traction
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
What type of bulbs does it use for the indicators, warning lights etc?
Would be great if you could apply power and take some photos for us.
Would be great if you could apply power and take some photos for us.
#27
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Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I'm not sure of the bulb type. Haven't looked into that.
I'd like to power it up for you, but figuring it out without actually installing it would take precious time from other things (like sleeping).
I'd like to power it up for you, but figuring it out without actually installing it would take precious time from other things (like sleeping).
#28
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Sleep is over-rated. Life is short and you're dead a long while.
A few of us are keen on the same Dakota VHX. Watching your build with anticipation.
Big question is how it looks in real life and thus what color to get?
A few of us are keen on the same Dakota VHX. Watching your build with anticipation.
Big question is how it looks in real life and thus what color to get?
#30
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Car: 86 sport coup
Engine: room for rent looking for ls power
Transmission: t-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
this is such a nice set up, its on my parts list for my dream lsx swap!
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Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
@five7kid - any progress on the install?
#32
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Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Life keeps getting in the way of living...
I was planning on having the LS1/T56 car to drive while I did this install, with the pickup for a backup. Well, I need to have the exhaust redone on the LS1/T56 car, open headers right now with a June 6 appointment at the shop; and my son needs to drive the truck because the tranny went out on his S10 Blazer (with LS1 clone).
So, it'll probably be a couple of weeks more before I can start on this. There is a slight chance of getting to it this weekend, but I'm not going to hold my breath.
I was planning on having the LS1/T56 car to drive while I did this install, with the pickup for a backup. Well, I need to have the exhaust redone on the LS1/T56 car, open headers right now with a June 6 appointment at the shop; and my son needs to drive the truck because the tranny went out on his S10 Blazer (with LS1 clone).
So, it'll probably be a couple of weeks more before I can start on this. There is a slight chance of getting to it this weekend, but I'm not going to hold my breath.
#33
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Okay, got the other car back (nice & quiet now), first chance to work on this was Monday evening. My son was putting the transmission back in his S10 in the next garage stall, so my time with the car was interrupted a lot helping him with that job.
I didn't have the camera out in the garage with me, but I'll do that as the install progresses. All I got done so far was removing the factory cluster (calling it "factory" is a bit of a misnomer, as the whole thing is a bastard), removing the lower dash panels, and getting the engine temp and oil pressure senders installed.
The temp sender comes with an adapter for LS engines - thought that was a nice touch. I installed it in the passenger side head. It fit better than the Autometer sender/adapter I used on the other car. I had put a 3-prong CTS in the driver side head, so I took that out and put the original 2-prong back in (a 3-prong CTS with adapter harness is available if anyone is interested...).
The oil pressure sender is a nice compact unit. It is 3-wire with braid: +/- power, signal, and shield. I had already modified the LS1 oil cooler block off (or whatever you call that thing) for the pressure sender, so it was just a matter of removing the old sender and wire, and screwing in the DakDig sender and routing their harness to it. Amazing how much oil came out before I could get the new sender in...
Won't be able to work on it this evening due to other obligations, but I'll post pics when I get to it again.
I didn't have the camera out in the garage with me, but I'll do that as the install progresses. All I got done so far was removing the factory cluster (calling it "factory" is a bit of a misnomer, as the whole thing is a bastard), removing the lower dash panels, and getting the engine temp and oil pressure senders installed.
The temp sender comes with an adapter for LS engines - thought that was a nice touch. I installed it in the passenger side head. It fit better than the Autometer sender/adapter I used on the other car. I had put a 3-prong CTS in the driver side head, so I took that out and put the original 2-prong back in (a 3-prong CTS with adapter harness is available if anyone is interested...).
The oil pressure sender is a nice compact unit. It is 3-wire with braid: +/- power, signal, and shield. I had already modified the LS1 oil cooler block off (or whatever you call that thing) for the pressure sender, so it was just a matter of removing the old sender and wire, and screwing in the DakDig sender and routing their harness to it. Amazing how much oil came out before I could get the new sender in...
Won't be able to work on it this evening due to other obligations, but I'll post pics when I get to it again.
#34
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW, Disk, Posi-traction
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Sounds good, thanks for the update.
Looking forward to pictures.
Looking forward to pictures.
#35
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Okay, finally got back to work on it a bit more Friday evening. I think I found a good place to mount the control module - I didn't have a memory card for the camera (my wife had it with her in her laptop), so I didn't get any pics tonight, but I will when I work on it again.
I spent most of my time this evening identifying wires from the cluster and hooking them to the control module. The engine temp and oil pressure were easy enough to hook up, since I'm using their senders for those. Battery and keyed power, and ground were simply taken from the wires I ran for the aftermarket tach I've been running. With those hooked up, I could connect the cluster and power it up for the first time. I checked each function as I hooked them up - oil, temp, tach, fuel level, speedo, turn signals, high beams, and brake. Still left is check engine (I wasted a bunch of time identifying that wire from the PCM due to a mislabeled chart I was using) and the two momentary switches for the settings and functions (I think I'm going to mount them above the lighter socket if I can figure out how to drill holes there - otherwise, I'll put them to the side) and it should be ready to go. I'm also going to hook up the OBDII connector while I'm in there (finally).
Basically the task comes down to identifying the various function wires and running jumpers to the control module. Time consuming, but not particularly difficult.
I spent most of my time this evening identifying wires from the cluster and hooking them to the control module. The engine temp and oil pressure were easy enough to hook up, since I'm using their senders for those. Battery and keyed power, and ground were simply taken from the wires I ran for the aftermarket tach I've been running. With those hooked up, I could connect the cluster and power it up for the first time. I checked each function as I hooked them up - oil, temp, tach, fuel level, speedo, turn signals, high beams, and brake. Still left is check engine (I wasted a bunch of time identifying that wire from the PCM due to a mislabeled chart I was using) and the two momentary switches for the settings and functions (I think I'm going to mount them above the lighter socket if I can figure out how to drill holes there - otherwise, I'll put them to the side) and it should be ready to go. I'm also going to hook up the OBDII connector while I'm in there (finally).
Basically the task comes down to identifying the various function wires and running jumpers to the control module. Time consuming, but not particularly difficult.
Last edited by five7kid; 06-16-2012 at 01:32 AM.
#36
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Car: 92 firebird
Engine: 305 tpi "stock"
Transmission: slipping
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi disk brakes!
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
I would love this for my bird. 92 style that is, Maybe add some blue leds that flicker with the ____ hahahah ofcourse these are my ideas. . . .
Seems like a fun wiring job as well!!!
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW, Disk, Posi-traction
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
@five7kid - great to hear you're making progress, please keep us updated.
Did you get the red or blue lighting?
Did you get the red or blue lighting?
#38
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
I cant wait to see this. One of the reasons I prefer the 90-92 was the cluster but this looks like a cool option for not worrying about the cable driven speedo.
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW, Disk, Posi-traction
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Getting rid of the cable driven speedo is a big plus.
Will be interesting to see how readable the white needle on a light gray background works.
Only negative I can see is the font face that Dakota Digital used, looks a bit out of place.
Will be interesting to see how readable the white needle on a light gray background works.
Only negative I can see is the font face that Dakota Digital used, looks a bit out of place.
#40
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
i went with the red lighting option. I wonder now if I should have gone with the blue, as it more closely matches the stereo. Oh, well...
As for wiring, it's nothing compared the Covan panel with individual gauges that I put in the other car. That was painful. And I didn't like the results much (can't see the fuel gauge behind the ignition key without bending over, for instance).
As for wiring, it's nothing compared the Covan panel with individual gauges that I put in the other car. That was painful. And I didn't like the results much (can't see the fuel gauge behind the ignition key without bending over, for instance).
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW, Disk, Posi-traction
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
I hope to go with the red lighting.
My car is being repainted white with red badges, with a black interior and red stiching.
My car is being repainted white with red badges, with a black interior and red stiching.
#43
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Okay, as promised...
A logical place to mount the control module.
For the sake of ease of drilling, I put the control switches on the side. The forward one is mostly for settings (it's mounted in the hole I used to pass the Autometer tach wires through), the rearward one switches between modes (mostly).
I reflashed the PCM to reset the tach output to 8 cylinder, then went through the basic cluster settings. At first the backlighting wasn't doing anything, and I finally figured out it had to be set up before it would come on. I basically used the brightest setting. This is a shot with the trouble light on behind me, and the camera flash. Obviously I hadn't bolted the column back up yet (the steering wheel got in the way of the photo).
The dimmer function doesn't work with the factory dimmer switch (kind of a bummer). You need to buy a separate switch if you want dim function - I rarely dim the panel, so we'll see how that works out. This is a shot with the trouble light off and without the flash. Should work well for night racing without headlights on.
It has a tach warning function, which may act as a shift light (I haven't figured out automatic shift modification with HP Tuners yet). I'll have to try it out and see how it works. It has three tach response modes, default was the slowest setting. I reset that to the quickest, assuming a lagging tach isn't a good idea when racing. I also assume (nothing to back this up) that having the PCM output at the 8 cylinder setting will give a quicker signal update. It'll be interesting, because I've hit the rev limiter a few times when I wasn't quick enough on the shift. I had to set the Autometer tach on 4 cyl because the original tune didn't set the tach output to 8 cylinder like I requested (almost 2 years ago...).
I'll have to take it out on the road for a 1-mile measured calibration of the speedometer. I would have figured it would have a standard 4000 PPM setting, but if it does, I haven't figured that out yet.
A logical place to mount the control module.
For the sake of ease of drilling, I put the control switches on the side. The forward one is mostly for settings (it's mounted in the hole I used to pass the Autometer tach wires through), the rearward one switches between modes (mostly).
I reflashed the PCM to reset the tach output to 8 cylinder, then went through the basic cluster settings. At first the backlighting wasn't doing anything, and I finally figured out it had to be set up before it would come on. I basically used the brightest setting. This is a shot with the trouble light on behind me, and the camera flash. Obviously I hadn't bolted the column back up yet (the steering wheel got in the way of the photo).
The dimmer function doesn't work with the factory dimmer switch (kind of a bummer). You need to buy a separate switch if you want dim function - I rarely dim the panel, so we'll see how that works out. This is a shot with the trouble light off and without the flash. Should work well for night racing without headlights on.
It has a tach warning function, which may act as a shift light (I haven't figured out automatic shift modification with HP Tuners yet). I'll have to try it out and see how it works. It has three tach response modes, default was the slowest setting. I reset that to the quickest, assuming a lagging tach isn't a good idea when racing. I also assume (nothing to back this up) that having the PCM output at the 8 cylinder setting will give a quicker signal update. It'll be interesting, because I've hit the rev limiter a few times when I wasn't quick enough on the shift. I had to set the Autometer tach on 4 cyl because the original tune didn't set the tach output to 8 cylinder like I requested (almost 2 years ago...).
I'll have to take it out on the road for a 1-mile measured calibration of the speedometer. I would have figured it would have a standard 4000 PPM setting, but if it does, I haven't figured that out yet.
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW, Disk, Posi-traction
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Fantastic update, thanks.
How readable are the LCD digits?
How readable are the LCD digits?
#45
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Oh, this is the first time since I installed the LS1/4L60E in Sep '10 that I've had the check engine light hooked up. To my amazement, there were no codes set.
Last edited by five7kid; 06-16-2012 at 11:38 PM.
#47
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Buttoned it up and took it out for a calibration drive. I'm wondering if the mile markers aren't accurate around here. It was about 4200 pulses between the markers, and the speedo seems to be slow. It has an adjustment function that lets you compare it to another source like GPS, so I guess I'll try that tomorrow.
The tach is a little hard to see because of the smaller diameter/fatter aftermarket steering wheel. Wish I had a stock one again (with a working horn button - I have a stock one, but the horn terminals are busted off). The LS1/T56 car still has a stock steering wheel, and frankly I prefer it. The tach does seem to be much more responsive than it was when I first set it up.
I think I found the transmission shift settings in HP Tuners, so I'll probably try to get it to shift itself from here on.
Should also mention that it does have a night dimmer function. Connect the "DIM" terminal to the park or headlight signal, and it'll dim the display to a preset level. I didn't do that, but if the daytime setting turns out to be too bright at night, I'll go ahead and hook it up.
Overall, it looks like it belongs there (to me, anyway).
Oh, did I mention it has 0-60 time, and 1/4 mile ET & MPH functions?
The tach is a little hard to see because of the smaller diameter/fatter aftermarket steering wheel. Wish I had a stock one again (with a working horn button - I have a stock one, but the horn terminals are busted off). The LS1/T56 car still has a stock steering wheel, and frankly I prefer it. The tach does seem to be much more responsive than it was when I first set it up.
I think I found the transmission shift settings in HP Tuners, so I'll probably try to get it to shift itself from here on.
Should also mention that it does have a night dimmer function. Connect the "DIM" terminal to the park or headlight signal, and it'll dim the display to a preset level. I didn't do that, but if the daytime setting turns out to be too bright at night, I'll go ahead and hook it up.
Overall, it looks like it belongs there (to me, anyway).
Oh, did I mention it has 0-60 time, and 1/4 mile ET & MPH functions?
Last edited by five7kid; 06-18-2012 at 12:55 PM.
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro (RHD)
Engine: 350 ci L98 SBC
Transmission: T700
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW, Disk, Posi-traction
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
Any more pics?
Tried the 1/4 mile timer yet?
Tried the 1/4 mile timer yet?
#50
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Re: Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster for Camaro
No, no more pics right now. With the steering column up in place, a pic wouldn't show you much. I haven't tried the 1/4 mile function, because it just smokes the street tires on the street. Next time I have it at the track, I'll see how it compares to the timeslip.
It was easy to read in the daylight. I adjusted the speed calibration on the way in to work today using the Garmin, and managed to get it to match well (as well as match the radar sign in the parking lot at work...).
Overall, I'm very pleased. I did realize, though, that I haven't verified the voltmeter function yet. Don't use it very often, but it would be good to know it's available.
It was easy to read in the daylight. I adjusted the speed calibration on the way in to work today using the Garmin, and managed to get it to match well (as well as match the radar sign in the parking lot at work...).
Overall, I'm very pleased. I did realize, though, that I haven't verified the voltmeter function yet. Don't use it very often, but it would be good to know it's available.
Last edited by five7kid; 06-18-2012 at 12:54 PM.