6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Has anyone done the mod and has pictures or info on it. Im looking for any links on here but cant find anything that really explains it. If you can help me out that would be appricated. Thanks

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You drill and tap a barbed fitting to the flat spot over the upper port. Nothing special about it

Be careful because the alum is very thin there and easy to strip. A 90* fits best

Alternatively if you have the stock 3rd gen radiator, check the heater core return port to see if its threaded. If it is, screw a barbed fitting directly in there and run the steam line to it. Saves you the trouble of permanently altering your pump

Z28 MeTaL HeAd

Dude, i told you I would do this for you...


And Pocket...his waterpump doesn't have a flat spot over the upper port.

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Yeah its odd it doesnt have a flat spot at all. I will see if the rad has that return line as i think it does actually as there is a rubber cap on there. Never knew what it was for, i guess i do now.

LOL i know you did just trying to get ahead of the game before the snow falls.

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

well I did the mod and since I havnt seen a water pump like mine on here I thought id share some pics of how i did it. Notice the top of my pump is rounded and not flat like a average LS fbody water pump. Heres some pics if anyone needs to know how to do it in the future

rock861261

where did you get that fitting from? partnumber?

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Here ya go.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NEX-16106/

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Got it from a local parts place. I know napa carries them for a few bucks. Mine had a few of them and are common to have. All it is, is a brass 90 fitting. Ita the same as the post above with the summit link

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

The part I posted is the actual part I ordered and used on my Holley fuel pump. It's a 3/8" NPT to 3/8" barb but you can find them in any combo. Remember to use the correct NPT tap and a little Teflon tape.

The key is to tap the hole progressively larger and test fitting your fitting so that it seals at the angle you want it to. Meaning so that the barb is pointing in the direction you want it to while still sealing properly.

rock861261

What did you guys do if your 3rd gen radiator isnt threaded?

camarotucker

iTrader: (2)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...team-line.html

rock861261

hahaha But Ill still have a big hole in my radiator return port

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Do you have a port just under the overflow port? If you do mine came plugged when I bought it last year. Its a rubber cap with a hose clamp on it. If you need to plug it just use a piece of hose and a bolt in one end with a couple hose clamps.

heres a pic of mine with the 3rd gen rad. Only pic I got at the moment



Heres a pic of the waterpump on the car just got to get a longer hose to connect them

rock861261

Thats what I have there a port im trying to connect it to the steam tube but its unthreaded and I want it to be decent no jb weld lol... I Might try and look for a tee or some kind of reducer

Screamin86

iTrader: (1)

what i did for mine was put a short piece of rubber hose on the port on the rad and put a brass fitting in it with a nipple on it and some clamps and ran my steam line to it. i can get pics if you want.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Here's my idea for it.

I found a tee at the auto parts store that should work nicely. I used a short rubber nipple between it and the radiator, run the steam line to the smaller side and will cap off the other side of the tee. It probably won't look all that great, but should do the job nicely.

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

It will do the job yes and as long as you dont mind the ways it looks who cares. I did mine with the water pump MOD as I cant stand having lines, tubes, wiring ETC going all over the place. It drives me nuts and in my mind makes my motor look cheap. Thats just me and maybe im too **** for my own good

cam-

That vacuum nipple is going to blow off of there the second you make any pressure.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Even with clamps? I'll have to check, but I thought it was a heater hose tee for... "the F word". Um, a Ford product

Screamin86

iTrader: (1)

I'll go get some pics of what I did on mine

Screamin86

iTrader: (1)

here ya go




used something like this

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

that looks like its a pretty solid solution if you dont want to drill the pump for sure.

cam-

The vacuum cap where I put the arrow will blow right off its not going to work. You can either put a bolt into another piece of hose with clamps or get an elbow etc but that little cap will not work

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Oh. Yeah, I just put that cap on there to keep the debris out. I'll put a hose type cap on it when I get it in the car. Thanks for keeping an eye on me though

IrocZ'85

iTrader: (9)

This looks very similar to mine, actually looks better lol. My setup is hideous because we used garden hose fittings/tubing/clamps to reduce it for the steamline....i'm gonna have to change it as it looks rediculous.

Screamin86

iTrader: (1)

Seems to work pretty good so far

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I am going this route.....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Going to thread a hose barb into the side?

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Id like to see how that looks when your done for sure

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Thats the plan...... should be here tomorrow, then I can light this thing finally..

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Ok, here is what I came in the mail from Summit

Autometer radiator hose adapter part #2282 ($50 shipped)

I had to go buy a 3/8 to 1/4 npt adapter, then a 90 to get what you see here. ($15 at Ace Hardware)

then found a suitable place that didn't interfere with my CAI and cut the hose there. I am using the stock 4th gen upper hose. Cut out about 1/2" to get it perfect.

now surprisingly this made filling up motor with coolant very easy. I disconnected the adapter, and just pivoted the upper hose thats still attached to the waterpump straight up, and filled the block. The air came up the steam tube, and once coolant started running out of the adapter, I stopped and connected everything. Added a little more to the radiator and I was done....

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I still had to add some coolant after I fired up the motor..... had to burp the heater core too..... still, a lot easier than the last time I replaced the water pump two years ago or so....

the adapter is above the TB, and it is upstream from the motor too. I am really happy with this so far and it seems to fit a lot better than the ls1 radiator I was using. Just a cleaner look for me.......

Last pic

rock861261

That looks real nice you should get some of those black spring clamps though... Its a great option Its pretty high priced though

IrocZ'85

iTrader: (9)

Nice! i like that, but damn thats pricey :/

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

I like there are a few options now in this thread for everyone to try. I will try to get a pic of mine tonight when I finish it as I just got some line today for it

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Heres mine done. To me its super clean and you wont even see it as thats what I wanted

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Looks good

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

looks similar to mine. I did this when I did the swap. but I had a chunk of brass and made it one piece . I think there was a picture of it in one of the posts

camarodude1988

Hey guys, I am looking at my steam tube options, does drilling and putting a fitting on the water pump actually work? I would think that is creates a mixing flow in the coolant...no?

cowansauto

iTrader: (2)

I saw this on eBay the other day and thought about ordering one. Is it harmful to run this line from one side of the head to the other like this without having to tap into the water pumper or radiator or some other coolant source?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I wouldnt recommend it. Its a steam line to relieve hot spots from the 4 corners of the cyl heads and greatly aids in bleeding the coolant system. It does show some promise in the design

Id grab two of them for a 4 corner setup, then cut and tee the crossover lines. Port it to the WP like shown or radiator

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

This is the best solution, IMO.



Wish I would have know about it before doing my swaps. It's what I'm going to be using in the LS swap in the '57.

redmaroz

iTrader: (4)

I know this is old, but did you still drill and tap your water pump? I like the set up you went with, I just dont want to have to drill into my waterpump if I can avoid it.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Nope, I did not drill my waterpump

I specifically wanted to avoid that route just in case I am out of town with the car and the waterpump craps out on me........ I usually carry enough tools to change a waterpump, but not to drill and tap one.... lol

redmaroz

iTrader: (4)

Haha, I can relate. Where did you connect it at, the throttle body? Thanks.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I used it too, with the optional sight glass: http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Cooling_LSI-tee.html

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I bypassed the TB, and ran the line from the steam line to the upper hose. It is hidden by the CAI pretty well too......

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

If you dont want to drill it then use the radiator port above. If you take the hose off and look inside, most late 3rd gen radiators are threaded inside, so put a barb on and port it there

redmaroz

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I had it narrowed down to 1 or the other, ill probally just use the radiator port and be done. Thanks everyone.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I tapped the bottom of the water outlet by the thermostat, that way the steam is pulled into the radiator and if I need to change the pump, I can do it without having to modify it. Don't need to change the outlet too often. I bent a nice piece of 1/4" stainless tube to go under the TB then down along the WP then down and around the outlet, but behind the nipples for the heater. If you weren't looking for it, you would never know it is there. I wanted to keep from putting another hose/tube to the radiator