KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

Ok so i plan on documenting my swap for education of people who in the future, plan on doing this swap. (even though its been done over and over) I guess another persons perspective cant hurt.

to start, reason for the swap:
driving along I15 in Utah where they are doing road construction, doing about 65-70. I see a large rock in the road and change lanes, too bad a car hit the rock shooting it into my lane, well that ripping a hole in the oil pan and damaged the exhaust. Car ran for about 10min before i noticed oil pressure was dropping

got it home with the help of a friends flat bed, crap! worse than i thought. Oh well, bye bye 305, perfect excuse to to a swap.

March 14th 2011
drove out to pick up my LT1 from a guy parting out a '96 LT1 Trans AM. engine had 70,482 miles on it when he blew a head gasket.

Included in the price, i got the complete 96 LT1 engine, wiring harness, PCM, all front accessories, starter, MAF, elbow, manifolds with O2's.
Price: $600

the car in the garage


the engine


and again

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

the engine, harness and PCM are from a 96 OBDII... debating on either OBDI or OBDII,

i know all about the "cheaper to tune OBDI".. but here are some things to think about:

in UT, OBDII vehicles get a basic "plug in" check for Emissions
I wont be tuning this car, over and over and over with different engine combo's
I like the better computer perameters that OBDII has

i am unsure of how the OBDII will wire into my harness, but since im not doing my own harness, i guess its not a huge issue, but will i need to buy an OBDII ALDL port?


udpdate: currently the i have the intake, and front accessories stripped off.. removing heads to deal with the blown head gasket next, then on to the oil pan to clean it, change the oil pump and replace the oil pan gasket.

should i do the rear main seal too??

72vega

iTrader: (9)

since youre in there, yes. its not hard.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

Ditto. I'd replace all the gaskets while the engine is out of the car. Much easier to do them now than later. I think the auto stores still sell a felpro gasket engine kit.

I'd get the OBDII connector just to make it easier on your emissions guy since its going to be OBDII. I don't think they have an adapter or anything like that.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

just pulled the head off... the one that blew the gasket...

looks like there was some coolant sitting in there a little while.. has etched the cylinder wall... what are my options on cleaning this ? i already scrubbed the wall with a paper shop towel and carb cleaner to try and get some of if off... should i take a hone to it? i can turn the crank and get the piston to BDC on that cylinder and water marks about half way up the cylinder wall.

i really dont want to disassemble the short block

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

i got my oil pan gasket from O'rileys, and its a felpro.

ive heard the rod bearings are a weak point too, but since it has low miles it shouldnt be a problem.
Good luck with the cylinder walls, hopefully its not scarred too deep.

1981LT1

iTrader: (1)

If you can catch your fingernail on it, you need to hone it down. You may be able to hone it with the piston all the way down to clean it up but you need to be careful not to hit the piston and scratch it. You can probably try a scotchbrite pad with some heavyduty cleaner to scrub it off too.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

someone suggested an 0000 steel whool and oil.. will try that first, then if that doesnt work, i'll break out the hone

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

I would use obd II. You are lucky to live in a state where they will do that. In AZ, if the year/model of car had obd I, then you have to hit the dyno.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

well first i rememberd an oil trick for rust.. vinegar.. i got a shop towel, put some vinegar on it, and wiped the rust part to help break it ut. theni used 30wt oil and a mild scotchbrite pad, worked it slowly and wow, worked like a charm, came off very easy.

thanks for the help guys

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

update:

cleaned up the cylinder wall that has the old coolant in it..

put the new head gaskets on, cleaned up the heads, put in new head bolts

removed oil pan, removed rear main seal. Man that rear main seal is a pain the ***. Removing the old paper gasket sucked since i have the engine on the stand, that damn thing was bonded to it. Finally got it all off.

cleaned out the oil pan, had "milk chocolate" in the bottom because of the coolant in the oil. Pan was pretty clean other than that..

im finding im spending most of my time cleaning all the oil and dirt off the engine than i am putting it back together. This thing was WAY dirty. I was using "Gunk degreaser" and even that sometimes was not cutting the real baked on stuff.

here are some pictures from the progress

the tear down


you can see the milk formed on the spyder


head off


water pump and head cleaned


new headgasket on, ready for the head



more pics to come

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

my update:

parts received: AC delete pulley, LT1 TB plate, LS6 behive springs

New parts installed on LT1: oil pan gasket, head gaskets, head bolts

waiting on parts: retainers, locks, LT1 radiator with hoses, various gaskets, vacuum line, fuel lines.

parts still debating on: Cam selection, either LT4 Hot cam or CC502; LTCC opti


things need to do: send out PCM for reflash, pull old engine out, get harness redone, get another O2 bung intalled, get Y pipe made

working on a few other things as well, mostly cosmetic

pictures to come

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

update:

got the engine and trans pulled last night, pulled them together, looks like my TPI had an oil leak that had being going awhile because there was about 1/8" layer of dirt/oil all over the T56... i used about 4 cans of brake clean to take it all off. what a nasty job.

also i took the time to clean the bare engine bay, and paint it flat black. also cleaning all the oily crap off the steering box.. that thing was nasty too.

side note, how the hell are you guys changing motor mounts? ive done them on my LS1 car before, very easy since the K member was tapped.. this damn TPI K member has nutts on the back... who the hell thought that was a good idea??? Stupid GM.. is there a special way of getting to them without having to disassemble the A-arms???

pics of the engine and trans coming out:

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Not an easy way to do it

Use a combo of box end wrench, flexible box end, and socket on a universal joint on a long extension

FWIW, bolts with nuts are a much stronger connection that simply weld nuts on the K-member. Cheaper to manufacture too

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

I hate being a devil's advocate but, if you are using a Felpro head gasket and didn't resurface that head, you are asking for trouble down the road.

As far as the motor mounts....
what he said, get a long extention, 15mm flex socket from under the car reaching up thru the a-frame and have someone turn the bolt from the top.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

why is that? is there a problem with Felpro gaskets? I didnt find much in the way of any other head gasket that is made, other than GM ones.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

ok Don's guilt has gotten to me.. going to pull the heads and have them surface checked.

also, i found i used .049 gasket, when i should have been using the .029 gasket, sooo switching gaskets.

also have my LT4 Hot cam coming in, got the comp 787 retainers and 648 7* locks to use my LS6 beehive springs...

need now to get my 1.6 rr's

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

Update: Got the old motor mounts out, good thing too, they were shot. Put the new ones in, took about 3 hours from start to finish. Used a 6" & 3" extension with the 3" flex, wasnt tooo bad, a few curse words here and there but it could have been worse. Good thing the engine, trans, and everything was out, made it easier

also pulled the old oil pump and shaft. Went with a Melling(155sv) standard volume pump, and an upgraded shaft with the metal sleeve, and new pick up.

some pictures from tonight:




new motor mounts

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I know that someone mentioned the bearings, but I want to reiterate the bearings issue. I just put my LT1 back together. It was a low 73,000 mile motor that was clean inside and out. I pulled a few of the rod bearings off and found that everyone I pulled off was at least to the copper (both sides) and some were past the copper and into the steel.

I pulled the crank and had it polished cause it was groove free, slapped some clevite rod and main bearings in it, and I used the same oil pump you have. Since you are down there, I suggest checking them out.

Fei

I would highly recommend a bearing check just because of the blown head gasket. Antifreeze and bearings don't mix, let alone water isn't that great of a lubricant...

Take a lesson from my pain and suffering and at least give them a look see.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

bearings check out ok... when the head gasket blew, (which wasnt much of a blown gasket, more like a small leak as seen by the gaskets when i took them out).. he pulled right over and stopped the engine.

but thanks for helping me,


Update:
repulled the heads off last night, removed the valve springs and valves... and i just dropped off the heads at C&T machine here in Orem UT to have them cleaned and surface checked (Thanks Don )

Once those come back tonight, things on this project will start going faster since i have the motor mounts ready, oil pump in, cam should be here tomorrow, same with the Skip White roller rockers, LT1 fans and shroud. (already have the LT1 radiator and all hoses.)

things that are ready to go:
Intake is complete & cleaned,
injectors cleaned and assembled on the fuel rail
Optispark is a GM unit, with new cap and rotor
new spark plugs (NGK TR55) ready
spark plug wires are new
new oil pressure sensor(i broke the other one )
LS6 valve springs, comp retainers, locks
Valve seals ready to go on once heads are back
felpro 1074 gaskets ready
intake gasket set ready
new water pump O ring seals and gaskets
Timing chain

pretty much have everything sitting and waiting.

Needs:
Need to send out wiring harness
Need to send out PCM for tune and remove vats, cags, rear O2's and AIR

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

Update:
Heads came back from the shop, no warpage. Awesome.

But they did clean them, and decked them, nice and clean. Now to just clean the valves, put in the valve seals, spring and we can get the show on the road.

Pictures

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

update:

my cam came in, my roller rockers are in... went to assemble the heads only to find out my stock LT1 seats wont work.. they are off by .02... new seats coming









these are from Skip White Performance. 1.6 SA 3/8"

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

another update: removed the AC box, got it out as a complete unit, cleaned and painted the firewall.

engine update: installed the cam, chain and sprocket, reluctor wheel, cleaned and painted the timing cover, installed new seals in it too, change the cap and rotor in the optispark, reinstalled the opti. Installed oil pan and dipstick.

waiting on new seats, which is pretty much holding me up at this point, in finishing the engine..

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Love those rockers.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

thanks, they were not too expensive either, $159 shipped.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

ok new update:

turns out i shouldnt be using the LS6 springs with this cam (XR270HR -218/224 .528/.535 110* LSA), because the seat pressure on the LS6 is at 90# at 1.75 installed height, and i need a minimum of 120#

just ordered comp cams 26918-16 beehive's since i already have the retainers and locks, just need to get the compcams 4705 seats and im good to go..

Klortho

What was the part number for the rockers? I can't find them on their website

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

check Ebay, they sell a lot of their parts on there.. or call them... i saw them on ebay, but someone bought them, called them and they had them.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

update from today, the LT1 radiator and LT1 fans, with LT1 fan holder

i used the 3rdgen rubber bottom supports and the 4thgen top rubber supports.. nope the 4thgen LT1 fans dont hit, barely, but dont hit here is a top picture








understand that its a rough cut on the LT1 holder.. i'll make it nice and straight later. The bolts are in where the factory holes are.

You also need to flip over the holder, and grind off the lip thats on the underside of it, it prohibits the holder from sitting down firmly on the metal. I used a die grinder to make it flat.

i can get a better picture of the fans and the steering box tomorrow.

gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

I've been following this because I have a 92 B4C 1LE (ex-TxDPS car). I have no plans to drop a LT engine in the thing, but found it interesting. When I read that the engine had a leaking head gasket and you just replaced the gasket, I was yelling at the monitor to "check the head!" I am relieved you did that. I also saw the row of stamped steel rockers, and thought how I'd definitely install roller rockers in that. I am see you did that, too. Good.

You may want to try to locate a LT4 knock sensor chip for that engine, as your rollers may make a little more noise that the LT1 sensor may be sensitive to. Additionally, you'll want to replace the Opti, Opti harness, Opti vent hoses and wires before you get the engine in the car. As the owner of 4 LT* cars, trust me on this, YOU DON'T WANT TO INSTALL WIRES ON AN LT* ENGINE IN THE CAR!! I know you're thinking of a LTCC package, but you'll still want a fresh opti in it to start. It's tons easier to do it now.

Cool project, though. Keep up the good work.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

Good tips thanks.. but LT4 knock sensor is really needed since i can desensitize the knock sensor in the tune.. The wires are very easy to get to since im not using the AC and there is physically more room in the thirdgen engine bay than the 4thgen.. im also using hedman headers.. which makes it easier to get to the plugs.

The Opti was a factory GM unit.. and was working fine before pulled from the other car.. but i did change the cap and rotor, and secured the rotor screws with loc-tite and used black silicone to seal the cap. Why would i want to replace the harness and vent hoses? (meaning the the one with the blue 2 blue check valves) check valves wont go bad.. plus a new vacuum line is $85..

i'll be doing the LTCC later in the summer.. all i need is a working optical sensor and im good.

thanks for the help

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE:

over the weekend i received my 1LE A/C delete box, came with motor and the wiring harness.. cleaned it, painted it satin black

Today:

YAY, i finally got my comp cams 26918-16 springs.. got them on ebay, brand new for $150 shipped.. awesome deal.

Also the comp cams 4705-16 seats came in as well. i can finally assemble the heads and get this thing rolling. will start to install tomorrow (too cold here tonight) and have some pictures.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

Updates:

springs and retainers and seats came in
comp cams 918's


comp cams 787 retainers sitting on top




i found that a deep 13mm socket was just right for getting the valve seals on. It helps to put oil on the valve before you put them into the head, make sure you put your seats on before you put the valve seals on.. made that mistake before



this picture is to show a valve seal fully seated (left) and just sitting on the guide (right)

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

more updates from tonight:

decided to put in the 1LE heater box. I do have the 1LE blow motor and 1LE wiring harness for the box, but i didnt want to have to rewire it. so... everyone knows that the stock blower motor basket is too long for the 1LE box. and you cant transfer the baskets over because of the stock rod being too long...

so.. i took the stock blower motor, and cut about 1/2" off the basket with a cutoff wheel.. the tangs are strong enough be left like that, but the motor back into the 1LE box, used my stock wiring harness and stock 4 prong resistor, and 2 prong power plug... DONE.


I also got around to installing the 4thgen washer tank.

What you have to do, is really simple. Unbolt the hatch hold down. 1 bolt attached to the lower radiator support, 2 top bolts on the top radiator support. and 2 bolts that hold the front nose. remove it, and wiggle the tank down, its a TIGHT fit, but you dont have to remove the air dams. Once you get it down and it, just replace the hatch hold down, DONE. You dont have to use the 4thgen support tabs to hold the tank in, because the hatch presses it down pretty tight. but you can if you want. Then just extend the plug to it.. done.



then i was feeling more ambitious and decided to install the 4thgen coolant overflow bottle/battery tray.
for this, i had to make a templete of the round lower body, on paper. i placed the templet on the stock battery tray and used spray paint to mark the area needed to be cut out. I used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel attached, didnt take very long. You also must remove or relocate(better to relocate) the support brace below the tray, its the brace that supports the lower portion of the nose clip.

then drill 2 7/32" holes for the tray hold down and use 1 1/2" self taping screws with 10mm heads to hold down the tray. it sits more in towards the engine bay, but does not interfere with the radiator(also using the LT1 radiator)



just now waiting on my "Tim's Tool" to install the beehive springs on the heads, then things will move a little faster.

I also received back my LT1 PCM from "MadTuner.com" who did the custom tuning for this car. Also waiting on "Pocket" to start my harness.

Wheels should be here this week, REV Classic 100's in charcoal. They are liscensed by American Racing wheels but cost a lot less. 17x9's

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

Nice, keep up the good work. Post some pics of your 4th gen coolant and washer bottles. I used 3rd gen washer and coolant bottles with a 4th gen V6 power steering res and put the PCM under the air filter on the drivers side.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

those pictures are right above your post, are they not showing up for you?

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

Oh, I guess not, on my work computer they have filters that block most pictures out so I cant see them, but they usually come up as red X's when they dont. I will just check it out tonight when I get home.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...eels-just.html

here is the link to my new wheels that just came today.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

update: got my "Tim's Tool" on thursday. Its a valve spring compressor for LT1 and LS1 cars. can also be used on SBC's


this isnt my car, but you can see how it works


now im waiting on my Competition Clutch stage 3 from nopi


then we can drop the engine in..

pics to come

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

update, engine is pretty much complete. I have put the heads on, rockers, intake, the front accessories, and parts of the vacuum lines, as well as the spark plugs and wires.

here is some roller rocker ****... too bad the valve covers have to go on, these look awesome.

these pics were taken before i finished all the other things, engine is basically complete, just waiting on the clutch so i can put that on, then drop this thing in the car.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

nice!!

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

yeah i cant wait for this thing to be done.

update: the rear tires came in.. fronts will be in tomorrow

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

wheels and tires are on the car now, they look awesome, big improvement over the 16's

clutch kit should be here wednesday, then im dropping this thing in.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

Major update: ENGINE IS IN!!

i buttoned up everything on the engine this morning while it was on the stand, got the cherry picker out, and got that thing in there. I did it with the trans separate, just the engine is in now. Had to have my wife do the lowering while i guided the engine mounts, only took me about an hour from start to finish.

Clutch will be here tomorrow, so once that is here, i'll get that on, then the trans. Wont be starting up for a while, waiting on the harness to be finished. Also need to work on the exhaust, need to make a custom Y pipe, have the passenger header drilled and the 2nd O2 bung welded in. then on to the rest of the exhaust

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

Update: Got the flywheel resurfaced, the clutch came in, pulled old pilot bearing

got flywheel on last night, pulling that old pilot bearing was a bastard. The tool from "vatozone" was a tad bit too big, so i tried the grease pack method, didnt work, tried the wet paper towels stuff in there method, didnt work.. i took my dremel and made a small slot in the bearing, then hammered in the tool.. then used the slide hammer to get the damn thing out... finally came out with a few good bangs of the slide hammer... this ordeal took about 2 hours..

got the new pilot BUSHING in... it came with the Competition Clutch. Mounted the flywheel, torqued to 74 ft/lbs... got the disk and pressure plate on, torqued to 15 ft/lbs then turned another 30*'s. Bellhousing went on next, couldnt find a torque spec fort he bellhousing to block.. so i went with 25 ft/lbs. Going to install the trans later on... might be a beeatch doing it 1 man style on my back, but i did it on my LS1 a few years ago, should be the same.

pics

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I ditched my bushing and went with a bearing. You can find people on both sides of that fence.

As far as installing the tranny, it was a two person job for me. I slid the tranny under the car then slid my jack under there and balanced the tranny on the jack (not very easy or safe) and had someone jack it up to hold most of the weight. I then guided it into position untill I got to where I had to finagle the clutch fork. I got that into place and then finished sliding the tranny into place. Getting it smoothly into the throwout bearing is the hardest part since it is a pretty tight fit and you are deealing with angles. I used the jack to keep the tranny up a little while I got the tranny to bellhousing bolts torqued.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

yeah its about the same as the LS1 with the exception of the clutch fork and bearing, im figuring its going to be a beast.

more pics
the engine sitting level with a jack under the pan



the car as it sits


wheels



i'll have better pictures from a real camera later.. these are from my iTouch

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

i now have to figure out this power steering line dilema, ive heard i need to rebend the high pressure side line, its about 4" too short, which "looks" like i could make that up by rebending some bends at or near the pump.

once the trans is in, i'll start on the headers and build the Y pipe.

still trying to decide what muffler to go with. I want to do a 2OTL (2 on the left) like the 4thgen 96-97 SS.. using a magnaflow muffler, or i could just go conventional and do 1 tail pipe on each side, but i want something different.

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I let my engine hang down in the rear. I put a jack under the oil pan to control the angle ofthe engine while I raised and guided the transmission. With both jacks it gets crowded in a hurry and makes lining up the clutch fork harder.

My power steering line is two factory lines combined. I run a hydroboost. Bending the line is not too bad. Just dont try sharp bends or it will kink the line.