Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Im currently working on converting my 6.0L L92 carb motor to fuel injection. The harness is from a 00 camaro, and will only be used for the fuel injection because i am running a 700R-4. I have an LS3 intake, rails, and injectors for the swap. I just ordered a walbro 255 inline pump, corvette regulator, and edelbrock ported 90mm throttle body, they should all be in this week.

The motor is an LQ4 with arp rod bolts,L92 heads, and a patrick G cam. My goal for the swap is to get some better gas mileage and hopefully get back some of the low end power that was lost when i was using the single plane carb setup.

If you guys have any suggestions or comments they would be greatly appreciated. This is my first fuel injection swap but i do have a quite a bit of wiring experience so hopefully everything will go smoothly

This is the car, 86 iroc


The old carb setup(sorry for the cell phone pic)


The LS3 intake just sitting on the motor


I will be using the L92 waterpump so the neck will clear the throttle body


Edelbrock ported 90mm throttle body


Ill be updating with some lots pics of the harness, fuel system, etc. when the parts start flowing in.

Does anyone know what upper radiator hose to use with that water pump??

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Have you looked into the '10 Camaro water pump? The outlet is on the other side and out of the way of the TB.

I believe both the L92 and '10 Camaro water pump are the "long" version to clear the VVT stuff behind it. The belt should still contact the pulley, but it won't be centered on the pulley.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

I do not believe that the LS3 water pump is the "long" style. My understanding is that the Camaro and Corvette use the same water pump, and it's the short style. I've looked into this water pump for my car and determined that in order to run it, I'd have to buy the spacers that go between it and the block.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I haven't physically seen any except f-body LS1, LQ4, and L92, but I was under the impression the L92 and LS3 had to clear VVT. But, wouldn't surprise me if I had it wrong.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

The 09+ LS3 water pump (which is the one that's got the water neck on the driver side) comes on the CTS-V, the G8, the Corvette and the LS3/L99 Camaros. It's a short design.

Here's the best pic I have on my PC, but it shows the shallow design:

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

I need to keep the truck spacing for my accessories so i think the truck L92 pump is my best option. I just need to piece together an upper radiator hose. I might have to use half of a hose like this and reuse the other half that is already on my car.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

I am hoping that all my parts come in on Friday so can work on the fuel system and get most of the wiring finished up this weekend. I should be getting my fuel pump, regulator, o2 sensors, ls3 injector plugs, and throttle body.

I ordered denso o2 sensors from rock auto. I was told that denso makes the o2 sensors for acdelco. So they should be the same as the delcos just a different box more or less. Does anyone know if that is true. What experience do you guys have with the o2's on an LS.

Also i know that injector wires are touchy with the resistance and everything. Is it ok to just cut the old style connectors off and solder the new style injector plugs on?

One more thing, i have the coolant crossover that goes to the rear of the heads also. I would like to keep using it to avoid hot spots in the back cylinders. Is it possible to use that with the LS3 intake? I did test fit and the crossover definately hits on some of the bottom webbing of the intake but i think it might be possible to notch it to fit. Anybody tried this?

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Keep in mind that the truck water pump is the same as the f-body water pump... it's just the position of the upper neck and the pulley that's different. If you can get an f-body pump, you can swap the pulley over, and take advantage of the better upper neck location.

Another option that would probably be simpler if you don't have the stuff necessary to swap pullies is to get an early f-body water pump that had a bolt-on pulley and use a spacer between the pulley & the impeller mount. Likewise, some of the aftermarket pumps like the Edelbrock have a bolt-on pulley that you could space out. Another option is to use the f-body pump with the water pump spacers.

Lots of options that would probably make your life easier than trying to deal with the truck-style upper hose connection.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Update:

Worked some more on the wiring this weekend. I had cut the old injector plugs off the harness and solder on the ls3 style plugs and lengthen the map sensor wiring because the ls3 intake has the map sensor on the front of the intake. The passenger side wiring is done but i ran out of time for the drivers side.

Here are some pics of the routing into the car through the hole in the fire wall.





The new ported 90mm throttle body showed up and i was pretty impressed


I had to notch the water pump to try and clear the throttle body but it still doesn't quite have enough clearance. So i guess i will just have to get an f-body water pump and use the water pump spacers. Next weekend ill take a good picture of the notch i made in the water pump but here is the basic idea.




I got my inline walbro 255 pump mounted and wired up. Next weekend ill get the corvette regulator mounted and hopefully get the fuel lines run and take some pics of both.

Also, a friend of mine is converting his ls6 to a carburetor so i trade him my 4 leg coolant crossover and valley cover plate for his ls6 valley cover, front coolant crossover, and rear block-offs.

Klortho

You shouldn't need spacers for the f-body waterpump. It doesn't have the outlet coming out of the top but through the front of the pump and is made different than the truck pump.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Yeah i need the spacers because i made all my accessory brackets to fit with the truck spacing.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

The new style truck pump is different than the f-body pump, but the old one is the exact same aluminum casting. The only difference is that they move the outlet location and run a different pulley.

I've got a truck pump (2003 LQ9) and an f-body pump at home that I've examined and even taken apart. They're the exact same casting.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the castings are the exact same so i was even considering having a friend tig weld an outlet in the f-body location. But then if the pump ever fails i will have to have that done again. where if i just use a stock f-body pump and space it out, then if it ever fails i just have to get a new f-body pump.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Had some time over thanksgiving break to get some more work done on the car. I finished up the fuel system, finished wiring up the LS3 injector plugs, and took some pics of my failed water pump attempt.

Fuel System pics:


Walbro 255 inline pump mounted vertically by the fuel tank.


Corvette fuel filter/regulator mounted in the stock location


Different angle. I just used 5/16 rubber fuel line for the return to avoid buying any more expensive fittings.


The fuel line comes out in the drivers side corner of the engine bay through a hole i drilled. Ill probably put some conduit over the line to hide it a bit more. Then under the brake booster and over to the fuel rail with a 90 degree fitting.

Wiring pics:


The new LS3 injector plugs are wired into the harness and it is nicely tucked away. (sorry for the blurry pic)


A closer shot of the passenger side. I had to lengthen the MAP sensor wiring because the map sensor is a the front of the LS3 intake instead of the back like the LS1. You can just barely see the map sensor plug on the right side of the photo.

Failed water pump attempt:





This was my attempt to use an L92/LY6 truck water pump to clear the throttle body. I had to notch the corner on the neck but it didnt end up fitting in the end. I have been told that this will work with some throttle bodies and not others. So for the record it doesnt work with the edelbrock 90mm.

I just gave in and ended up ordering an ls1 water pump and some water pump spacers.

Should have some more updates in the next few days.

Falconiroc

You can use the L99 Water pump from a 5th Gen Camaro and retain your Truck Accessory spacing. The only exception in it is that you need to use the 5th Gen Camaro tensioner as well because the mount for the tensioner is further out on the Camaro. I've seen examples of it on LS1Tech.com, it works like a charm. If I end up going the truck motor route, I am likely going to do that.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

I considered that route but i wasnt sure if the neck on the opposite side would clear my custom accessory brackets.

Falconiroc

Good point, I guess I didn't think about that.The Accessory drive has been on my mind the last few days, as we are prepping for our swap and I'm not entirely sure what route of LS motor we're going for, it really depends on the availability of a T56 donor car here in AZ at the auctions.

I'm very curious how your swap ends up with the accessories, so keep the updates coming! Good luck and good work so far!

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the complements hopefully some of this info will help.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

I got my water pump and water pump spacers in the mail. In the end im glad i had to use the f-body pump because it allows the radiator hose to be hidden under the intake piping instead of being clearly visible with the truck pump.


Ebay water pump spacers and some M8 100mm long bolt from Fastenal.


I decided to drill and tap the passenger side spacer for my water temp sensor. I think this location should give me a decent reading for my gauge. The sensor used to be drilled and tapped into my truck water pump but i didn't want to do that to the brand new water pump for warranty reasons.


Just a pic on the spacers installed


The water temp. sensor located on the passenger side.


The belt should line up nicely with the spacers. I still need to get a tensioner because i didnt realize the f-body tensioner was different than the truck tensioner.


I used an f-body radiator hose and spliced in a piece of pipe that i drilled and tapped a fitting in for the steam tube.


Just a picture to show that i now have pleanty clearance for my throttle body


Overall im pretty satisfied with the way the whole water pump situation turned out. I plan on painting the pump and spacers black and the water pump pulley the same orange that is on the valve covers (my truck pump was painted that way and i really liked it). I hope to be finishing the wiring harness tomorrow and should be posting up some more pics of that and hopefully a painted water pump.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Also i got that ls6 valley cover on a trade and i think the pcv valve is built into that tray that bolts under it. So do i just need to connect the line that come out of the front of the valley cover to a vacuum source. Can anybody confirm this.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

I made some progress on the wiring yesterday. I pulled the harness back out of the car and wired in a fuse/relay box near the pcm connectors. The box is the underhood box out of a lumina. I cut the box in half and switched some of the pins around to my liking. I ended up using it to fuse each injector bank, fuse the o2/maf, and house the fuel pump relay.


Nearly finished harness. I just have to finish the maf and iat wiring once i get the maf on the car.


This is the lumina fuse/relay box that i cut in half. It will be located under the dash next to the pcm.


The new style injector plug to run the ls3 injectors.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Update:

I made a little progress over the weekend. I got the wiring harness put back into the car and got the fan, fuel pump, obd2, check engine light, and all the power wires wired to the car. I also got my intake couplers in the mail from hose techniques. I should be getting my computer, MAF, and intake tubing the middle of next week. I believe those should be the last of the parts i need.

Once everything comes in i will post some pictures of my cold air intake and then hopefully the final product.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Update:

Good news. I finally got my computer back from speed inc a couple days before new years so i got it installed and got the car running. Everything turn out great with the install and my local drag strip was even open on new years day for what they call "Hangover Fest." My car was the fastest one there running 12.2 at 118 mph on my street tires. This was the first year that i have actually had my project done before hangover fest so i had to take it out. Let me tell you 18 degrees and windy is not the best conditions to be out at the drag strip all day in car with no heat .


I was thinking about running the intake tubing to the passenger side but it interfered with the coolant tank to radiator hose and i didnt link the look as much.


I ended up running the intake to the drivers side and still need to paint the second intake tube black.


Here is a picture of the finished product.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Here a couple of chessy videos i took for anyone that wants to see the finished product.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrAiA-MRzCE


Also if there anyway to make the videos viewable right here on the site or can we only post the links for them?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Your swap looks FANTASTIC! And it sounds great. Im starting to like the PatG cams...and might have to go to him when its time.

Exaust sounds great with the cut outs open and with em closed!

Good work!

J.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. Im pretty happy with the way it turned out. The only thing i dont like is that i just checked my gas milage when i filled up and im only getting about 14 mpg, which is what i got with the carb. Im guessing speed inc probably tuned it rich because its a mail order tune.

I do like the patrick g cam and it costs about the same as any off the shelf cam. Patrick just comes up with the specs then it was actually made by EPS.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

18 and windy is like a decent summer day here lol.... right now it's like -5 degrees and windy in Montreal with tons of snow everywhere! But I have heat thankfully lol..

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Damn that would suck you need to move down here for a while to warm up. For some reason when i built my car i took the heat out and iv been kicking myself ever since.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Yeah last year i went to LA and Florida a couple of times.. I love the weather down south!

How come you don't put the heat back in tho?

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Well i welded the holes shut and bondo'ed the firewall smooth. But i have been thinking about just putting a heater core in the car with a small fan on it. Once the salt gets on the roads i dont usually drive it anyways so the heat would only really come in handy only a few months each year.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I guess, plus it's less weight. I just realized you were talking about fahrenheit! oops! I was talking in celcius.. so my temp would probably be around the same as yours but i don't drive my car below 32 degrees fahrenheit (that is 0 degrees celcius). I can't imagine driving in this weather without the heater!! You gotta fix it up if you drive in this cold weather.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

haha oh yeah i didn't even think to specify. Yeah it was cold, I was out in it for about 5 hours that day.

Thridgen60

iTrader: (2)

Well iv had this price list laying here for everything i bought for this carb to fuel injection swap so i figured i would post up what it cost to do it.

-LS3 Intake, Injectors, & Rail $215 (ebay)
-Walbro 255 inline fuel pump $100 (ebay)
-Fuel fittings $60 (Summit)
-Corvette filter/regulator $32.79 (rock auto)
-00 Camaro Harness $100 (friend)
-LS3 injector Plugs $30 (ebay)
-ECU $35 (junk yard)
-Mail Order Tune $150 (speed inc)
-Ported Edelbrck 90mm TB $250 (ls1tech)
-Throttle body gasket $20 (rock auto)
-Oxygen sensors delcos $110 (auto parts store)
-Intake Piping, couplers & filter $202 (Summit & intakehoses.com)
-Throttle cable $5 (junk yard)
-85mm truck MAF $25 (junk yard)
-F-body waterpump $100 (rock auto)
-Waterpump spacers $90 (ebay)

TOTAL= $1524.79


Carburated Parts that i sold

Carb Intake $315 (Paid $320 new)
MSD 6010 $275 (Paid $315 new)
Demon Carb $360 (Paid $550 new)
Fuel Pump & Reg $50 (Paid $120 new)
Air Cleaner Assem $50 (Paid $100 new)
Carb spacer $20 (Paid $30 new)

TOTAL= $1070 TOTAL NEW= $1435


So with everything figured up it cost me about $450 dollars to convert from my carb setup to fuel injection. I also included what all the carb parts cost me new to show that it really isnt any cheaper than fuel injection if you dont already own all the carb parts(which i already did). Hopefully some good info for somebody out there.