jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Thought I would post some pics of my ongoing swap. It won't be done until spring but I've started making some progress. Here is the last pic of my trusty ole 383 before it was pulled and sold. I hated selling it, it took 8 years of abuse with no major carnage other than a spun bearing a few years back and was running better than ever when sold.

I bought the LQ4 in the next pic to use the block. I took the LQ4 down to the bare block and sold off all the extra parts that I don't need.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Heres the empty engine bay. Doesn't look too bad but I did some clean up before installing the new k-member. I painted the inner frame(down by the steering box), the paint was starting to crack there. I also cleaned and painted the trans tunnel , I had never cleaned it before so it had many years of gunk built up on it.
Got the new Spohn K-Member installed. Bolted right in with no issues.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I got the Spohn coil overs and A-Arms installed with no problems. I probably should have taken the spindles off and painted them too but I'm too lazy at the moment.

Here is some interesting info on the weight of the Spohn parts vs. stock.



A-Arms: Spohn 20.0, GM 30.8
Upper Strut Mounts: Spohn 16.4, GM 8.0
K-Member w/ motor mounts: Spohn 37.4, GM 51.2
Springs: Spohn 10.2, GM 23.0
Spohn Total 84.0
GM total 113.0

*Total weight savings 29lbs

daddy33

iTrader: (5)

Nice work man, i'm also doing the same setup in my '85. Just got the stroker kit from TSp actually. What setup are you going with on the motor? Engine bay looks good, im gonna POR-15 mine pretty soon.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Here are the basics of my combo:
408CID 11.5:1 compression
Forged Callies Compstar rotating assembly
Trick Flow as cast 220cc heads (will be hand ported, I'll post the flow #'s when they are done)
Jesel Sportsman Shaft mounted rockers
Crower HIPPO mechanical roller lifters
Victor Jr Intake manifold (ported)
Custom grind mechanical roller cam(I'll get it speced once I have the flow#'s from the heads)

I'm hoping it will run in the low 10's N/A on pump gas once I get it tuned well. I've always been a big fan of N/A pump gas cars that are driven to the track. I'm excited to finally be putting this thing together, I've been planning it for awhile now and accumulating parts. I've got most of the small stuff bought, coil packs, MSD 6010, water pump, alternator, cam sensor, crank sensor etc. The engine is at the machine shop right now, if I have the funds I may get it dynoed once its together.

daddy33

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like a killer setup, low 10's look good. I'm going with TEA stage 3 heads and TR v.3 stroker cam, also hoping for some high-mid 10's N/A. Just like you said, nothing feels better with a N/A setup. Good luck on your build!!!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, Sounds like you are putting together a nice combo too. Let me know how it turns out.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i'm very excited that you're doing this swap!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I'm excited too, I hope this combo runs as good as I think it will. If the heads flow like I'm hoping it should run awesome. My orginal plan was to get some TEA CNC ported 235cc trick flow heads. The machine shop I'm using prefered to do the porting themselves so they know exactly what they have and can adjust accordingly. Its hard to beat CNC ported heads but there is always something to be gained with an experienced hand porter. They do great work, they did the port work on my Dart Pro 1 SBC heads so I don't think it should be a problem. They were very confident they could match or beat the performance of the TEA heads and would set it up with the correct springs and valves for my combination for the same price so I went that route.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I made a little more progress last night. I got the rest of the front suspension and steering assembled last night. The alignment is way off. I marked the upper strut mounts and put them back exactly as they were and I didn't adjust the tie rods at all. With the steering wheel centered the drivers side wheel is turning slightly left while the passenger wheel is turning slightly right. I need to do some adjustment by sight just to get it close enough for driving to the alignment shop once I get it running. I think the Spohn K-Member and Arms set the front wheels back about 1/2in. too.

If I get more time I may paint the rest of the trans tunnel and underside of the car, looks kinda funny like it is but nobody would know the difference.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Very interested in your swap... You seem to be doing great work so far. Engine bay/suspension looks great.

Im toying with the 408 idea myself. Kind of tossing around a few ideas actually...so Im anxious to see how you make out with your set up!

J.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

jbenge, what's the car weigh?

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

It used to weigh 3250 with about 1/2 tank of gas with the old SBC and I weigh about 150 so 3400 total. Since then I've put in the Kirkey seats and tubular k-member so I've probably dropped 60-70 pounds total but the 6.0L block weighs more than a SBC. Anyone know how much more the 6.0L block weighs than a production 350 block?

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

I don't think the difference is significant. I think it's small enough that a plastic intake would make up for the difference, but since you're running a victor...

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Im pretty sure the LSx block weighs less than the SBC. My bird raised 3" up front swapping from 305 to 5.3

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

from an iron headed sbc to an aluminum headed lsx i'd say yes, it's lighter. but an aluminum headed sbc to an aluminum headed lsx, i think the lsx is a bit heavier.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I ran into a few delays with my engine but finally got it back from the machine shop today. I made a few minor changes to the combination. The ports on the Vic Jr. were too small for my combo so I upraded to a Super Victor. I hope the Super Victor will clear my 2 1/2in hood with a 3in drop base air cleaner.

Also went with T&D shaft mounted rockers instead of the Jesels. The Sportman series jesels aren't adjustable so I went with T&D instead. The T&D rockers were on backorder so it took awhile to get them.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Heads are hand ported TFS 220cc, after porting they are about 235cc. Intake valve is 2.055 and Exhaust valve is 1.600. Flow #'s are all relative so they don't mean a whole lot but I will post them. Test bore is 4.03, test pressure 28".

lift INT/EX
.100 65/80
.200 136/103
.300 212/170
.400 265/208
.500 305/227
.600 332/244
.700 349/253

My head porter actually prefers the L92 castings, he has had great success with them. You can't beat the bang for buck with the L92 heads. I almost went with them instead but I've seen a lot more people going fast with the TFS heads. It seems there are more and more good L92 combo's being built all the time though.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

the tfs heads are nasty...you're going to have a monster...bottom 10's, no problem...that thing should run 9's with the rest of the car up to par.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

sweet man!!!!
as for the spohn k member. that bugger is heavy. my PA is only 21 pounds. it may not be road race worthy, but gets down the dragstrip and from redlight to redlight just fine.
with the solid roller, i would have used a larger head, but i think it will still make great power and not have to rev it to get all the power out of it.
bottom 10's should be a no brainer. i went 10.08 on 7 cylinders. haha.
everything is looking pretty good.
what headers do you plan to run?

daddy33

iTrader: (5)

Damn man everything looks pretty sweet! That is one stout motor for sure. My TEA ported AFR heads flow just about similar. Hopefully my 408 will be somewhat like yours. Keep up posted on anything else you do. Oh, and do you know how much your car weighs?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Looks good thus far, curious to how it'll run. Maybe someday I'll step up the cubes too and try one of these out. Although those 416 L92 combos have been looking mighty nice lately to me, just can't imagine spending the bucks when 6.0L out of junkyards are so cheap, it'd be the same as buying 6 motors.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

The one thing I should have done when rebuildling my 6.0 block was stroking it. I didn't do that...I wish I would have though, maybe one day I'll just sell my block and get a Warhawk block or something outrageous

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I bought the Hawks 2in headers when they had a sale around christmas time.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

It should weigh about 3200lbs with the weight reduction and 3350 with me in it. I'll weigh it once I get it back to the track. One of these days I need to put some effort into weight reduction, I really haven't done much other than the real easy basic stuff.

Now I need to figure out where I want to buy a torque converter from. I've sent my info to Ultimate Converter Concepts, Yank, and Circle D to see what they say. Anyone else you guys recommend? Coan is local so they are always tempting to use but their customer service isn't too great.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I like my PTC converter.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

ohhhhh. nice!
hope the 2" have better clearance around the torque arm than the 1 3/4 versions.
eek.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

With the ice storm keeping me home the past couple of days I've had some time to mock up the accessories on the engine.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Here is a couple pics of the Hawks 2in headers if any of you were curious about how they were made. Hopefully they they will fit as good as they look.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

This is the machine head alternator kit that Speed Inc. sells. I had to grind down some of the ribs on the back of the alternator to get it to clear the head. Its close but it does clear by about an 1/8in. The alternator will clear factory heads but some aftermarket castings are thicker and will interfere.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

lookin' good! now get it in the car!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I know...lol I need to figure out which torque converter I want to buy first. I've talked to several places now, just need to make the final decision.

I went to put in the temperature sensor and found that the autometer adapter fitting isn't big enough to fit the end of the sensor through. So I drilled it out and installed it. It broke off in the head. It must have weakend it when I drilled it out, I didn't tighen it very much when it broke. Luckily I was able to get it out with no damage done.

What are you guys using to adapt the metric hole in the head to the NPT theads of the temp sensor?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Nothing

The 98 Fbody LS1 CTS has the CTS function for the PCM along with an analog gauge sender. It does all this and fits the stock hole on the LSx heads

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i did the exact same thing with my autometer adapter....i drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT hole in the top of the water pump and put the sender in there.

pocket, is the ohm value for that CTS the same as for an autometer gauge like jbenge is running?

90-irocdx3

iTrader: (4)

you will like the 2" headers, they are easy to install as well. Just make sure you put one bolt to one motor mount in, then jack the motor up. Just do the same thing on the other side too. The 2" headers look nice when it's sitting in your car. I havent installed the o2 sensors yet on mine,but it looks tight.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

you have to be gentle when tightening that thing, it doesn't take much at all to make it a leak proof install. Other option is machining that sender body down, there's a few guys on tech that do it for a fee.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

did you install both pieces in a vise and then into the motor as one?
this is a fool proof way, imo. if you install the adapter in the head, then the sensor into it, it breaks everytime ive seen it done that way.

your pics and your parts look top notch. makes me feel like mine is second class.
keep 'um commin'!!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I installed the adapter fitting by itself when it broke. Sounds like I need to buy another one and put the sensor into the adapter first. I didn't think it would be that fragile.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

when you drill it out it's very thin, just have to be gentle with it and have both pieces together before install. Then install it by hand and then rotate it slightly when tight with a wrench, you'll feel the copper washer crush....then stop. or snap again

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

After contacting several torque converter manufacturers I had 8, 9, and 9.5inch converters recommended and stall speed ranging from 4400-5400. I also figured out that some companies call a 230mm converter a 8in while others call it a 9in.

I ended up ordering a 5000 stall 230mm Circle D. I was impressed with the attention to detail in trying to get the stall matched to my combination so I went with them. Ultimate Converter Concepts was a close 2nd...I'm sure I would have been happy with either one.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I got the transmission mated up to the engine today. I had to buy some allen head bellhousing bolts because the metric bolts heads were bigger than the standard ones on my SBC, the metric ones wouldn't clear the csr shield.

I'm using the TCI sfi approved flexplate, it came with 8.8 grade torque converter bolts. The torque converter came with 10.9 grade bolts but those were too short(made for a stock thickness flexplate). Anyone see anything wrong with using 8.8 grade bolts? I'm sure they are fine since they came with the flexplate but thought I would ask. I would hate to use a weaker bolt and have it them break.

Hopefully I'll be dropping the engine in next weekend.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

please do not use 8.8 property class bolts on your flexplate. john deere or a CAT dealer will have the correct bolts in the 10.9 property class.

if you have to shim it with washers, or use any washers at all, they must be grade 8 or property class 10.9 if they are metric.

i am not a fan of allen headed bolts for the transmission.
hardware store bolts will have a 17mm head, even the reduced head flange bolts offered will still have a 15mm head, which still isnt optimal.

order some bolts for an ls1 f body from the dealer or pick some up used. they only have a 13mm head. i had some stock ones laying around that had the extra stud sticking out of the head for extra hardware. if yours comes this way just cut the small studd off the top of the head. (think coil pack bracket bolts)
those dang allen heads will be the death for taking out the tranny with the motor in.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

your torque converter bolts aren't 7/16" bolts?

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I talked to chris at Circle D and he is sending me some 10.9 grade bolts at no charge...great customer service! I didn't want to have to worry about the bolts breaking...10.9 was definately the way to go. You would think TCI would send 10.9 bolts with their flexplate.

With the csr shield I can't get the bell housing bolts out anyway with the engine in the car. The bolt heads are almost against the firewall and with the extra length to go through the shield and through the metal flange at the top you can't get them out. I've found its easier to just pull the engine and trans together. Major PIA factor with the shield. I hate dealing with the shield but it if it keeps me safe its worth it. Makes me also wonder how well a th-400 would fit with a shield since the th-350 is smaller? My th-350 is well built but I'm not sure how much abuse it can take, I'll probably need to upgrade to a th-400 soon.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

xpndbl3
My converter uses metric bolts. It uses the LS flexplate and has the longer snout so I don't need a spacer either. You must be using a standard th-350/400 converter?

stage20

iTrader: (3)

my yank uses 7/16, but it was built for my old small block.

on the shield, if you can off the coin for it, there is a company that builds a carbon fiber shield.....
its light, and shaped to fit the bellhousing, so no big junk in the way.
only problem is that its 350-400 bucks.
you can buy an ultra bell for that.

looks like you are on road, just want to make sure youre in the right lane.

White'89

iTrader: (8)

A SBC looks good on a stand. An LSx looks good in a car.

daddy33

iTrader: (5)

Man I cant wait to see this car up and running. That scatter shied does sound like a PIA, but for safety thats the price. Keep the pics coming, its looking good.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I always appreciate the input. I probably would be putting a big block in if I hadn't talked to you about your combo The carbon fiber shield you are speaking of is the one that I have. It fits well compared to the others on the market but its still a major PIA.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

man i can't wait to hear some numbers from you!