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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
C207/C221
3rd gen under dash connectors, these contain most of the fuse wires and a few gauge functions like MIL and speedo
Left is dash side C207, notice its two connectors. Middle C221 (if equipped), right engine side C207
Here is some info for future reference... I needed terminals for the c221 connector, and Pocket provided me the PNs...
Note: C221 is located at the ECM, 2x3 = 6 cavity connector. It contains 2x power for injectors, and backup lights for manual trans only. This applies to 87 model year, and possibly other years as well.
They're delphi unsealed 280 series female(engine side) male(dash side) terminals for 18ga wire. Various mfrs sell them. For such a short order, Id go with ebay.
GM Metri-Pack 280 Series Terminals Connectors 14-18 Ga.
Female #12110844
Male # 12020116
Can someone go through step by step on ac wiring. I got an 88 camaro, carbed and would like to know how to hook up ac. With Carb, ECU removed so green wire is not used.
Thank you so much for documenting some connector types. Those stupid inline Pack-Con I connectors are just dangerous. The terminals flop around in them so much. They're so easy to get exposed on something grounded. I will be replacing mine with the Metri-Pack round connectors. The only sucky part is how expensive the crimpers are. I hope I get what I pay for, because I don't want some cheap marked-up POS that's not gonna make good crimps, especially on 12-10 gauge wire.
The only sucky part is how expensive the crimpers are. I hope I get what I pay for, because I don't want some cheap marked-up POS that's not gonna make good crimps, especially on 12-10 gauge wire.
I have the Delphi ratcheting metripack crimp tool. It makes excellent crimps on the wire and seals. It is a lifetime tool, not something I will have to replace.
However, it is not quite big enough for 12 and 10 AWG wire, but I make it work by only crimping part way and then opening it up by hand. Definitely recommend a proper Metripack 280 crimper if you have a lot of that size wire to do. Also, you will have to fold (double up) 18 AWG wire or the wire will slip out of the crimp. The tool clearly works best on 14 and 16 AWG wire size.
If a wire slips out of a terminal, you're using the wrong terminal. I had to order 2 different sizes when switching my radio wiring over to the newer Metri-pack connectors. Doubling it up so that the conductor gets crimped means that the strain relief portion isn't going to be doing its job.
If your terminal is too big for the wire, usually it will crumple up and make a bad crimp. They can slip out, but usually a deformed terminal is the main outcome. Wire slipping out of a terminal is usually a bad tool or using too large a die in your tool. The cheap delphi tool is bad about this. Here are the tools I use
Left two are depinning tools. Left has about 1/4" broken off the tip to depin larger terminals (480, 630), right is intact
Barrel tool for weather pack terminals and a jewlers screwdriver to pop open hinged connectors
Top is harbor freight special strippers. Spring loaded, ergo friendly, super sharp, prefer these over my Klein strippers
Next is a Klein cast iron barrel connector crimper/snip. This gets minimal use because barrel bullets and ends are rare for what I do
Bottom two cover 98% of my crimps. Top is an unsealed version that is good for the larger 12ga terminals (C100, 630's, rings etc)
Bottom sealed 150/280 terminals which are 75% of the harness
Both are spring loaded which helps my hands from cramping from the 600-1000 crimps Ill do in a day
You can spot a good tool by how it crimps. You want the crimp action to bottom out on the wire. After you crimp something, hold the tool and terminal up to the light. If you can see light through the jaw of the tool, its a good crimp. Cheaper tools often bottom out on the jaws so the terminal never fully clamps down on the wire. This leads to the cable pulling out unexpectedly. The cheap crimpers usually bottom out on the nub at the tip. Filing the tip down helps but isnt a complete solution
This is the cheap tool. Easy to spot with the scissors action to keep the jaws parallel and no return spring. Looking over the link I can say with confidence that they will NOT crimp 20-24ga terminals at all. Ive used the tool at work with 18ga wire/terminals and they occasionally pull out when used in the smallest setting. For someone who may repair a handful of connectors in a years time, this tool is good for the money. Beyond that Id look elsewhere http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRIPACK-WE...IAAOSw2s1UvzjP
Sorry to dig this up from the grave. I'm going with an Edelbrock fuel injection and I'm redoing the harness. What is the best way to get away from having these connectors burning up? Fuse center? Thanks!
So basically those connectors that burn up are drawing too much power where as a relay would solve it. The reason I asked is that the cooling fans have relays but the connectors aren't happy. Someone mentioned a fuse center in the post after. Thanks.
If GM used a larger or heavier connector at harness points it wouldn't be an issue would it. Would an upgraded connector solve the burnt connector issue? Seems like it would.
If GM used a larger or heavier connector at harness points it wouldn't be an issue would it. Would an upgraded connector solve the burnt connector issue? Seems like it would.
Which Connector?
Options are available for up to 250A per Terminal.
If GM used a larger or heavier connector at harness points it wouldn't be an issue would it. Would an upgraded connector solve the burnt connector issue? Seems like it would.
Yeah, there was some "oops" to the original design and the pre-MetriPack connectors. Engine heat, electrical heat, and age shrinks the insulation covering the wires to the Fuel Pump Relay, exposing the copper to the elements (humidity, road splash, spraying water to wash under the hood, etc) which corrodes the wire, making everything worse.
If you want to stick with factory style relays, the parts/relay pictured above is the improvement done for the 89+ models (90-92 according to EFI's site). If you don't want to track down all the individual parts, EFIConnection has it prepackaged with the pigtail for $20 and the relay for $17.50.
If you want to go aftermarket, the sky and your imagination are the limits.
07-12-2015, 07:59 PM
