Dale

iTrader: (12)

Ok, yes I have searched and I'm getting several answers. I have installed basically LSX wiring into my car. I removed the buffer box and hooked c2-50 into my tan wire going to the cluster. I get nothing.

Searches have shown many different things. Some say this alone worked. One said they had to jump 2 wires(but didnt say what 2). What needs to be done to get this to work? My car orginally was a TBI.

Among these, I read that the cruise output wires must not work for the 3rd gen. One suggested getting a 4th gen cruise box? Is that the best solution?


Thanks for any responses.

Klortho

4th gen cruise control box is the best way, that way the PCM controls the cruise control. As for the speedo, you have to make sure it is hooked into the wire that originally was the 4000ppm output coming from the buffer box, it may be tan, it may be green/white.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

That is how I have the speedo hooked up... unless I have a bad connection.

4th gen cruise it is then. Can someone tell me the location of it on a 4th gen, Link to wire diagam. Maybe a picture of what it looks like? Any info on it would be helpful.

Maybe having the pcm hooked up to the 3rdgen cruise could be causing back-feed or something into the system causing speedo not to work???????

cam-

Not that I'm running a stock speedo but I had to put a small 10K resistor from +ign inline with my speedo feed to boost the signal enough so my speedo could read it. Worked fine for me

Klortho

Yeah, hook the VSS output wire coming from the LS1 harness directly into the wire going to the speedo.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

So 2 ppl are saying just hook it up directly and it works fine. I either have a bad connection or something not set right in the ECM. Wasnt able to look at that last night so hopefully tonight.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Ok, I have verified it is red50, I have connecting to wire c of the 5 wire plug. It is making contact via ohming the wire out. Still not working.

Attached is a screen shot from efilive. Can someone look to see if I have something set wrong.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

I see you have efilive, do you show a speedo signal on the scan data while driving?

what year ls1/pcm are you using? the ls1 camaro from the few years I did check is green/white speedo wire.


the cruise again will depend in the year you have for a pcm. 1998 has it's own which does not need or use the pcm signal

the 1999-2002 use one that req. the signals from the pcm.


your best bet is to get a cruise from a truck or van that does not use the pcm signals (unless you want the pcm to disable the cruise if you have a current missfire)

the cables interchange between all of these. just get the cable made for your year TB and the rest will fit.




there is a great sticky on the cruise control at

http://ls1tech.com/forums/index.php?

under the hybrid section

this is the post..... http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=790188

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I have only scanned once, dont remember if the speedo was working or not. Going to scan again on the way to work this morning.

PCM is a 2002 with L31 coding

Will look at them threads at lunch today, thanks

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I reviewed my first log, and the speedo gauge is not moving. But then that is not one of the pids I selected. Will it still show on the dashboard if its not selected?

bingo

iTrader: (2)

Are you sure your speed sensor is good?

Dale

iTrader: (12)

worked before the wiring swap.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I did a data log at lunch and it showed speedo moving on crank, then stuck at 58 and never moved after starting and driving. I have the wires hooked up just as another member said via pm it should be.

I have also unhooked my cruise wire thinking that may be causing problems.

dingle

On mine, I hooked up the speedo wire directly from the 99pcm to the autometer gauge (I have an 83 so the oem speedo was analog). I can check to see which wire it was when I get home, I do remember the wire was solid white though.

I think this was it..
G WHT PCM 10 Tach out to Brake Control Module

http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/wiring.htm

bingo

iTrader: (2)

I am pretty sure the tach wire is the white one. The speedo wires are usually green on later model PCMs. The one marked K on the 220 connector should be the signal for the speedo from the PCM. I am going by the list of wires you posted.

Klortho

Ok here's the one that should be hooked directly to the speedo

K DK GRN/WHT PCM 50 VSS Output

this is on the White C220 plug on the LS1 harness that has the oil pressure wire in it.

bingo

iTrader: (2)

Glad I was reading that right. I hope this helps get the speedo working.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

pin 50, on the red plug is what I connected to "c" on my buffer box plug. I am getting ohm signal from end to end.

I did not touch my tach wire(since it was mentioned). It works.

And while wiring diagram was thrown up. Is "B GRY PCM 32 Clutch Anticipate Switch Signal" my clutch switch, and need to be grounded on the other side of the switch?

bingo

iTrader: (2)

The gray wire matches a wire on your clutch switch. It may be with the cruise control wiring. I believe mine was gray also. It tells the computer the clutch is in so it will drop the idle.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Sorry, forgot to mention the car was an automatic orginally, it was converted to manual before I got it. Only wires are ppl n green there.(clutch start switch?).

Klortho

Do you have the blue and white plugs still on the harness? If you do, connect the green/white out of the white C220 plug into the tan or green/white that goes to the speedo. The wire coming out of the PCM for the speedo should be green/white also.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

don't know if this has anything to do with your problem or not (guessing over the pc) but on efilive it should show the correct mph. mine does as it should. after all the pcm is what sends the signal to the speedometer. is there anychance your sender to pcm wires could be shorted or picking up another signal?

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Klrtho, I have already done that, it still doesnt work.

88350. That must be my only guess is that the wires are damaged. I am not getting a VSS trouble code though, as I think I should be then.

Does it matter which way the wires are connected to the sender? I matched ppl to ppl, and then yellow to.. the other. Guess I will ohm verify that tommorow.

bingo

iTrader: (2)

The sender can actually go either way. I had a similar problem with my tach when I did my swap. It wouldn't read most of the time and sometimes it would go crazy. I was sure I had it hooked up properly. I ohmed out the connections and everything was fine. I ended up running a new wire from the tach to the coil. Apparently the wire was damaged somewhere. Are you going through the connector for the buffer or are you using the wires? Pics might help if you can get some.

cam-

Eee gads ignore my post earlier about the resistor that was for the tach. My apologies there if I confused you I cant believe I did that. Anyways...

My speedo would not work at all through the VSS out at the PCM. I spliced into the feed from the trans driectly to the speedo and it worked fine. I was going to disconnect the VSS in at the PCM as I didnt think it was nec but after posting on LS1tech I found that it affects some engine management parameters so I left it alone. Works fine now

Dale

iTrader: (12)

cam- thats what the "founder" of the swap I did said to do.... after I had the crap in the car. Part of the reason I did this swap is to have the ability to correct for gears/tire size.

I figured with as many ppl that put LS1's in these cars, a solution had been figured out to use the vss output to our clusters.

I'll get pics, and ohm stuff out tonight.

cam-

I can certainly understand that. Fortunately for me in that regards I had already done a t56 swap on my previous build and being that I had a mechanical speedo I was buggered so I swapped in an autometer electronic speedo that is adjustable. Someone has to have made this work by now did you try posting over at LS1tech?

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Never been to LS1 tech.

Pics attached...
Vss sensor. Yes, them wires have clear heat shrink tube on them.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

red50 to terminal c.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

birds nest on floor (hope to take care of that this weekend.)

Dale

iTrader: (12)

The oil leaking beast.

cam-

Are you telling me you did an LS1 swap without using LS1tech.com????? Dude thats a first WOW!!!

Dale

iTrader: (12)

As you see, its not an LS1 motor. Its an LS1 ecm, controlling a TPI motor as posted in the TPI section. It uses a van code. I found everything I need so far on here, a truck forum, and now EFIlive for editing.

I'm having editing problems, speedo, need clutch switch, and found another small oil leak (gotta pull base intake, ARGH).

cam-

Ahh I wondered about that. I'm curious to know how well the management works out for you with that set up. My nephew just put together a very healthy TPI sbc and we are going to attempt to tune it with the PROM although I am worried as its not my first go at those crap *** systems. Please put an update in this section and possibly a review of how you feel this works as it may be the route we have to take to get it singing properly. Cool beans

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

ahh, now I think I see the whole problem



ok, go to the window you had open in the screen shot and change the pick up teeth to 1


that should kindawork

I will have to get back on the correct answer.

I see now you are using a sender used on the factory setups for a 4000 pulse per mile vs the ecm you have that has a much higher signal expected

Dale

iTrader: (12)

cam, got to the TPI section, everyone thats done the swap loves it. I'm sure I will once I get the bugs out and a decent tune.

88, i'll give that a try on my next tune. Thanks

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

I'm not sure what to change specifically to make it correct. but I am 99% sure on the sender is not sending the signal the pcm needs to see. I bet if you look up the t56 speedo swap threads in regards to the dakota sgi-5 box you could figure out what it needs to see per mile. as long as you know your current speed sensor gears tooth count and your rear end gears. we already know the speedometer in your cluster needs 4000 out put per mile so......... if we let the pcm see the correct lower input to look for you will be set

cam-

LOL jeepers do I really have to? haha man I had no idea you were doinf this on a TPI. This is pretty much the only section of TGO I post in these days and you are the first to post any such issues here and not be running an LS1 or LT1 so I was guffawed there. Ya I'll do a little research about it.

As for the pulse waves being different 88 350 Formula TPI is correct a lot of guys run that little dakota digital interface box. Even still there is a chance the pulse out from the PCM might night have enough kick to run your speedo it didnt in my case I had to splice into the trans feed to get it happening.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Ok, I have ohmed the wires from vss to ecm. And ecm do dash. There all ohm out.

4000 will not take in that spot that 88 suggested.

I guess I will be hooking my speedo back up 3rd gen way. Correcting for gear size was a key point. But I now know I have a 19tooth vss gear, and red t5 gear. So I'll have to see what that is.

Thanks for trying to help.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

I would just go to the tuning board on ls1tech and see if they can't help you with what needs to be changed. just make sure they know you are using the thirdgen speed sensor which has a much lower pulse rate.
there is a way to do it I just don't know how the calculations in the program need to get setup


as for the cruise I guess now seeing you are using the tpi just hook it up the same way as factory thirdgens

clippjr8

I have made several thrid gen speedo's work off of 411 PCMS with no buffer boxes. Ill send you the correct EFI Live settings to make your speedo work by hooking it directly to the VSS. I have spliced the VSS wire under the dash to feed the PCM and the Speedo off the same wire. Make sure to log with EFILive to see what the VSS is outputing to the PCM. If it shows 1 or 0 the whole time, then you need to adjust your settings.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

I would think the best way to do this would to take the normal output from the factory buffer to the pcm and just run it to the "new/ 411" pcm with your cal. that way the factory cruise would work the same as it always did.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I'm wondering if the problem lies in I am still useing a 3rdgen VSS. Where others were using 4thgen VSS, PCM, and converting it down to 3rdgen dash.

I'm always open for suggestions though.

cam-

Dale whats this system called your running? Do you have pics of the harness? thanks

Klortho

You need to be running the 4th gen VSS in the tranny for the LS1 PCM to get the correct input to provide the output.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Harness is homemade based off a factory van harness.


Does anyone know of a 4th gen VSS that will work in a t5? Or just put it back to 3rd setup and dont worry about it.

BlueIroc-Z

iTrader: (6)

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I think my questions are relevant.

I don't have, nor have ever used EFILive, but going back up to the picture attached to post #7... Can those values on the right be manipulated (I see an "Adjust" box up there in the upper middle of the screen), or are they only filled out through the calculations completed on the left? 'Cause couldn't you just 'adjust' the "Pulses per mile" to 4000 and use the 3rd-gen VSS?

I think this is what 88 350 tpi formula was saying up a few posts. To just plug in the 4000 ppm in the spot and call it good. Apparently that did not work though... I guess my question to Dale is: When you tried to enter the 4000 ppm, did you use the adjust box up above there? (I apologize if that is a dumb question, like I said I'm not aquainted with the software...) There would probably have to be some additional calculations and adjustments made to other values that would be affected by the change of the PPM number, if it can even be changed...

I ask because I am wanting to use my 700R4 on my 6.0L swap, for cost cutting reasons (temporary). But, I see no feasible (easy and cheap) way to run a 40 tooth reluctor on the 700. I am also wanting to use the LS1 speedometer/gauge cluster, so I need the VSS output from the PCM to be functional.

Anyway, I guess this is all an exercise in futility if the only thing they let you change is the "VSS pickup teeth"...