zupta82

Hello everyone, I just rebuilt my trunk motor with a new plastic gear, slide inserts, and new black plastic Dorman mounting housing. Before I assembled everything I verified the motor worked by connecting 12 volts to the motor contacts. I measured 12v volts at (blue,orange,brown) of the 4 pin harness connecting into the black switch that plugs into the motor.

Also I tried pressing in the switch that is mounted on the latch hook to try and cycle the motor like I did in the past. It seems that the switch won’t push as if it’s stuck solid, I recall a soft like spring motion of the switch that retracts. Here are some pics, I would greatly appreciate some help!!

zupta82

I was just thinking could it be the reverse switch, just before I started rebuilding the motor the hatch was not working at all. I was just trying to replace the obvious thinking that it might of been a shot in the dark??

I know this is not a good approach, I recall the switch could be cleaned and disassembled??

zupta82

Hello, everyone again. I went back and and probed the voltages with my black meter lead to chassis ground.

1. This time however, I tried pushing on the striker sensor at the same time checking the voltages and they are still the same
2. Also, I tried the black switch in both the up and down position and still the voltages are the same.
3. Lastly, I probed both the pins on the motor itself with both with manipulation of the reversing switch and the striker switch. I am reading the battery voltage

I honestly think the motor is stuck in the opposite position and won’t change polarity

zupta82

I went back and took the reversing switch apart and cleaned the snot out of it with and alcohol and deoxit contact cleaner and put some nolox electric grease, I used this grease successfully before with a shifter sensor on my Volvo. Also I checked the diode for forward and reverse bias with a meter and it’s ok. All I got left is a square relay. Please can someone help!!!

JA411

Best I remember did you set the gear nut in the proper location? Used to do those units all the time on older Cadillac's and
my own Camaro's.
Joe

zupta82

Ok, I went back and pierced the switch wires with a needle and jumper wire and got the motor to work. Like I said before the striker switch feels very stiff. I just broke down and gutted apart the switch to see the wiper terminals have any corrosion here are some pics the spring is very tiny and I’m guessing it is getting stuck between the 3 copper pads . I am in the junkyard now looking for another switch to compare. Any other gm cars that could use this switch