Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
#1
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Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
I'm not sure if someone tried to steal the radio at some point in its life or what but the dash is destroyed in my 88 Iroc. I have another dash but it's from a V6 car. How hard is it to swap the harnesses? V6 car was an 87 if I'm not mistaken. I am soo dreading pulling the dash!!!
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
Neither have I. Lucky me!!! The car needs a lot of work and I'm beginning to wonder if I should drop back and punt. Lol
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
IMO, you wouldn't want to swap the harness because of your gauges and everything else.
IIRC, the harness is attached via push clips add maybe tape etc. Just undo the V6 one to see what's involved and then remove the original dash and replace. If you don't fubar the connectors too much it should be easy to plug the original harness into the V6 dash. I'm not sure if the original dash has any identifying imprints on the front that you won't be able to transfer over, that's if it is important to you.
I wouldn't dread it so much, just take your time and do it in steps. You'll probably need to drop the steering column/wheel to the seat, remove the center console (bolts are under the liner in the glovebox (iirc 10mm?)), and then the two bolts holding the dash up. Then the cluster and other accessories (torx t-15 iirc). FWIW, the headlight pull is removed by depressing a metal button on the side of the electronic switch box.
IIRC, the harness is attached via push clips add maybe tape etc. Just undo the V6 one to see what's involved and then remove the original dash and replace. If you don't fubar the connectors too much it should be easy to plug the original harness into the V6 dash. I'm not sure if the original dash has any identifying imprints on the front that you won't be able to transfer over, that's if it is important to you.
I wouldn't dread it so much, just take your time and do it in steps. You'll probably need to drop the steering column/wheel to the seat, remove the center console (bolts are under the liner in the glovebox (iirc 10mm?)), and then the two bolts holding the dash up. Then the cluster and other accessories (torx t-15 iirc). FWIW, the headlight pull is removed by depressing a metal button on the side of the electronic switch box.
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
Gotcha. I have the console out from the the t56 swap so that's one thing out of the way. Can the Z28/Iroc emblem be swapped over to the V6 dash? The V6 dash just has a "Camaro" emblem.
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
Getting the dash out is a bear, but only because so much attaches to it. Yours will be different from mine, I couldn't get the harnes out of the car at all, though I did free it up from the dash.
My advice? loosen the bolts on the column where it connects to the column support. (actually I think you have to do this anyway, as, from memory, there's a bracket that pinches the 2 together.) This also gets your column out of the way.
The dash itself is just a piece of plastic really. Once you FINALLY get all the wiring away from it, it'll be fairly easy. Oh, and the air box parts. Have yourself a 10mm and 7mm socket set and drill ready. Oh, and some bandages. I cut my hands up pretty bad on mine trying work all these 26 year old harness connectors loose.
It took me about half a day going in blind to tear mine out, but I had a literal rats nest in mine to deal with.
My advice? loosen the bolts on the column where it connects to the column support. (actually I think you have to do this anyway, as, from memory, there's a bracket that pinches the 2 together.) This also gets your column out of the way.
The dash itself is just a piece of plastic really. Once you FINALLY get all the wiring away from it, it'll be fairly easy. Oh, and the air box parts. Have yourself a 10mm and 7mm socket set and drill ready. Oh, and some bandages. I cut my hands up pretty bad on mine trying work all these 26 year old harness connectors loose.
It took me about half a day going in blind to tear mine out, but I had a literal rats nest in mine to deal with.
#9
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8 V6 TPI
Transmission: Stock 700R4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: Stock GU6 3.42
Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
I've got a crack similar to this one in my dash but it's not nearly as wide, it's just a small gap less than a millimeter across
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
The harness is clipped, screwed and snaked into the dash. Don't attempt to take the dash out without the harness, or vice-versa.
Disconnect the C100 wiring on the driver's side.
Disconnect the 2-3 plugs by the ECM, which will stay in the car.
Drop or remove the steering column, and disconnect all wiring plugs.
Remove speaker brackets, and center support.
One large screw under the left and right side.
One large nut at the top corners.
Then work slowly and unplug anything I forgot to list.
Disconnect the C100 wiring on the driver's side.
Disconnect the 2-3 plugs by the ECM, which will stay in the car.
Drop or remove the steering column, and disconnect all wiring plugs.
Remove speaker brackets, and center support.
One large screw under the left and right side.
One large nut at the top corners.
Then work slowly and unplug anything I forgot to list.
#13
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Car: 88 IROC Z/28-under re-construction
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
i pulled a donor dash and just swapped it and replaced the heater core while i was that far,
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Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
This would definitely be the time to verify your core is in good shape and replace if you suspect anything fishy. It's also a great time to install an alarm if you have plans for one...or modding your ducts so you can squeeze some 5.25 or 6.5 into the dash.
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Car: 88 IROC Z/28-under re-construction
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
....modding your ducts so you can squeeze some 5.25 or 6.5 into the dash.[/QUOTE]
Can you elaborate? 1st i've heard of this in 23 years of 3rd gens
Can you elaborate? 1st i've heard of this in 23 years of 3rd gens
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Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
The biggest obstacle to replacing the 4x6's is the depth...especially on the driver's side. With the the dash apart, you've got a golden opportunity to put a heat gun to the duct and give yourself the depth you need for a lager speaker.
Do a search for "5.25 dash" and you'll find lots of threads on the topic.
Do a search for "5.25 dash" and you'll find lots of threads on the topic.
#17
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
You can replace the dash while leaving the heater core and wire harness in the car. It takes a while but a 7mm 10mm and screwdriver is all you really need. You can reuse your gauges of course. Removing the front seats may make it easier to work on. Four bolts each. If you didn't want to buy another junk yard dash you could pull yours out and file a groove in the crack, drill the end and use plastic epoxy. Sand it smooth and pai t the dash with plastic paint.
#18
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z / T-Top -1987 GTA
Engine: 305 (LO3) _350 (L98)
Transmission: 700R4 _ 700R4
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Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
i saw one like this ... it happened when the police yanked my buddy out the passenger side door, and he did not want to get out ... lol
#19
Re: Crack in dash and not dash pad. Pic and it's ugly!!
I have an 88 i just bought and an 88 parts car, both are cracked in the same spot. I plan on getting to the back side of my dash and doing a little plastic welding.
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