89 convertable interior
#1
89 convertable interior
is there any companies manufacturing interior panels for an 89 convertible , I am wanting to do a color change from red to black I have already purchased 4th gen seats a new floor carpet but I am in need of kick panels sill plates and the panels on either side of the back seat and seat belts
#5
Supreme Member
iTrader: (101)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Levittown Pa
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes
on
17 Posts
Car: 89 Iroc Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 Posi 9 bolt PBR
Re: 89 convertable interior
I have a pair of convertible rear armrest panels and front seatbelt retractors in black
#6
Trending Topics
#8
Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Dallas Tx
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 Iroc Z28 Convertible
Engine: V8 5.0 305 TBI
Re: 89 convertable interior
The seatbelts are not interchangeable in back. The front ones "can" be interchanged. I was able to do so with virtually no issues. The back ones, the issue is the shoulder strap that is in the Tonneau.
I switched my car from light grey interior to black/dark blue and it was a chore. I ended up having to paint some parts due to the fact I couldn't find them for sale anywhere.
Notably the plastic trim for verts that goes from door sill to vert frame in door. I will say, if you buy the right paint and prime and soft sand the parts they will look factory after painting them.
I bought some berlinetta kick panels that had black carpet on them so it looked good.
I had the interior redone including doors and panels. This pic is before I had finished replacing all the light grey parts.
I switched my car from light grey interior to black/dark blue and it was a chore. I ended up having to paint some parts due to the fact I couldn't find them for sale anywhere.
Notably the plastic trim for verts that goes from door sill to vert frame in door. I will say, if you buy the right paint and prime and soft sand the parts they will look factory after painting them.
I bought some berlinetta kick panels that had black carpet on them so it looked good.
I had the interior redone including doors and panels. This pic is before I had finished replacing all the light grey parts.
#9
Re: 89 convertable interior
Thanks this helps out , I have a complete black interior from a hard top that I want to put what I can into the vert , the parts I cant interchange I will try to paint black , what paint did you use
#10
Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Dallas Tx
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 Iroc Z28 Convertible
Engine: V8 5.0 305 TBI
Re: 89 convertable interior
Any plastic paint from Autozone (or any autoparts) will work. I believe I used Krylon Fusion. The key isn't the paint (though it must be made for plastic) as much is the time. Here's what I learned but I am sure there are people on here that are paint experts. I am only a semi-novice.
1. Clean the part thoroughly. Use a degreaser (you need to do this to remove all that armorall and other junk that was put all over it previously) If you don't do this you will get bubbles all over the paint job and it's a pain to get past.
2. Scuff it gently using fine grit sand paper. You don't want to remove textures, just give the paint something to hold on to.
3. I put a thin coat of primer on the part and let it fully dry (I left them overnight, but doesn't need this long). Some will argue that plastic doesn't need a primer and they are right I have done without, but Zinssers 123 Primer wont hurt.
4. Here is where time can pay off (in my opinion) I put on extremely thin coats of paint about 14" away from part. I am talking mist thin that doesn't fully cover the part and let each coat dry for an hour. I ended up with about 7 of these coats (4 before the plastic was completely covered), what this does is let the paint adhere better and makes it much harder to peel/scratch later. Again this is my opinion and a true painter may have reasons why this is dumb. Just something I learned when it came to painting other plastic projects. Also I would note to shake can for 2 mins and spray a test spray on paper or something every time before use to remove any dried paint or junk.
5. Put a coat of sealer over it. I used single coat of gloss to give the parts a decent shine. Let it dry for a couple days or you sometimes can see fingerprints in the paint from touching it.
1. Clean the part thoroughly. Use a degreaser (you need to do this to remove all that armorall and other junk that was put all over it previously) If you don't do this you will get bubbles all over the paint job and it's a pain to get past.
2. Scuff it gently using fine grit sand paper. You don't want to remove textures, just give the paint something to hold on to.
3. I put a thin coat of primer on the part and let it fully dry (I left them overnight, but doesn't need this long). Some will argue that plastic doesn't need a primer and they are right I have done without, but Zinssers 123 Primer wont hurt.
4. Here is where time can pay off (in my opinion) I put on extremely thin coats of paint about 14" away from part. I am talking mist thin that doesn't fully cover the part and let each coat dry for an hour. I ended up with about 7 of these coats (4 before the plastic was completely covered), what this does is let the paint adhere better and makes it much harder to peel/scratch later. Again this is my opinion and a true painter may have reasons why this is dumb. Just something I learned when it came to painting other plastic projects. Also I would note to shake can for 2 mins and spray a test spray on paper or something every time before use to remove any dried paint or junk.
5. Put a coat of sealer over it. I used single coat of gloss to give the parts a decent shine. Let it dry for a couple days or you sometimes can see fingerprints in the paint from touching it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1992 Trans Am
History / Originality
27
05-10-2023 07:19 PM
1992 Trans Am
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
1
08-08-2015 08:16 PM