72SSboy

First off I'm not a mechanic. I'm a weekend wrencher.. but, communicator by trade. I've had this 1988 IROC-Z for about 5 years and did what most do. Kept it running (doesn't run great.. that's next), put on cheesy seat covers and an aftermarket radio. Also threw on some chrome IROCs and put new tires on it.



Straight body no rust whatsoever. Good foundation.



Interior -- not so great -- typical seat tearing-- and the color is kinda dumb. Greyish? Bluish? This will be changed.. I'm thinking black and red leather or vinyl





So, took the seats out. Very very straight forward. Fronts are four bolts each. The power seat just gets unplugged and out. The backs.. even easier -- one bolt for each of the back bottoms.. and the tops (split) on bolt each then jimmy them away from the body. Done.



Don't judge the size of my soda.. who are you? Michael Bloomberg?



I thought I'd take the easy way out. Get the shifter and ebrake recovered. new horn button and dashpad cap. BTW, these caps look really good..



Very slick.. BUT, the mounting plastic is all gone. Just cracked away. Not good.




Then I looked closer at the actual dash and there are cracks everywhere.





Continued Next post... pictures limit

72SSboy

So, took the dashpad back off.. and knocked out the console.



The console is very straight forward.. Took a couple of pics of the switch wiring.. just so I'd know how they go back in.



The hardest part -- believe it or not -- is getting the console out past the Ebrake. I actually cracked the plastic where the ashtray goes.. but, am super gluing it. It's not something you can see when it's back together.





Now, time to tackle that dashboard. It took me hours.. like four hours -- but, was in no rush. The absolute hardest parts for me were disconnecting the speedo cable and getting the light switch out. Ended up breaking the switch and am ordering a new one.

I absolutely definitely recommend you drop the steering wheel when you do this. I tried to work around it.. but, once I dropped it.. it all became a little more manageable.



I put the wheel back up and cleaned up.



While I was at it, I took the door panels off.






That's where I am now. I have a mint dash coming along with switches and other interior stuff. I would LOVE to hear from others who have done what I'm doing and am asking for advice on what I should do while I have the interior in this condition. Also, any advice on how I can stop the door locks from only going half way. The motors appear to hit hard and work great.. but, the locks do not completely lock or unlock (depending on what position they start in).

Also, taking that one out.. I didn't really care about making the cracks worse.. I'd love some help in what I should do to make sure the mint dash goes in and stays mint. Have you done it? Is there a specific order in doing things? Tricks?


I'll update as I go if there's interest.

Thx!

Joe

Kornis

Wow, nice work so far, thank god after looking at all that wiring, mine is in really good shape for an 1986. Good luck, can't wait to see finished product

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

I've done a few of these dashes. Make sure you put back every nut, bolt and screw. Otherwise you will have squeeks, creeks, and vibrations.

rdhanded2

iTrader: (3)

I just went through all of this myself. Car needed everything, and I went from grey to black so I have been there. There is a end and it is worth it, I promise! Awesome start, keep the pics coming.

Eddie1986z28

Looking good. any more pics on dash removal or any help on that? going to be pulling mine soon. Kind of scared to do it lol.

paulo57509

Don't forget some kind of moisture barrier for the doors before you re-install the panels.

72SSboy

Eddie -- I was so into it at the time.. I didn't take a ton of pics.. but, I will say this.. I very carefully tried to feel where the hold ups were.. and was able to track down the screws and bolts where they were. There were fewer than I thought there'd be.. Again.. the scariest part for me will be putting the new one in.

72SSboy

Paulo -- what do you suggest?

j

72SSboy

Will update soon.. expecting a flood of parts in the coming days. Still really wondering if I should pull and replace the carpet.. just to see what's under there. Dynamat is way too expensive in my opinion.. is there a good alternative?

j

The Project

iTrader: (6)

I suggest you remove the carpet and check the entire floor for rust (POR-15 if needed). Raammat is a decent budget alternative to Dynamat.

Check out my build log (in my sig).

I tossed my old interior (including dash and carpet), applied dynamat and installed all NOS parts including panels & switches.

You might find it useful

72SSboy

Cannot wait to look through this.. thanks so much man!

j

Javier87z28

iTrader: (1)

subscribed!

72SSboy

cool.. you're in my area! Come and fix this car..

72SSboy

It's like Christmas in August. Just got my new headlight switch stalk and nut. Door lock inserts. And rear plastic bolts. Good stuff. Still looking for a mint power mirror switch.

j

72SSboy

New stuff starting to show up..

72SSboy

Next question I have to answer.. scrub and keep the stock carpet -- or replace. This project could cost me tons if I let it get away from me. What have you opted to do with yours?

j

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

I've had some luck restoring carpets. If its just dirty, it might come out ok. Most of these carpets are pretty badly sun faded or traffic-worn and scrubbing won't help that.
If you have a pickup or trailer at your disposal, you can take it to a coin op car wash and spray the crap out of it. Power washer works too. It takes a good bit of drying time and the jute underneath will be nasty unless it was a particularly clean car.

72SSboy

thx... still up in the air about it..

72SSboy

Mo Stuff! Some brand new.. some mint.. some very good. Would like to clean up the "very good" stuff.. anyone have any tricks that have worked?

Thanks!

j

Jimmy64D

Where did you order your parts?

72SSboy

assorted ebay vendors .. and on this message board. Not one place.. several.

j

majobis

iTrader: (3)

What parts specifically? I washed mine in the sink with warm water and a a few drops of dish detergent. Q-tips, sponges and rags took care of everything. After that, I used SEM Plastic prep, then adhesion promoter then a quick coat or two of SEM interior point. Beautiful results with lots of compliments followed!

jk50

Looks like A LOT of work. You're brave to tackle all of that. I'm not a mechanic, either and would be very nervous about doing all of that.
I'm curious about the door panels, actually. I just bought an 89 IROC Vert that has been 90-95% redone. However, there are some issue left that need fixing. For example, my passenger side door creaks and rattles like crazy and I REALLY want it fixed, but have no idea where to start or what parts I may need...or where to get them. Also, need to fix the electric mirror quad switch on the driver's door. The actual exterior of the part looks fine, but only moves the driver's mirror up and down. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

72SSboy

I'll be watching for replies. Luckily I don't have noisy doors.. but, I'll bet the folks here will know where you should start looking!

72SSboy

Spent A little time in the car today. Couple of wires on the dash harness I'm not sure what they are :

Orange wire? Single plug?



Looks like maybe a blue LED? After market alarm light or something? Ideas?



Washed some of the plastics. They came out great -- and I was able to tell what's faded after the wash.



Need to find a mint power mirror switch and would like to replace the fog lamp switch. It almost looks gray.

more updates soon -- hopefully

j

72SSboy

p.s. worked the door locks today.. again, they hit hard.. but, are still not doing the full throw. WDed em really well. Will continue to try.. not sure they're gonna come around.

j

The Project

iTrader: (6)

If you decide to repaint some parts, SEM Landau Black (part 15013) is what a lot of guys use here on their interior plastics. Also, spray the part the the SEM Plastic Adhesion Promoter (Part 39863) first to ensure good contact and get the best results.

s8bayer

I second this. At least look under there. This is probably the one time you will be able. I am at the exact same place and glad I found clean white paint when I lifted my carpet. Aftermarket carpet is usually not as nice as the original. Often does not have has thick or any sound deadening material. It is lighter, but I would try and keep the original. Look for a good detailing company around you. The guy I know that owns his detailing business here has an awesome $3k carpet cleaning machine. If you can find someone that has something industrial, your old carpet (as long as it doesn't have high wear or holes) will come out great! At least try it. Good luck.

72SSboy

thx

BrianI

Subscribing. I pulled the carpet to cut a hole for the t56 I installed. I thought I had a rust free car only to find a rust hole on both sides of the car near the kick panels. Im gonna weld in some patch panels and POR 15 everything. I would suggest you pull the carpet and check the floor. Eepecially since its a T-top car.

72SSboy

Got it

72SSboy

Decided to pull the carpet. It looked okay.. but, as I looked closer, there were rows missing and fraying on the driver's side under the pedals.



Another view



Great news.. only a touch of surface rust.. otherwise.. rust free. So, three questions:

1. I'm going to brush off the surface rust.. what do you suggest I spray on there to stop it before it starts?

2. You can see there are still four pads of the under-padding on the floor. It's obviously glued down big time to stop the carpet from moving around. Do I just leave that? Or try to take it off?

3. What's the most correct, best-fitting, easiest to install, most reasonably priced replacement?

thanks!

j

72SSboy

BTW, ordered my seat covers and door panels from Princess.. will let you know how it goes. I'm going with black vinyl/leather with red inserts. Not sure if I'll try to install myself

j

The Project

iTrader: (6)

1. I'm going to brush off the surface rust.. what do you suggest I spray on there to stop it before it starts?

Rust kill and rattle can spray on bed liner to cover

2. You can see there are still four pads of the under-padding on the floor. It's obviously glued down big time to stop the carpet from moving around. Do I just leave that? Or try to take it off?

Leave alone....it is a pain to remove completely.

3. What's the most correct, best-fitting, easiest to install, most reasonably priced replacement?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/390061541590?...84.m1423.l2649

72SSboy

hey brother.. thanks for the reply as usual.. I mean.. I'm adventurous.. but, to cut the console and other openings myself.. sounds like a recipe to screw up a brand new carpet. Would you suggest I lay the old one on top of the new one to do it right?

j

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Absolutely, keep the old one and use as a template.

Since the carpet is up and the metal is clean, consider applying some sound deadener.

72SSboy

sound deadener is way too pricey.. it's already breaking the bank.. the stock padding was fine..

LHernandezJr

...

72SSboy

thanks man!

toyotekk

Where did you get and how much was your gauge cluster

72SSboy

I think on here.. 125.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

If you get a replacement carpet, don't cut it for a while or cut it long. It will pull away from the sides as it settles into place and if you cut it when you put it in, it will not be long enough once it settles.

72SSboy

I would prefer to not cut it at all..but, I'll definitely take your advice and cut it long..

thx

LHernandezJr

...

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

Wow, your floors are very clean. Don't use POR 15 or bedliner, its not for those kinds of applications where there's lots of good paint. Just grind down the few rust spots and use a good quality primer and top coat on those spots. A spot blaster will make quick work of it if you have air. Unless there is lots of bubbling under the paint which I can't see in the pics.

Don't mess with the padding that's stuck. Underneath are the body plugs, which are sealed in with seam sealer. The padding is there to keep the goop from sticking to the main carpet. Just leave them as is.

Good advice on the carpet in the above post.

Jwood1991

Nice job looks good how much was it?

72SSboy

I paid 1000 for the car 5 years ago.. have done very little with it.. saved a couple of bucks and am trying to bring it back to life. As far as the carpet, Moto -- do you adhere it at all? Or just lay it in? I will definitely grind down the surface rust.. and Home Depot has a rustoleum/bedliner product I'll probably use.

Thanks guys!

j

LHernandezJr

...

'86 Sport Coupe

iTrader: (1)

Have any tips on getting the headlight switch to come out?