Interior Discussion about interior restoration, repairs, and modifications.

Interior electrical woes

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Old 07-07-2013, 09:26 PM
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98(5.7 L TPI)
Transmission: 700r4(A4)
Axle/Gears: G80 RPO, 3:23s, Auburn Racer's Diff
Interior electrical woes

Allight, so....

I just worked on my interior. I replaced the power window motors, power window switches, and added a double din radio.

Now that the dust has settled...

On the power windows.... I installed NOS (or reproduction?) black switches from an earlier bird. (I got the switches from Hawk's.) For the most part, they work. The switches will sometimes stick in the down or in the up position. I'm assuming this problem with go away as the plastic breaks in. Also, yesterday, the right window was working fine, but the left window stopped working. It was stuck until I restarted the car. Today, the right window would not work (but the left window did), until I restarted the car. Is this an issue caused by the switches needing to break in? Or, is there another gremlin I need to hunt down?

Also, my fog lights do not work. The switch lights up when I press it. However, the lights will not come on. The fuse is not blown. Any idea as to what could be broken?

Additionally, my ACC fuse keeps blowing. As a result, I've lost my power antenna, horn, and power trunk popper. (At least, I think the trunk popper is tied to the ACC fuse.) I heard this is often caused by the cigarette lighter (or the cigarette lighter power socket?) going bad. With the ACC fuse blown, when I run a multimeter on the positive and negative terminals of the cigarette lighter power port (without unplugging it from the rest of the car), it tells me its shorted out. Does this mean that the cigarette lighter itself is the cause of the short? Or, because the cigarette lighter is still plugged into the rest of the car, could I be detecting a short elsewhere? I'd rather not tear apart the center console if I don't have to.

Where can I buy a replacement cigarette lighter power port?

Finally, as part of the double din install, I needed to reroute the wires that (1) run from under the radio pod to a clip to the right of the automatic transmission lever and (2) to the cigarette lighter. Now, the bulbs that light up my gear indicator on the center console (P R N OD D 1 2) and the glovebox storage compartment in my center console are also not working.

Thanks for the help guys!
Bill
Old 07-07-2013, 11:15 PM
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Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
Re: Interior electrical woes

My window switches do that sometimes, but they are 20+ yrs old.With mine its due to the contact points being dirty.Since the cars sits months without use.Never used to do that when it was my daily driver.So you may have cheapo repos, but im guessing its bad contacts at the switch.

Have you checked for voltage at the fog lights with them switched on?Were they working prior to window/radio install?

Have you tried just leaving the cig unplugged to see if the fuse wil stop blowing?

Could the re-routed wires in the console have something to do with the cig lighter not working or popping the fuse? Check your wires for stripped insulation/short.
Old 07-09-2013, 02:15 PM
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Car: '02 T/A WS6, '91 T/A, '91 Camaro RS
Engine: LS1, LB9, L03
Transmission: T56, 700R4, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 10 bolt, 2.73 10 bolts
Re: Interior electrical woes

Normally I'd say your window problem sounds like a classic case of bad motors, but apparently you've just replaced them, so not sure what to tell you there.

Have you checked to make sure that there's not something jammed in your cig lighter socket that keeps blowing the fuse? My car's idiot previous owner had jammed a penny in mine, would put a constant draw on my ACC fuse.

More than likely you just need to replace your bulbs for the console light and shift indicator. I'd guess it's a 194/168 bulb, and the shift indicator is probably either the same, or a 2721 if it's the super skinny style.
Old 07-12-2013, 03:54 AM
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98(5.7 L TPI)
Transmission: 700r4(A4)
Axle/Gears: G80 RPO, 3:23s, Auburn Racer's Diff
Re: Interior electrical woes

I'm hoping the center console lighting issue is just caused by bad bulbs. The cigarette lighter socket is definately empty. Since the window motors are g2g, I wonder if it's the regulators.
Old 08-02-2013, 03:59 PM
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98(5.7 L TPI)
Transmission: 700r4(A4)
Axle/Gears: G80 RPO, 3:23s, Auburn Racer's Diff
Re: Interior electrical woes

Update:

Some of this has been resolved. The fog lights are still not operable.

However, I found the cause of the short in my ACC fuse. My cigarette lighter power port (not the cigarette lighter itself, I don't have one of those) is shorted out. After I unplugged it, the fuse stopped blowing and the operation of my map lights (the lights on the underside of my rearview mirror), the glove box light, and my horn were restored. When I reconnect my radio, I assume my power antenna will start working again.

I am not sure if it was on the same circut, but the bulb that lights up the PRNODD12 indicator for my automatic transmission did not work along with the horn, glovebox light, etc. It turns out the bulb was blown. I replaced it with an LED from superbrightLEDS.com, and it works!

Also, I figured out the issue with my sticking power window switches. (However, I am not sure if this is also the issue that is causing me to need to restart the car to get them to work sometimes.) I had my center console refinished in black interior paint to remove the "Tron" pattern. The paint adhered to the inside edges of the holes for the power window switches. This made the holes narrower. The left/right pressure from the smaller holes is causing the switches to stick in the down and up positions. I am going to have the sides of the holes slightly sanded to give the switches more "breathing room."

Unfortunately, in the process of trying to repair the switches, I sprayed the bottom of the switches with Quick Disconnect Contact Cleaner (that is supposedly plastic safe) and the top (moving part) of the switches with silicone (in an attempt to lubricate them). I'm not sure if it was the contact cleaner or the silicone (my money is on the silicone), but it etched/clouded the plastic. BAM! Almost brand-new $60 Hawk's switches SCREWED UP.

However, I am thankful to the LORD that I was able to resolve most of my problems.

Right now the GTA is in the shop for a surging at idle. Apparently, the engine is also only operating in "open loop" and won't go into "closed loop." The surge only happens after the engine is warmed up. The mechanic just replaced the valve seals. (This problem existed BEFORE he replaced the valve seals.) He also cleaned the IAC valve and the throttle body. With the engine in "open loop," it is not throwing any codes. Any thoughts?

Thank you for all of your help, and I praise God that this project is moving forward!
Bill
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