86_irocz-28

So made a trip out to upullit today after a little bit of looking i found a 96 camaro dash was in great condition although dash pad was not and next thing i know im unbolting the dash right off paid $34 for it ive done the research but cant what i need to know which is, did i need the bottom metal rail that the glove box was connected to? heres a pic of the dash

JacobIroc

If the metal brace went all the way across the dash.. Than yeah, it should be used to mount the dash. IMO the 97-02 and firebird dashes look better.

86_irocz-28

okay thats what i figured but wasnt sure ill have to go get it then and the reason i went with 96 is because IMO the 97-02 camaro/firebird guage cluster is to big of a gap compared to the narrower 96 dash.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Yes, you want the lower brace, and you'll want to separate the cassette compartment from the front of the console (or get the whole console). If you don't get the compartment, you'll have a HUGE gap between the console and the dash. You will also need the cluster and wiring for the headlight switch and the heater controls and the connector for the heater that is on the MODE switch (on the right, the fan speed connector on the left is the same except the light green wire running between the fan switch and the MODE connector). Oh, and, of course, you want ALL of the ducting behind the dash.

BTW, can you get me a pic of the back side of the pass side air bag door, at the top where it hinges? I think that the aluminum (or whatever metal that is) brace running across the top of the air bag door is supposed to be straight. Mine isn't, and I need to confirm that it is supposed to be before I go and brace it with a piece of steel...

Faded

Hey Maverick, is this what you need?

86_irocz-28

I plan on getting a 96 console(the one at upillit was destroyed) also I have the cluster and wiring for the headlight switch. The heater cluster/wiring, and ducting though i dont need as there will be no heat or ac also no airbag

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Faded, I'll get a pic of what I'm looking for shortly...

86, since you've decided to not use the heater ducts, would you be willing to sell the one on the extreme passenger's side (if you have it)? One of the retainer tabs broke off on mine and the duct feeding it is just flopping there and creating a nice air leak. Not good since I need the heat ducts... And the heater controls if you have them? My dash came from a 93 and I can't stress enough how nasty I think that yellow print is... The donor was the only 4th gen Camaro of the right year range in the yard.

86_irocz-28

dont have any of that but ill make it out to upullit sometime in the next week maybe sooner and ill pick it up

86_irocz-28

Okay i need some help with the wiring for the lights **** and dimmer. Theres a thick yellow,thick red, orange, black, brown, and tan for the headlight **** and the dimmer has black, brown, green and two yellowish tan wires that lead into one connector also the switch for the brights yellow, lime green, black, tan, and brown i need to match this with my 86 iroc wiring

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Red is power to the switch, it gets connected. Will probably be orange in your harness.
Yellow is power to the headlight dimmer from the switch. It gets connected.
Tan is low beams from the dimmer to the bulkhead connector. Connect.
Light green is high beams. Connect. (Shouldn't need to do anything to the headlight dimmer if you're using the 3rd gen harness)
Black is ground. Connect.
Brown is parking lights. Connect.
The dark green wire is the output for the interior lights from the dimmer. Should connect to the dimmer switch on the 4th gen controls.
The white wire is a switched ground for the dome and foot lights (if you have the foot lights). It connects to the dimmer on the 4th gen controls so that the **** turns the dome lights on when turned all the way up, just like in the 3rd gen.

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

Looks like you got it covered.

86_irocz-28

Okay so the only prob i see with that is in the dimmer box in the diagram i have two gray wires but they end in the same connector also im kinda confused on the left side of the diagram with the green and gray

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, um, I don't see how the green and gray work properly... The gray wire to the headlight switch is for the backlight... Using the green wire for this leaves out the fuse...
The "gray" wires you see at the dimmer are actually WHITE. They connect to the WHITE wire off of your headlight switch, and, as I said above, turns the dome light on when the dial is all the way UP. I think he forgot this wire in his dimmer and I'd be willing to bet that the dome light does NOT turn on with the dial at MAX like it's supposed to. I believe one runs to the dome light and the other to the door jamb switches or something like that, but connect them together and get the job done.
If you have fog lights, you will need to tap into the GRAY wire at the headlight switch for the illumination lamp, NOT the white wire.
The GRAY wires come off of the INST (3rd gen, DIMMER in the 4th gen panel) fuse and is the dimmer output for ALL of the dimming lamps (instrument cluster, radio, fog light, headlight switch backlights). The WHITE wire is as I said above. I don't have a diagram for the fog lights themselves for the 4th gen, so I can't help further.

86_irocz-28

No what im saying is theres one "gray" wire coming out of the foglight switch and two "gray" wires coming from the dimmer also what do i connect the green dimmer wire to and what do i connect the "grey" headlight wire to heres a pic

86_irocz-28

Also hers pics of the dash console and gauges removed along with center console also a little mod that i did to the 96 dash

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Those are WHITE wires coming out of the dimmer. They're dirty. The gray wire coming out of the fog switch, again, is for the back light, and gets spliced into the gray wire running into the instrument cluster, just like the headlight switch's gray wire. I'll get a pic of mine in the morning.
A: Brown wire, park light input from headlight switch
B: Black wire, ground
C: 2 White wires, spliced into the switched grounds for the dome and courtesy lights
D: Green wire, output to either INST fuse (3rd gen) or DIMMER fuse (4th gen), controls the gray dimming wires via the fuse.

86_irocz-28

Okay so what about the green from the dimmer?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Connect it to the green wire at the headlight switch on the 3rd gen harness...

:edit: And you are DEFINITELY going to need to cut off those side dash brackets from the oval up on your IROC... They're in the way of the sides of the 4th gen dash. And then you need to break out the BFH and get the remainder of the brackets bent back almost flush with the cowl. This is before you take the lower 4th gen dash support and bend the sides (that point towards the floor) up so that they're parallel with the bottom of the cowl and line up with the holes in the modified dash brackets. I'll have to get pics tomorrow and post them in the build thread.

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

Actually everything works just as stock. Dimmer does turn on the dome light at max. By all means Im no wiring expert, but its been working for me.

86_irocz-28

? Since i have no ac heat or even the controls for it also since ill be running an ls1 with its ecm, comp, etc.. and aftermarket gauges can i cut all of this out of the line

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You might want to check in the Engine Swap forum about the ALDL and wiring... You may need it for the PCM. As for the gray box, it should be part of a fully independent harness you can completely remove (cruise control module and harness). You do need the convenience center behind the ALDL since that is your horn and 4-way flasher (if you're going to run exterior lights). And you'll probably need most of the wiring in the connectors next to the gray box for your fuel injection and what not (alternator wire may run through there as well).

Faded

You should do something about that rust on the floorboard while you have everything out...

86_irocz-28

its not as bad as it looks, its only surface a little sanding rust preventative paint coat should be good as far as the wiring goes well all lights work except it doesnt illuminate the **** panel anybody know why? also the brights how do i get them turned on? anyways heres pics

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Look at the back of the light controls... There will be a little gray round thing to the upper left of the headlight **** (when looking at it from the front, the right from the back). You will need to use a screwdriver in the slot and turn it to remove the light. Check to make sure it's not dead (it's one of those PITA dinky 37 bulbs like in the radio). Also check to make sure you have whatever battery voltage is at the GRAY wire on the switch (or close to it).
As for the headlights, does the dimmer switch click when you try to turn on the brights? It may need adjustment. Also, check to make sure you have 12V coming out of the light green wire at the dimmer when you have the brights on. Pointing out the obvious, but if you haven't had an older GM, the turn signal stalk gets pulled towards you until the dimmer switch clicks into brights (newer cars you push forward).

Faded

I went a little overboard on my rust prevention...



I only have that area left to paint with POR-15.

86_irocz-28

okay so got the switch backlight figured out just forgot to wire in the headlight gray wire anyways turned my brights on and this happened why? and how do i fix it?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

There's a bad ground for the passenger's side lights... The high beam on that side is backfeeding into the low beam, making it VERY dim. Remove the ground behind the headlights and clean that first. If that doesn't work, try swapping the sealed beam from the other side. If that doesn't work, you may need a new socket for the sealed beam on that side.

86_irocz-28

So figured it out stupid me i didnt put the connector on fully anyways next thing is figuring out why my hazards dont work(possibe flasher bad) also get the brake lights to function(sensor bad on brake pedal maybe?)

Also thanks for all the help and patience Maverick

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Check the STOP/HAZ fuse... The brake lights and the hazard flasher are on the same fuse.

:edit: And, what I would do is to take the wiring for the convenience center and switch over to the 4th gen... I don't know what others have done to mount the 3rd gen center into the 4th gen dash, but the 4th gen center sits just to the left of the steering column and all of the stuff in it (horn relay, hazard flasher, and the dinger box) points right directly at the driver instead of having that stupid flip-down bracket that's a PITA to get at on a good day.

86_irocz-28

yea im doing the 4th gen center console makes things easier that way. So time to start getting this thing mocked up and put in do i need to cut these brackets off?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

No, I wasn't referring to the console, I was referring to the big black thing that is currently mounted to the same bracket as your ALDL in the dash harness... With the big blue box, one flasher, and the white horn relay in it. The 4th gen is half the size and on the other side of the steering column...

And yes, those side brackets come off. ALL the way down to about 3" above the nut where the bottom of the dash USED to bolt to. I'll have to get a pic of how I did mine.

86_irocz-28

Gotcha well its in all i need to get the bottom bracket rail mounted in and bolt the glove box in. Also maverick what did you do for the gap in between the dash and door

Faded

Put the corner cap and the kick panels back in first and its not as bad.

Some people create fiberglass fillers to fit there, or you could just get a piece of black weatherstripping and fill the gap with that.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

My gap isn't that bad (no, not meaning compared to yours, I mean overall), but I do have the corner fillers in. I don't know about the gap on the driver's side because the donor car already had the fuse panel cover swiped . I personally don't think it's much worse than the stock dash, but, then, like I said, I'm missing the dash's fuse panel cover.

:edit: Also, I see you have a hatch release button... If you're not using it, would you care to sell it? I have everything but that stinking button, and most of them I've seen on eBay and elsewhere are so badly priced it would probably be cheaper to get one from a dealer (seriously, $28 shipped for the button? ).

Oh, and do you have the lower dash brace yet? If not, you might want to get the dash back out before you crack it, and you will want to bend the lower mounting nuts on the brace up to meet the car's side brackets (I have the driver's side against the bracket and the passenger's about an inch below... Need to get a vise so I can get it bent right).

86_irocz-28

I put the caps in but theres still a slight gap that i need to figure something out for that. And i put jack stands under neath the dash till i get out to upullit tomorrow. Ive been debating on using it or not right now the factory switch isnt even working dunno why but while im out at u pull it ill see if theres another camaro out there with that button also the far pass. side air vent and hvac controls and fuse panel if you still need them

86_irocz-28

Update for the day console is in got the floor sanded painted got the dash brace in glove box mounted.

95Cam86Roc

iTrader: (2)

Subscribing

86_irocz-28

So carpet is in im going to look at a complete set of seats there from a 93-02 camaro three rips in the drivers seat before i get them can a upholestry shop recover the bottom seat or do they have to recover the whole seat? also who votes for me to attempt the 4th gen door panels?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Flip the seat over. There are 4 bolts holding the track on. Then take the side plastic cover off of the recliner mechanism and there are, I believe, 2 bolts holding the hinges to the lower part of the seat (on each side). Take it to the shop and ask "How much to recover this?". Done. All of the hard stuff will already be done for them (other than removing the seat upholstery), so it shouldn't be to excessive.

:edit: Also, I bought a hatch button off of eBay... Finally found one for less than $10 shipped.

86_irocz-28

cool thanks and did you still want those ac/heater controls? the far heater duct was already gone off the car when i went back

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Actually, I don't think I'll worry too much about the far duct... Once I get the 4th gen heater box in, it should press the main duct into the dash hard enough to seal right. Seems kind of weird that there doesn't seem to be a bolt hole on the main duct over there to help hold it to the side duct.
PM me about the heater controls.

86_irocz-28

Should update this thread the interior is done minus a headliner and dash pad, I wound up getting some deluxe door panels from a 89 trans am, all interior plastic from my old 86 sc that i found at a local junkyard anyways pics. For more pics on the car or progress, the build thread is in my sig, again thanks to everybody for the help.

Faded

What did you do about the dash side mounts? The drivers side one is right in the way of the hood release.

86_irocz-28

i just ripped the whole hood release assembly since i have hood pins on the hood


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AceBoogie!

i plan on doing this on my 91 z28 convertible

86_irocz-28

Dash has been dyed to match the rest of the interior used duplicolor prep spray and the vinyl/fabric semigloss black also got the dash cap trimmed and on(still needs dyed to match) keep in mind there is a lot of trimming involved in this measure in a few places from window to dash draw line and cut a little behind it trim as needed little by little next is to get the a pillars and blend then into the third gen ones. Also going to keep the cap held down with industrial strength velcrow

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Are you going to be putting the hush panels (under the dash, down by the feet) in, and if so, have you done so yet? I'm wondering if your gaps are as ridiculous as mine. I think I must have a good 3" or so between the end of my panels and where the 3rd gen ones ended by the pedals (on the driver's side... pass side won't be going in until I get the ECM bracket taken care of ). And how are you holding up the back of the passenger's side panel?

86_irocz-28

I dont have those since the one that i got the dash out of they were missing i was thinking of utalizing the third gen ones but cant seem to find them or maybe a mix of the two molded together on yours what are you using to hold the dash cap down to the dash im thinking of using industrial strength velcro also are you using straight 4th gen a pillars?

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Wow that looks good. I wanna do it one day to my car but I just got it running and want to drive it for awhile before any downtime again.

86_irocz-28

downtime was about two days due to trying to figure out the wiring plus figuring out how to mount it and what i needed however with this thread you should be able to do it in a day