firebird904

Mine is very inaccurate one minute it reads full the next it reads half tank then it goes from half tank to the E when it's getting low on fuel. Is there a way to determine if the gauge itself is bad or the sender?

rdhanded2

iTrader: (3)

Climb under the car and reach above and front of the differential and unplug the 3-prong connector. It is on the metal where the back seat is. Take a paperclip or wire and insert it in the connector half on the wall in the slots where the pink and black wires go. Turn the key on and check the gauge. If it reads empty, your gauge is good and so is the wiring from the tank forward. If not, you either have a gauge or wiring problem somewhere. Good luck!

rusty vango

mine was wonky like that,until i found ,under the RR seat a ground wire coming from the thru body plug there that needed cleaning. it solved my problem

blakecharles

+1 on this

rdhanded2

iTrader: (3)

Glad I could help!

rusty vango

most likely ,you need a new sending unit for your tank.while you got it out id throw a new fuel pump in too

omnipotentgoku

iTrader: (1)

Its a thirdgen, you will need a new sending unit eventually and will be faced with "do I cut ahole in the hatch area, or do I drop the exhaust and gas tank. May time be with you.

chrispy383

Use a power prob and wiring diagram, take the power prob to the signal wire on the end of the harness going to the car and swith the polarity back and forth from posative to negative and your gauge should max out from full to empty. If yours does not do this, the problem is not the sender its the gauge or the wiring. To test the wiring use a digital volt ohm meter, and check the ohms between the pigtail at the tank where the wires go into the car, and the other end of each wire witch the wiring diagram will also show. The ohms should read zero, if any one wire tests out with more than zero ohms it has a break, back trace it and repair the break. If all wires test out at zero ohms than that only leaves a bad gauge. Hope this can help you out.