Headlight switch
#4
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Re: Headlight switch
it tells you
THen there's a plastic nut that holds it into the dash, looks like you would use a large screwdriver with a notch in it. Very simple.
i looked at a dash i had in my garage and thats it, pull the **** off, then there is a plastic nut behind where the **** was,loosen and remove it and thats that
THen there's a plastic nut that holds it into the dash, looks like you would use a large screwdriver with a notch in it. Very simple.
i looked at a dash i had in my garage and thats it, pull the **** off, then there is a plastic nut behind where the **** was,loosen and remove it and thats that
#5
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Car: 1986 camaro z28
Engine: 350sbc
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: stock axle with 4.11's
Re: Headlight switch
its more difficult then just that...my plastic **** broke off that holds the light switch i had to take panel off dash so i could turn off headlights...i have new plastic **** but cant get old one out of switch need to take switch out but only way i see that is possible is to tear the entire dash apart to pull the light switch assemble completely out of the car...i think that is what he is also asking...how do you get the hole assembly out of the dash
#6
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Re: Headlight switch
ive already got a dash out of a car, it looks like after you pull the gauge cluster you can unplug it and pull it out of the hole at the left of the inside cluster area. heres some pics
hope this helps
hope this helps
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Car: 1984 Firebird (89 Formula Clone)
Engine: 357
Transmission: m29 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt Borg Warner.
Re: Headlight switch
Does that whole cluster come out in one piece or whats the process in that?
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#8
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Car: Camaro Z28
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Re: Headlight switch
Yes, that whole cluster comes out in one piece, warning though, if you look at the picture above ^^ you see a black disc in the pic that has the light switch towards you, if you dont care then you can just break it off, otherwise I recommend you find a way to take it off w/o busting it, I did that to my switch and busted it. so just a little fyi for you to think of.
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Car: 1984 Firebird (89 Formula Clone)
Engine: 357
Transmission: m29 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt Borg Warner.
Re: Headlight switch
How exactly is the gauge cluster held in there? i have two screws out on the top it moves but is attached at the bottom somehow, all i see though is the plastic screws that hold in the plastic over the gauges.
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Car: 1984 Firebird (89 Formula Clone)
Engine: 357
Transmission: m29 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt Borg Warner.
Re: Headlight switch
Yeah thanks, i got the cluster out. Just wonder what the best way to get this switch out..
#12
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
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Re: Headlight switch
It helps to remove the panel under the steering wheel. If you push in on the little spring loaded button on the bottom of the switch. it releases the shaft and ****. Its now easier to pull out either down and then unplug, or unplug first and then out thru the side where the cluster used to be. Oh yeah, unscrew the plastic nut holding in in from the front first!
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Car: 1984 Firebird (89 Formula Clone)
Engine: 357
Transmission: m29 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt Borg Warner.
Re: Headlight switch
Oh okay that makes more sense, i just took off the ****, so that plastic nut just unscrews?
#14
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
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Re: Headlight switch
Yeah, just use a wide flat bladed screwdriver. A little easier if you take the shaft out first, sometimes you have to squeeze that little button kind of hard to get the shaft to release.
#16
Re: Headlight switch
Do you know what works really good to take off that black plastic nut?
A beer tab on a pair of needle nose pliers. Use the back side where you stick your thumb under it. Life is good for an alcoholic after all.
A beer tab on a pair of needle nose pliers. Use the back side where you stick your thumb under it. Life is good for an alcoholic after all.
#17
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Re: Headlight switch
I found this thread helpful for getting my headlight switch out, so I'd like to add a little information to it.
On my 1986 IROC I was able to get the switch out without removing the dash or cover. I removed the instrument cluster as shown above, and was able to eventually fuss the switch out through that hole (as shown above) with the wiring still connected. Then I was able to disconnect the wires. There was no type of clip or release on my wiring connection, just a tight friction fit. If I had tried I might have been able to remove the wiring connector before fishing the switch through the hole, but I was afraid there was a hidden clip that I would break.
You have to remove the shaft and ****, but it's not necessary to remove the **** from the shaft.
But no matter how hard I pushed up on that spring pin on the bottom, I couldn't get the shaft to release. The trick is this--I had the switch in the off position when I started my pushing and pulling. Pull the switch all the way out, to the full "on" position, then depress the spring.
The plastic nut can be seen in the photo above surrounding the shaft. That's basically all that's holding the switch. A plastic nut with plastic threads (male) threading into a steel female connection in the switch housing. Considering how stout the switch is, this seems a fairly delicate connection so be careful applying any force to the switch before you unthread this nut.
I happened to have a bizarre screwdriver with a half inch wide blade, otherwise the beer tab just may be the trick. You will definitely need a non-standard tool to unthread that plastic nut.
Disconnect battery. Remove instrument panel, switch **** & shaft, switch pod cover, plastic nut, then you may be able to fish the switch thru the hole for easy access to the wiring connection. I think that sums up my experience.
On my 1986 IROC I was able to get the switch out without removing the dash or cover. I removed the instrument cluster as shown above, and was able to eventually fuss the switch out through that hole (as shown above) with the wiring still connected. Then I was able to disconnect the wires. There was no type of clip or release on my wiring connection, just a tight friction fit. If I had tried I might have been able to remove the wiring connector before fishing the switch through the hole, but I was afraid there was a hidden clip that I would break.
You have to remove the shaft and ****, but it's not necessary to remove the **** from the shaft.
But no matter how hard I pushed up on that spring pin on the bottom, I couldn't get the shaft to release. The trick is this--I had the switch in the off position when I started my pushing and pulling. Pull the switch all the way out, to the full "on" position, then depress the spring.
The plastic nut can be seen in the photo above surrounding the shaft. That's basically all that's holding the switch. A plastic nut with plastic threads (male) threading into a steel female connection in the switch housing. Considering how stout the switch is, this seems a fairly delicate connection so be careful applying any force to the switch before you unthread this nut.
I happened to have a bizarre screwdriver with a half inch wide blade, otherwise the beer tab just may be the trick. You will definitely need a non-standard tool to unthread that plastic nut.
Disconnect battery. Remove instrument panel, switch **** & shaft, switch pod cover, plastic nut, then you may be able to fish the switch thru the hole for easy access to the wiring connection. I think that sums up my experience.
Last edited by DerrenZ; 11-22-2010 at 03:03 PM. Reason: Correct sequence.
#18
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Car: 92camaro,86 camaro
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Re: Headlight switch
i found out that is easier to take the saft out if you pull the shaft out ones than push the button
#21
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Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Re: Headlight switch
I'm new to the 3rd gen camaro scene and have an 85 Z28 "Project" goin on. What amazes me is the complexity of simple preoblems like the light switsh removal/replacement.
I've started to run my own wiring for the problems I've had with my Z. Fuel pump, hatch release, cooling fans (I have three!),and may look at the headlight issue as well. I have no power at the headlights or parking lights. Fuses are good. Turn, stop, and hazards work fine.
Should I just run all new wiring or try to troubleshoot the problem? I like the hi beam on the column or it would be a no brainer to just wire a toggle of some sort for lights.
Suggestions ?
I've started to run my own wiring for the problems I've had with my Z. Fuel pump, hatch release, cooling fans (I have three!),and may look at the headlight issue as well. I have no power at the headlights or parking lights. Fuses are good. Turn, stop, and hazards work fine.
Should I just run all new wiring or try to troubleshoot the problem? I like the hi beam on the column or it would be a no brainer to just wire a toggle of some sort for lights.
Suggestions ?
#23
Re: Headlight switch
Can you post a picture of the plastic nut that has to be removed please?
#24
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
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Re: Headlight switch
Just follow the shaft of the light switch in the picture to that round gray part that the other end of the shaft disappears into. That's it. See those four radial grooves in the front of it? That's how it unscrews
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