MaverickRV7

Hello fellow Camaro enthusiasts!

I’m reaching out for some advice on my project, a pristine 1992 25th Anniversary Camaro Z28. Last year, I became the proud owner of this beauty, but it’s in need of a “freshen up” due to years of sitting idle.

To set the scene, this Camaro is a snapshot of mid-90s modifications: it boasts 17” Firehawk wheels, upgraded suspension, a larger front sway bar, subframe connectors, and unique lift bars replacing the torque arm. Under the hood lies the original L98 TPI engine, enhanced with Accel fuel injection, a Paxton supercharger, Dart heads, an Erson cam, and more. While it runs okay, there’s room for improvement.

My goal is to maximize what I have while making smart updates. The focus is more on road performance than drag racing, balancing handling with straight-line speed to create an enjoyable, well-rounded driving experience.

Here’s my dilemma: Should I undertake an LS swap, or is it better to refine and upgrade the existing setup? I’m eager to hear your thoughts and suggestions, especially from those who’ve navigated similar decisions.

Appreciate your insights!

• Sean

topduarte

iTrader: (8)

Is the paint and interior original? If so keep it as much as original imo.

Komet

I would start by figuring out what you have to work with, probably focusing on fixing broken parts you find since it sounds like a lot of upgrades have been done and those might not need any attention. Replace all the fluids, inspect all your rubber components for cracking and wear. Check the date codes on the tires, replace if they're old. Nut and bolt check all the upgrade work, it may have been done by amateurs. Buy a fire extinguisher, keep it in the car for a while at least.

Since your engine is custom, it's important to be able to make changes to your tune. Do you currently have the capability of datalogging and altering the tune? If not, I'd be looking into either getting set up to do that, or replacing it with a different setup that can do those things with modern equipment. A supercharged L98 running in top shape might be plenty of power for you.

I also didn't see any mention of upgraded braking to match the power. You might be interested in heading over to https://bigbrakeupgrade.com/ after getting your tune dialed in.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

#1 thing you can do to make that car handle better is get rid of those lift bars and go back to a torque arm.

When you say it runs okay, do you mean it needs a tune-up or is it just ho-hum performance to you? What kind of car would you like to keep up with?

There's something nostalgic cool about cars that still have all their mods from the '90s. Yeah, they're not that fast by today's standards but they're just so cool.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

You may need to dig into the ECM tuning if it is not running that well. I assume it has a custom chip? If not, all those mods are not really doing anything. I second the torque arm.

MaverickRV7

Thank you for all the replies.

Yes, original interior and most of the paint. Interior in fantastic shape. Hood and bumpers have been repainted. I would rate very good.

The car had a big brake upgrade from the 90’s one of the first… I forgot the name but it s well know.

The accel DFI is old and trash, the car deserves and needs a tune so probably goinvv go ing to replace with MSD unit.

Thank you for letting me know about the lift bars. Never seen anything like them. South side machine. South side machine sub frame connectors. The car is sold. Doors are perfect.

it’s a very neat time capsule and it will be lots of fun.

Keep the info coming.

I am leaning towards keeping the L98 set up stock looking ish with the Paxton.

MaverickRV7

MaverickRV7

MaverickRV7

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Might have some Baer brakes up front. Basically a C4 Corvette caliper package with 12" rotors.

That's a nice car, man. I'd go back to a stockish looking shifter personally. That shifter was a tacky choice even in the '90s.

Those wheels are very sought after by Firebird owners and have a street value of about $3,000 right now. It's been a looooong time since I've seen a set with red accents for sale.

It's possible that car might have a rare Eibach drag kit. If there's an airbag in one of the rear springs then that's probably what it is. Also unattainable today and somebody would pay you good money for it.

MaverickRV7

You got it. It’s a bear brake kit with the modified spindles.

hotkis performance springs. Trailing arms. Big Gm sway bar upfront.

I love the wheels and think I will have them refinished real nice.

topduarte

iTrader: (8)

Really like the rims.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Id also say, ditch the lift bars but keep the rocker panel subframe connectors that came with them. That's what is on my car and love em.

I can see 3 interior choices I'd change right off the bat, the extra gauges aren't one of them.

Becareful with the wheels, any screw ups and the value goes in the toilet. They look good as-is imo. They used a satin type of clear, not super glossy.

Drivetrain, keep it as is but update the ecm, much better options these days. Not sure who has "the best" but i see a few good ones floating around all the time.
looks like a killer car, enjoy it!

Double

Pretty cool you just posted this as I was wondering what happened to the car. I remember it was for sale just outside of St Louis and one of my favorite color combo's.

I agree with the others, leave the L98, replace the shifter and clean up the little things you prefer to change. Very nice car!

What state are you from?

MaverickRV7

Thank you, I am in Plano, TX

I am very pleased with the car and the objective is to have a great street cruiser not embarrass myself, handle well and just have fun. I know I am not going to run down any LS cars.

Got my Dyno Don headers in September. I am considering going with a first intake and MSD brain.

Additionally because of the left bars, would like to go with a new front and rear suspension kit?..

shifter recommendations?

keep the ideas coming?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Your Hotchkis springs are fine. Nice balance of smoother ride with some lively cornering.
Koni struts (front) and shocks (rear) if you're in the market for new. If you have older Bilstein struts then those can be re-valved to whatever you want. The Bilstein housings are strong and sought after (by people in the know).

Honestly, a stock torque arm would be fine for you. Here is link to most the aftermarket choices, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...s-3rd-gen.html
Those same companies also have lower control arms for rear axle, which you'll need after ditching the lift bars.

You'll want a steering brace if you don't have one already. The bees knees of steering braces is the Detroit Speed. It literally braces at the steering box. Most people use a cheaper brace from Top Down Solutions patterned off the GM "Wander Bar" that spans across the lower radiator support in front of the steering box area. Helpful for sure, but not as proper as what Detroit Speed does.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Accel (Lingenfelter) Super Ram for the win.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/alte...am-vs-tpi.html

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I can't remember, does that SSM lift bar setup also eliminate the panhard bar? Or is that still in tact on your car?

MaverickRV7

This is great!

The shocks are not bilstien and they need replacing. The car does has a panhard bar but no rear sway bar.

hotkins trailing arms and panhard bar on the car.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Detroit Speed and Hellwig are the only two rear sway bars with adjustable spring rates (that I know of). Detroit Speed is 2 position. Hellwig is kind of a continuous slider. All the other usual brands of rear sway bars are not adjustable. If you're gong to spend the money anyway.... well, I'd get the adjustable!

And right now 99.8% of the people here are thinking, Hellwig makes stuff for our cars?!?

This thread was perfect made for us old farts that owned 3rd gens thru the 1990's.

vorteciroc

Rear Suspension, Rear Suspension, Rear Suspension, Rear Suspension, Rear Suspension, Rear Suspension!

MaverickRV7

Here is the engine. Also on the rear suspension, the lift bars are welded to the axel…. Grind them off?

The lift bars are welded to the rear axel…. Grind them off?

B4CYA

Your car is a perfect time capsule from the 90s. Im with the rest of the guys in here. Just refine the awesome combo you already have. There are plenty of LS swapped cars out there. Enjoy this one for what it is.

As for the lift bars, yes you will have to grind the brackets off the rear end. Hopefully they didnt mess with the original brackets. Shoot a picture of the rear end. A few local guys did lift bars around here back in the day because they installed 8.8s in their cars and didnt want to make a torque arm mount. So the lift bars solved that problem for them.

MaverickRV7

Here are the lift bars…

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Good lord, that must drive terribly. Not to mention unsafe.

Firechicken82

I remember seeing those advertised when I was a kid, never saw them on a car. Damn, those look terrible. I understand they're for straight line performance but damn! I couldn't imagine driving on the street w them. I assume there is a weld in x member they pivot on. I'd go back to the torque arm. I get one from spohn/umi/bmr. I bet the car is night and day better w one. It's a great looking car and w the mods it has I bet it could be pretty awesome. I just can't imagine what it's like driving w that setup. What's it like pulling into a driveway or parking lot. I'd do a new swaybar/torque arm and likely LCAs. Then some tuning. I bet you do that stuff it will rip, no need for a ls swap. So I bet it's fast, does it stop well? If not, I'd invest in that department.

cool car!

MaverickRV7

It rides like crap, not much in the handling department but I dont believe it’s unsafe. Set up as drag machine. Never felt unsafe. I agree I want improvements to be in line with the provenance of the car. But the lift bars got to go…

vorteciroc

Rear Suspension!

B4CYA

The main thing I never liked about the lift bars (other than their total lack of adjustability) is their recommendation to keep stock lower control arms in place. If you do this, you have 2 conflicting suspension arcs working against eachother. It will make the ride terrible and cause the suspension to bind. The lift bars function similar to ladder bars without the adjustability. If you arent going to race the car i would put a stock torque arm back on it and cut the lift bars off in a heartbeat. If you do want to race it, get yourself a nice adjustable torque arm, some lower control arm relocation brackets and some good adjustable lower control arms.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

That's a good looking car! Red on White is one of my all-time faves! ...Definitely want to sort out that rear axle situation, and get the car rolling right! As for engine, I'd probably keep the L98/blower combo as is. I would want to upgrade the engine management, but that should still be a real fun combo. Me? I get a manual in there too, but I know it's not for everyone.