newguy93

like the title says can someone tell me if my car is an actual iroc if so can you tell me alittle about it? thank you

topduarte

iTrader: (8)

Post VIN and rpo sticker

B4CYA

The best way to tell is post a picture of the SPID label. Depending on the year it will be inside the console or on the inside of the lid in the locking compartment on the rear driver side hatch area.

The year of the car would help a lot too. I can see from the pictures you have a 90-92 steering wheel and no high mount 3rd brake light the rear window. So it definitely had some modifications.

newguy93

thank you for your reply…. im not sure what a SPID is? but what i know is it is a 1990 iroc with 305 tuned port injection… he claims its pretty bone stock

Edwardgp

You need to post your vin number to start learning about your Camaro/ IROC ?

vinny R

Flip up your center console lid and the SPID/RPO sticker is on the inside. take a pick and post it in this thread. Below is a sample of what it looks like.

newguy93

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Yes, you have an IROC-Z. RPO Z8 for your year is an IROC, Also, your engine and suspension were only on IROCs.

newguy93

thanks chazman for the reply… now aanother question…. what do you recommend i do to make it faster? its currently a 305 tpi stock….my mechanic said something about headers? im not familiar woth engines and parts

chazman

iTrader: (4)

My thoughts are before headers, make sure the engine is in a great state of tune with a tune up. After that are all the "free" and "cheap" mods like bumping initial timing.

newguy93

ok thanks im going to tell my mechanic that…. i asked him the same question (what can i do to make a little faster) he suggested getting an ls3 swap… to me that sounds extreme and expensive lol

okfoz

for 1990, an LB9 means it is an IROC. The RS with the TPI for Police service was not released until 1991.

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you need a new mechanic who understands old cars. Or, better yet, start learning and wrenching on it yourself.

Searching the forums you'll find lots of discussions on this subject. But, as was previously stated, make sure all of the tune-up stuff (plugs, wires, cap/rotor, timing, etc) is good, no check engine lights and the motor runs as it should. That's the baseline before any mods. That LB9 305 has the small 2.25" single converter exhaust and 2.73 rear end. If you are looking to do some mods to wake it up, I would be going after both of those. Change everything from the exhaust manifolds to the tailpipes with a full 3" system either with the HO manifolds or headers and change the rear gears to a 3.42. That will make it feel like a different car.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

I don't think swapping to a modern LS3 is bad advice, but rather your mechanic didn't ask you enough questions. Goals, Budget, etc. etc.... Here's the thing about most mechanics, and keep in mind I don't know your mechanic, BUT.... ....He might be a great mechanic, knowing all kinds of general wrenching knowledge about working on cars, etc. etc., but that in no way means that he knows what to do specifically with OUR cars. ...and modifying is an entirely different game than repairing a stock vehicle that perhaps just isn't running right.

The LS3 is pretty much the agreed upon modern go to engine for reliability, performance, and (relative) cost. I "think" it's a smidge under $10k, for the engine, before you even start thinking about labor, transmission, computer, and all the other little bits. Most dealers sell LS3 with a manual or automatic, computer and "non" car specific parts for about $16k, but again....no labor.

You can definitely do MUCH MUCH less expensive mods, but keep in mind they'll also provide MUCH MUCH less performance. I'm gonna say something here that I KNOW is gonna start an argument, but it's just my opinion. Having owned, driven and modified several thirdgens, done every "bolt on" mod that you're likely to hear recommended, and also having owned and driven many modern performance cars, at 47, I feel like I do have some experience. I say leave it alone, or go for that LS3 (or something equivalent). In my opinion, the minor to moderate performance upgrades just aren't worth the time or money, especially once you factor in reliability. ...and if you DO make a few mods, you'll be happy....for awhile....but eventually you'll be $5000 dollars in, you'll be chasing minor nagging issues, and you'll say why didn't I....."leave it stock" ....or "just swap in an LS"

That's definitely not my advice to everyone across the board, but to someone new to these cars, new to hot rodding, and (no disrespect intended) but sounds like will be paying someone to do the work.....I just think those are the options I'd recommend.

I say this with the context of the fact that you (we) love these 40 year old cars, most of which make well under 200 horsepower. Ya didn't buy it to go street racing for pink slips. It ain't fast. You can add 30 horsepower and still get smoked by mom's minivan. For me it goes back to what you wanna do with the car. Hopefully you didn't buy it because you wanna go fast, lol.

...since I typically don't take my own advice, and you probably won't either, I WILL throw out an idea which is what I would do if I found myself back in your shoes. Swap in a manual T5 transmission, and possibly a new set of rear gears. But at least the transmission. I'd rather drive a 4 cylinder with a manual than a V8 with an auto any day of the week. It'll make the car more fun than any bolt on power you can find, probably cost less in the long run and should be more reliable.

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

I was reacting to the common "Just do an LS swap" that gets thrown around all the time without really understanding the goals of the modifications or the complexity of actually doing it. I'm in agreement with this advice though. Leave it alone, or do a couple of easy mods (exhaust & gears) and enjoy it. Still won't be fast, but will feel faster and sounds good (I'd be fine with this, but that's just me). If the OP is looking for significantly more power, then yes, pick your flavor of LS and do the swap over a traditional SBC build. As was stated though, going down this road is going to be $10's of thousands of dollars if you are paying a mechanic to do it (and hopefully they know what they are doing and don't leave you with an unfinished basketcase after taking your money). That's up to the OP whether he thinks its worth spending that kind of money for the gain. Before paying someone to do an LS swap, I'd just buy a nice 4th gen with an LS1.

SbFormula

If I may,

A quick search on TGO or Google for that matter will reveal a wealth of information. It has been THE question for over 3 decades.

Komet

If you don't want engine tinkering to be your hobby, you should not try to make someone else make your car faster. Fix the things that are wrong with it and drive it.