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History / OriginalityGot a question about 1982-1992 Camaro or Firebird history? Have a question about original parts, options, RPO codes, when something was available, or how to document your car? Those questions, answers, and much more!
I brought the whole family out in the wagon as the third gens are still located out of state. It's unfortunate that we weren't able to chat, hopefully next opportunity.
I'm going to say no. The one you pictured is one terminal and is almost certainly ground switched. This is likely used for the low oil pressure idiot light.
The one you need is two terminal and carries the 12 volt hot source, provided the switch is closed.
Not only do you need to make sure it's a two terminal switch, you also need to make sure it's a normally open switch.
Weird because the one I first saw said 1 terminal and shown 1 terminal.
Looking at it again, it would appear correct as it's shown as 2 terminals. It doesn't state if it's a normally open switch but I'm inclined to assume that it is. Therefore, it should work as long as your wire harness connector matches.
I have noticed that my Formula sits higher than my IROCs. Especially compared to my black G92 '89, which has the shortest computer selected springs. Shocks and springs are original on the Formula.
Does it actually sit up higher as measured from the floor to the peak of the wheel arch or just look higher because Formulas don't have lower GFX? I've noticed Formulas right next to Trans Ams and GTAs look like they sit higher even though they all had WS6 suspensions.
Does it actually sit up higher as measured from the floor to the peak of the wheel arch or just look higher because Formulas don't have lower GFX? I've noticed Formulas right next to Trans Ams and GTAs look like they sit higher even though they all had WS6 suspensions.
This car seems to get happier and happier with every mile. I think it really likes the Mobil 1 synthetic oil I just put in it. It had what appeared to be fresh oil, but who knows what it was. Certainly the cheapest available, judging by the chinzy and tiny Carquest oil filter. Is it the excercise? Is it the Seafoam? Is it the fancy new Shell Premium gas with "Nitro +". A combo of all?
Up until recently, it just felt sluggish beyond 4,000 RPM, (actually 3,500 on the way home the day I bought it), like why even bother going beyond that? Now it pulls to it's 4500-5000 RPM redline, happily. Haven't even tuned it up yet. You can hear that '84 Tran Am cowl induction I installed, too!
Still lots of work to do, but it's starting to cooperate a bit.
I tried jumping that one, just to see if the in tank fuel pump would come on. I got a shock and the fan came on.
Did you verify the colors were 100% exact? Which wires did you jump? Sounds like you jumped the orange to a Black with Red, which goes to the cooling fan. Due to the higher load of the fan, jumping those two wires directly it would have sparked.
The cooling fan relay will have very similar wires but one of them will be a Black with Red and another is Dark Green with White(?) (based on what I've found but subject to error) but will also have the same Orange and Tan with White as the fuel pump relay. I didn't see a Black with Red wire there but, again, I can't verify from that picture to be 100%.
The ones you can jump are the Tan with White to the Orange, but make sure it's in the Fuel Pump Relay with the wire colors I previously stated. That will provide power from your FP/Inj2 10 AMP fuse to the fuel pump.
The orange (12v + ) wire and tan/white wire in the fuel pump relay plug are the same two wires found at the oil pressure switch, so when you jump those two wires it should run the fuel pump as well as activate the choke relay and that in turn supply power to your choke coil. The choke light on the dash should also go out as soon as you jump the wires. (assuming its lit when the key on & not jumped) Under normal use, the fuel pump relay is only energized during engine cranking & the oil pressure switch takes over suppling the power after start up. So thats a great testing point too if getting at the oil pressure switch plug is difficult.
The orange (12v + ) wire and tan/white wire in the fuel pump relay plug are the same two wires found at the oil pressure switch, so when you jump those two wires it should run the fuel pump as well as activate the choke relay and that in turn supply power to your choke coil. The choke light on the dash should also go out as soon as you jump the wires. (assuming its lit when the key on & not jumped) Under normal use, the fuel pump relay is only energized during engine cranking & the oil pressure switch takes over suppling the power after start up. So thats a great testing point too if getting at the oil pressure switch plug is difficult.
Let us know what happens
Yes, it's a good spot to check the oil pressure switch. The choke heater relay was also a good point since Charlie was in the area but the fuel pump relay is likely closer (in wiring) to the oil pressure switch to help reduce the possibility of a broken or bad connection that can mislead where the problem is.
A better test would be to use a volt meter. With the car running, disconnect the fuel pump relay and put the test meter's positive lead on the tan with white wire and the negative lead on a good ground. Expect to see battery/charging voltage if the oil pressure switch is working and making contact (as it should). Using a test lamp is better to ensure the circuit can carry a load, but a test meter is better than nothing.
Nothing has transformed the exterior more on this car than the new window sweeps. They did require some modification. Three holes on each side had to be re-drilled or enlarged. They also came bent when shipped, leaving these bumps on each side.
Hawks really needs to improve the way they ship fragile parts.
Yeah, a bit disappointing, since the parts are nice but just shipped poorly. I had that long conversation last year with Bruce about what our expectations might be in this thread here. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/hist...wks-today.html
I did shoot him a PM though. Stuff like this is an unforced error.
But getting back to someone’s comment regarding the Formula’s ride height. Yes it sits higher than my IROCs. 1” higher than my ‘89 G92 with the lower 1LE coded springs and 1/2” higher than the other 2 IROCs.
Don't lose the center caps from either set. A cap might show up on ebay occasionally, otherwise they're virtually irreplaceable. They're plastic, and the face is skinned with very thin aluminum that can get dented. The aluminum face is secured to the plastic by wrapping around the edge. If necessary, the edge can be pried up all the way around and the skin lifted off. There's no adhesive.
When these wheels could still be found in junkyards, if a cap was there, then I'd grab it, because ya never know.
Now that you have an extra set, you can get one set refinished. It doesn't take much for the original clearcoat to lift.
Don't lose the center caps from either set. A cap might show up on ebay occasionally, otherwise they're virtually irreplaceable. They're plastic, and the face is skinned with very thin aluminum that can get dented. The aluminum face is secured to the plastic by wrapping around the edge. If necessary, the edge can be pried up all the way around and the skin lifted off. There's no adhesive.
When these wheels could still be found in junkyards, if a cap was there, then I'd grab it, because ya never know.
Now that you have an extra set, you can get one set refinished. It doesn't take much for the original clearcoat to lift.
I'm probably going to sell the original set when I get them swapped.
Wish there was a better option for restoring original wheels. I don't understand why the wheel restoration companies can't clear them the same way the wheels are done in a production setting today.
Every restored wheel I have seen in person has way too thick of clear on them. Very easy to spot. new aftermarket wheels usually look like oem. whats the big secret?
Wish there was a better option for restoring original wheels. I don't understand why the wheel restoration companies can't clear them the same way the wheels are done in a production setting today.
Every restored wheel I have seen in person has way too thick of clear on them. Very easy to spot. new aftermarket wheels usually look like oem. whats the big secret?
Exactly. These wheels aren’t perfect but they are factory. You can see the machine grooves and the rainbow finish of the clear coat. I could re-do my old ones, but they’d never have the same look.
When I redid the GTA cross lace rims I never clear coated them because I thought they would not look right. Those rims you found look to be in pretty good shape at least.
When I redid the GTA cross lace rims I never clear coated them because I thought they would not look right. Those rims you found look to be in pretty good shape at least.
Thats exactly what I did with my 89 GTA, I zip stripped the 1" lip & polished just the bare lip. Turned out great. I think the GTA lace wheels are the exception. That lip
doesn't have the same look as the rest of the 3rd gen wheels. maybe they are machines a little different? Nice WS6 wheels by the way, thats a crazy cool find.
Thats exactly what I did with my 89 GTA, I zip stripped the 1" lip & polished just the bare lip. Turned out great. I think the GTA lace wheels are the exception. That lip
doesn't have the same look as the rest of the 3rd gen wheels. maybe they are machines a little different? Nice WS6 wheels by the way, thats a crazy cool find.
I spent hours sanding the lips down, then polishing and finally a top coat of metal protectant. They have held up well and only require the occasional polish etc. I also think the GTA wheels are the exception to this as well.
I've been driving the Formula around since the weather improved. Just a couple thoughts on the LG4, since it doesn't get much respect. Especially in revised, 1987 form, it's a smooth, torquey, willing motor. Consider it RPM limited though. Not much happening over 4,000-4,500 RPM. But below that, it a pleasure to drive. Even in 5th gear, with my 3.23 ratio, I can be cruising at 35 MPH with no need to downshift. It seems, no matter what gear you're in, you are right in the middle of the torque curve.
07-18-2023, 04:10 PM
