Bennyboy

Last year I purchased a 1984 Z28 from a guy that knew nothing about it.

​​​​​I began looking up the RPO codes and there are quite a few that I can't find info on and others that don't make sense.

I am trying to get the car as close to stock as I can and one of the codes is defined as "custom interior"

Also found other wierd stuff I didn't expect. Disc brakes all the way around, aluminum driveshaft and flywheel, higher compression. I made this account to get some knowledge on this and ask for information on the build list and ask if this car is kind of rare or run of the mill.

JT

iTrader: (1)

You mean code B18? Custom, on these applications, does not actually mean customized but instead was simply Camaro's term for the upgraded (from base) seats with headrest and nicer door panels.

GM did not keep track of options on top of options and these cars were mass produced so it's not often to come across something really "rare". Instead, gauge the car by its condition and the optional equipment it was ordered with.

GM Heritage has the 1984 order guide, and some RPO code definitions, in their Vehicle Information Kit linked below in a PDF format that will help you further:
https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...let-Camaro.pdf

scottmoyer

For an '84, I wouldn't say the car is rare, but it is well optioned. L69, TTops, 4 wheel disc brakes, engine oil cooler, rear hatch cover, AC, rear window defrost, posi...I think the car is a very good representation of what a Z28 should be in 1984.

Bennyboy

Also, someone did a rattle can paint job that I am currently removing. It seems that the original paint was red white and blue. The build list doesn't suggest any blue so it had me confused about that.

And I believe I'm missing the oil cooler. And the rear hatch cover. And a million other things. Never heard of the rear hatch cover. Can't find one on Google images. Anyone have a link?

JT

iTrader: (1)

Since the car is over 37 years old, and you don't appear to be the first owner, a lot can be done in that time to explain the differences between what the build lists and what you see.

D27, the option Scott mentions, adds a locking cover to the rear cargo area in the trunk well. This is not the same as the locking storage compartment located on the driver's side rear cargo area.

This is D27 as shown:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...at-option.html

Bennyboy

That is pretty sweet. Wish it was still there. I really appreciate all of the help. This is the first car I've ever attempted to restore myself. Used to work in a restoration shop but I was always directed on where to go next. When I bought the car it had a leaking freeze plug behind the bell housing so I pulled the engine. Glad I did because I found a lot of other problems. The strangest one is that someone had replaced the freeze plugs




Owner didn't know why it didn't run. Wrong intake. Wrong carb. Chopped wiring. Carburator held open with drywall screw. Had to try to save it

When I purchased it
before and had knocked every one into the block and left them there.

Here are some pics of the last year

69-er

Definitely been messed with over the years. It has a 85+ nose! Based on the engine compartment, I'll agree it was red but not with blue and white too. The engine pic with the Edelbrock items is what it looks like now? With the two barrel I wonder if someone just found any old engine to transplant. Do you know if the engine is original? I also wonder about the transmission. If it's original I thought the only gear ratio available was the 3.42. 3.73's were on the 5 speed cars. Someone correct me if I am wrong!

I wasn't aware of aluminum flywheels and driveshafts as well as the oil cooler as part of the L69 package. I have an original 83 L69 and the flywheel is a "lightweight" cast iron one but the driveshaft is steel and has no oil cooler. But, I just remembered there is an extra long length of steel tubing that goes to the power steering pump. It's routed along the bottom of the radiator IIRC. It's been off the road for several years; I am going by memory.

Bennyboy

The engine is how it looks now. When I pulled it out I was able to confirm that the casting numbers are correct for the l69. After I did a compression test to see if there was any life left i was amazed to find a fairly healthy engine. (No idea how). The previous owner claimed he did not know why it wouldn't run (I bought it from a shop in my town from a man that hand fabricated racecar chassis's. Pretty sure he knew what was up with it).

Once the engine was pulled I found a lot of miss match parts and needed repairs.

Needed a new intake, carburator, freeze plugs , harmonic balancer, distributor, engine mounts, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, freeze plugs removed from the water jackets, broke bolts removed from exhaust manifold.

Someone was using 2 layers of radiator hose as a torque arm bushing

​​​​​ 700r4 was swapped for a 350 turbo at some point ( at least they bought the conversion mount I guess)

A big problem was found immediately after getting it home. I had trailered it back and wanted to see if the engine would turn over. I grabbed a hot battery and set it in the car. At that time I discovered that the output on the alternator had been bolted to the frame in what I can only assume was a poorly thought out, overly complicated, attempt on my life.

After making new battery leads I thought about the rest of the wiring and found proof that there are people out there that haven't ever heard of electricity but somehow own cars.
I then found rust in the driver side floorpan.

At that point I probably should have gave up but I'm kind of dumb and make poor financial decisions.

Also the 3.73 gearing is what I was told. The aluminum stuff is confirmed. I have yet to remove the diff plate but the previous owner told me his dad bought it knew and it had "3.73 posi with a governor gate"

topduarte

iTrader: (8)

Red Neck Engineering at its best. No wonder these 3rd gens get the "Red Necks" and "mul*let" name.

"Owner didn't know why it didn't run. Wrong intake. Wrong carb. Chopped wiring. Carburator held open with drywall screw. Had to try to save it"

:Someone was using 2 layers of radiator hose as a torque arm bushing"

"At that time I discovered that the output on the alternator had been bolted to the frame in what I can only assume was a poorly thought out, overly complicated, attempt on my life."

"previous owner told me his dad bought it knew and it had "3.73 posi with a governor gate"

It is spelled "New" and WHAT THE HELL IS A GOVERNOR GATE???

Bennyboy

A regional term for the "weights" in the rear differential that "spin out" and "lock the car into posi".

Beware. If someone describes it like that there is a 95% chance the bumper is held on with drywall screws and you will have to rewire everything because some guy named Bubba wanted to " make er run" and did something insane and grounded the alternator to the frame of the car
Or maybe that's how it's really described and I just have bad luck. No mention of a governor gate in my Chilton manual though.

FinallyGotMyZ

I had some of the same issues when I bought mine eight years ago. The engraved VIN matches the one on the RPO sticker on the console lid, so it's an accurate record of what the car is supposed to have, but the car had some, shall we say, modifications made along the way. I was afraid that with all the changes that had been made to it, I had bought a Z28 clone or something that someone had started to build and gave up on. Wrong head unit, monocolor paint job like an IROC but no no IROC RPO code, correct five-spoke wheels but charcoal gray instead of light silver... it really is amazing what these cars through as they pass through the hands of their various owners. Slowly but surely, we're getting mine back to showroom condition.