C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

Greetings all...

My father owns a 1989 IROC 5.7L with some modifications. The car has been sitting in the driveway for the past 5 or 6 years undriven.

I purchased a house with a garage and the car is mine if I want it. The car has 140,000khms on the odometer and has never been driven in the winter. However it does require some work...

Body work, paint, wheels need refinishing, tires... and perhaps a rebuild and or new seals/gaskets. The car tends to stall if left to idle and blows blue smoke on startup. The engine issues are the reason the car has been sitting. My Dad lost interest I suppose.

Anyway, car has SLP upgrades... Headers, runners, exhaust. Any thoughts on where to start? I'm no mechanic.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

I believe posting pictures would be the best place to start.

After that, I'd suggest that you concentrate on the mechanicals. Get the car running well, then focus your efforts on cosmetics & upgrades.

First, the blue smoke. That one is easy: Valve guide seals. They need to be replaced. It may or may not be a DIY job, it all depends on your skill level and your confidence. It's a rather involved job if you're not used to that sort of thing. Doing a search here should uncover plenty of "how-to" info.

As for stalling, that could be a few things and that will require more investigation. Your best bet there is to start a new post specific to that problem in the most appropriate tech forum.

Moving on, once you get it where you want mechanically, then you can start to address the paint & body, and while that's under way, you can deal with the wheels & tires, interior, and whatever else you're interested in upgrading.

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

Pictures... Right, better late then never I suppose.

PAFORM350

wanna sell it?

85f-bird

Unless there's something hidden under it, lots o rust, or a terrible interior...It looks like a repaint, and a clean up! I'd do so, and rock it out. However, if you'd like to get rid of it in sub say...thousand dollar territory, i might be able to help you out

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Nice! The SLP exhaust is pretty cool too.

TheGr8erG00d

iTrader: (2)

Keep us updated on it. I'm working on an 89 Iroc myself, although mine is the 5.0. I've got chipping clear coat too, but my 90,000 original mile engine and freshly rebuilt transmission are running like brand new. Mine is a Georgia car without any rust as well, a lucky find in the middle of the midwest. I'm saving up for a repaint and for small interior/exterior odds and ends like wheel caps and such.

scottmoyer

The paint burn is a common thing. My neighbors 89 was the same way until he got it painted last year. The car is gorgeous now.

Jason E

Damn, Scott, I need to live in your neighborhood! I've always liked dark metallic IROCs with gold accents.

What's, say, the average cost to repaint a car these days? My Trans Am looks a lot like the subject IROC, in that paint is chipping off the roof, hood, etc. I know when this is happening, its more money because they have to sand down the surfaces first...

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Oh my! Yes, your neighbor's car is gorgeous.

tom3

That's the best year and version of the third gens in my opinion, and that mileage is not excessive. Very good project there. And the price is right.

Camaro-454

iTrader: (1)

Yes, Yes, Yes. Tell your dad you want it. Nice looking car and a great engine for it too.

As stated before, blue smoke means you're burning oil. Valve stem guides, failing pistons rings. The oil is getting past the rings and the engine is hot so it's burning it. Easy fix. Address that issue, and then let the car run for awhile. This will help to loosen it up after sitting for so long without being run.

Give it a good tune up, change the oil, oil filter, check your pvc valve, check all your fluids and top them up, ( power steering, brake fliuid, anti-freeze, windshield washer fluid, treansmission fluid, and I've already mentioned the oil ), check all your hoses to make sure there's no holes or dry rot, replace any that need replacing, check for leaks, check all your ground connections, fuses, clean the battery posts, use a little vaseline on the posts and felt washers to keep corrosion away, and time it with a timing light.

The paint is secondary as stated. It just makes a good thing better and a good looking car is always a plus. As was said before take care of the mechanical things first, take your time, learn as you go, and it doesn't hurt to shop around first before you purchase your parts. Get the best deals you can but uses quality parts. You'll be glad that you did.

Also as stated before read up on every issue that you need to address so that you have a better understanding of how your car works and what each component does and how they work together as a whole. There's a ton of great informatiuon right here at your disposal, so definately take advantage of that and Do become mechanically inclined just from reading and learning from here and other sources.

www.carcraft.com............www.chevyhiperformance.com..................www.ls1.com,
www.les1tech.com, www.necamaro-firebird.com, www.camaroz28.com, are just a few websites that can offer you much information pertaining to your car, and right here in thirdgen are the specs for your year car, engine, and a little history on the subject.

Enjoy your build, enjoy your car, and welcome to thrid gen Camaro ownership. There's nothing like these cars ( in my humble opinion ), especially on dry roads, or the track.

Have fun with it bro.

Camaro-454

Camaro-454

iTrader: (1)

ok that should have read www.ls1tech.com. a typo on my part. *S*

Camaro-454

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

On the road again... well, sort of.

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

In the process of checking all the fluids and inspecting the PCV valve. The valve appears to be fine, I may just replace it anyway. However, the coolant bottle is cracked at the bottom. So I'll have to buy a new bottle and some coolant, but I'll get this darn thing running right... thanks for all the responses and tips so far.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

Beautiful car and a nice project. Almost identical to one I just picked up except the color. Please do this car justice and care for it. I've kept my eyes out for a nice IROC to restore for 8 years before I found one that was in good shape and unmolested. They're getting hard to find and now is the time to save them.

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

I am somewhat concerned at the moment. Is it a possibility that over the 5 or 6 years the car sat idle that gasoline could have migrated into the oil pan? When I checked the fluids, the oil smells strongly of gasoline and is very "runny" which is troubling, I understand the oil breaks down over time but I would not expect oil to smell like gas.

I plan on changing the oil this weekend before I attempt to run the car anyway. I will check the injectors with my multimeter once I can safely run the engine to check for a leaking or bad injector(s).


Ugh.

scottmoyer

Did anybody add any gas to the oil to thin it up since it's been sitting so long? I would think some Sea Foam would be a better option, but these things do happen.

puma1552

iTrader: (1)

Gas turns to varnish over time, so if it smells like gas, someone probably added gas to it, though not sure why someone would do that.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Oil does fun stuff when it sits for long periods of time. I wouldn't worry about it, just drain it and refill with fresh oil.

masonmills

Really looking forward to the build , She sure is pretty.

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

Completed a "cold" Ohm test on the fuel injectors. Cylinder 2 is reading low.

1 - 16
3 - 16.1
5 - 15.9
7 - 16

2 - 9
4 - 16
6 - 14.7
8 - 16

TheGr8erG00d

iTrader: (2)

6 Looks a little low, too. They should read between 15.8 and 16.8 (I could be off on those decimals). I just checked mine yesterday while chasing a fuel issue in my 89. I had three out of my eight injectors reading 12 or 13 ohms.

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

My apologies for the iPhone quality photo, it's raining and my garage is somewhat dark. Anyway, I thought this was cool...

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

I did a Trouble Code check tonight, I was getting a Code 51 - PROM Problem. I removed the PROM chip, and made sure it was seating correctly. I also verified the connections to the ECM.

I removed the negative battery connection for 15 minutes, reconnected and then started the car. The idle started to bounce all over the place, so I shut it down. The Code 51 cleared, but now I'm getting a Code 12.

scottmoyer

Code 12 is what you want. It flashes 12 at the beginning and end of the error code display. If you got nothing but 12's, then the error codes all cleared.

Camaro Z Man

Nice project. Love the hard tops !

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

I received a new set of 22lb fuel injectors from FIC lastweek. I removed the throttle body and I'm in the process of cleaning it. I may replace the TPS and IAC while I have it off the plenum.

Here's to hoping the rest of the job is as easy...

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

I ordered a new fuel regulator, EGR, TPS and IAC. Parts should be in tomorrow. I have to admit, I'm really excited to get everything back together.

KMK454

What are you doing with that SLP 2OTL exhaust? Nice car...

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

What a mess. It looks like I have some cleaning to do before I reassemble. The last bolt on the fuel rail was stripped.

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

I finally removed the last bolt on the fuel rail. After trying many options, eventually I had to drill the top of the bolt out.

I removed the passenger side runner easily. However, the driver side has an allen key snapped off inside the head of a lower bolt. I used a punch and spin the allen key sideways and remove it with pliers.

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

The car is back together and it starts right up. I have to adjust the new TPS tomorrow, the car is idling high, around 1500rpm.

I did notice a new issue. I have an exhaust leak on the passenger side header where it connects to the exhaust.

slowmaro87

what is that sticker and badge about???that looks factory?!? 6/90?!!!!!!!! unless im crazy that should really be looked into you may have a tester car or something on your hands($$$)

Motown

Well it says SLP right on the sticker...Im guessing it was put there by SLP.

slowmaro87

yes the sticker does but under the sticker ...theres a factory looking id tag..slp did use tester camaros that were not generally sold to public

johnnymotz27

I saw a white '91 z28 with the same SLP options. I think it may have been dealer installed options.

camarosrock1989

iTrader: (1)

Just ran across your post, beautiful Iroc! Even nicer that it was just given to you
Would love to see some interior shots.

Linson

what modifications does it have - other than what appears to be SLP Runners?

Linson

any mods other than those indicated on the SLP sticker? power or crank windows? whats the interior look like? any rust underneath?

if you want to keep it, then like another poster said, it could be just a re-paint and go type of project (depending on what you want out of it.) i would also highly recommend a modern stereo system if it doesnt already have one.

have you thought about selling it?

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

SLP as stated, headers, exhaust, and intake runners... 160DegF thermostat, and a manual override switch for the second radiator fan.

The car is not for sale. In fact, it is in the process of a full engine re-re, all stock minus an Edelbrock waterpump. The car has had a full brake job, and the fuel pump was replaced with a Holley unit.

The car has no rust, anywhere. It has never been driven in the rain, or snow. My dad had the car undercoated every year before winter when it was on the road. The interior is in good condition. The top of the rear seats are faded and there are a few small cracks in the dash. Power everything, including that stupid hatch motor that I have to replace. Ugh.

Refinishing the rims is next on my list, and I have a set of Firehawks in the garage.

Linson

i remember on my first Firebird (an '87) the hatch motor went out. i never fixed it - i just had to close the hatch a little harder. in retrospect, that beats the hell outta having to deal with a functioning hatch motor. you may want to just let it be - put that time, $$$, and energy towards refinishing those wheels.

C.Cannon

iTrader: (1)

C.Cannon

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cerberus

Keep it coming! Great pics!

travisgold

somebody was asking how much a paint job was now? Well I just got an estimate for my 1988 RS and maaco told me for a single stage paint job and lacer 1300 without and bodywork done to it i.e. rust removal, dints, and 1600 for a single stage and clearcoat, In July I am going in for the 1600 paint job I am assuming I will have to pay about 1800 since I have some surface rust and one dent... damn hockey kids next door with there damn hockey sticks.... So I don't know if you have a Maaco in ontario or not but thats most likely where you can get a nice affordable paint job also go for clearcoat way better then lacer

travisgold

also you mention about a hatch motor issue? well mine has or had the same issue (still occurs) there is a little button that the hatch hook will hit when it closes, locate the button take a small flat blade screw drive with a long shaft and press the button down and wait for the hatch motor to go all the way up and try closing the hatch NOT HARD everyone seems to slam the hatch down then it wiggles the motor housing apart close it as gently as possible and it should work great again. if not lubricate the tracks with some electric motor grease and tighten the motor to the rail.

cerberus

MAACO gets a bad rap here in the states because they will paint over anything and they dont do avery good paint prep. They didnt paint my 85, I dont know who did but its is amazing.

I did use MAACO to paint my jeeps as I didnt feel that an expensive paint job on a offroad vehicle is warranted.

I did all the prep work and removed all the chrome and other parts

From this:

By scotiapilot at 2010-09-23

To this:

By scotiapilot at 2010-09-25

I watched every step in the process.....make sure you tell the manager you want to take pics!

By scotiapilot at 2010-09-29

After paint and I even pointed out a few issue and they corrected it.

By scotiapilot at 2010-10-02

to this:

By scotiapilot at 2011-06-05

travisgold

Hmm im not sure if the maaco here will do the same, i dont think i will have time to do the prep myself, i do want to ask if i can i watch while they do everything i never take chances or cutting corners with my pride and joy. What do you think of a storm grey paint job?

Iroczman89

Very Nice Iroc, it is beautiful, I just purchased an 89 model myself, was originally a 5.7 TPI car, doesnt have an engine in it now, I also have an 89 gmc with TBI 350 in it completely rebuilt Im wanting to put in it, but all the wiring harness isnt there in the Iroc, so will I have to pull the one out of my truck to use?, is there any difference in the wiring harness on the truck and Iroc is what im trying to figure out what im up against, any inut would be greatly appreciated, but I do like your Iroc!