8.8 fabrication
#101
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 121
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Car: 1982 Camaro
Engine: LTX Carb
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Re: 8.8 fabrication
I welded a torque arm mount on for a buddy last year on an 8.8. He did the rest with a flux-core. Its holding up so far with a nitrous/LS combo. I let the center section sit on a hot plate and heated it with a torch, then TIGed it with stainless rod. Let it slow cool on the hot plate, and covered it with a blanket as you mentioned. Anyway, might get some ideas? Love seeing the fabrication guys do!
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...t-coupe-3.html
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-=Z28=- (05-27-2020), redneckjoe (05-01-2020)
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redneckjoe (05-01-2020)
#104
Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
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2 Posts
Car: 1982 Camaro
Engine: LTX Carb
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Re: 8.8 fabrication
Looks good! Did you happen to check clearance at full bump? I may have missed it, but what TQ arm are you planning on running?
#106
Re: 8.8 fabrication
Rear is done and in car. Fits great. Been working on the torque arm mounts. Started with the tran mount. Quickly realized there is a lot of crazy compound cuts needed in how I was going to do it. So I put that on the back burner and started on the mount that bolts to the rear. Have a few more welds to do and then it's done minus making it look pretty.
no weight in car and suspension needs to settle. Hope it comes down more or I'll be addressing that for sure.
no weight in car and suspension needs to settle. Hope it comes down more or I'll be addressing that for sure.
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NoEmissions84TA (05-17-2020)
#108
Re: 8.8 fabrication
Make shift jig.
Was a pain figuring out the compound cuts
Made it 3/4" low for ample adjustment. I may weld something permanent once i know the drive line angles. Still gotta weld the bracket for the torque arm mount. Will run a dog bone set up with a del sphere. I plan to cut the angle iron so its flush with the tubing.
Welded ok. I was in a hurry and forgot to clean the scale back far enough on the angle iron.
#109
Member
Re: 8.8 fabrication
Those welds look terrible!!!!!!
just kidding! lol they look great.
My welds look like an 8 year old is trying to hide his bubble gum after chewing it.
What are you doing for exhaust? If your doing long tubes you may need some clearance for exhaust at the crossmember.
just kidding! lol they look great.
My welds look like an 8 year old is trying to hide his bubble gum after chewing it.
What are you doing for exhaust? If your doing long tubes you may need some clearance for exhaust at the crossmember.
#110
Re: 8.8 fabrication
Thanks man
D
#111
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: 8.8 fabrication
Looks good. I did an 8.8 swap like almost 10 years ago and I made my own tq arm mount that just side over the pumpkin nose and is held on with 2 grade 8 bolts. This was before the Hiltsy mount was even available. I also used a 95 crown Vic/grand marquis rear end which is 3” wider than the 3rd gen or about .5” shorter than a 4the gen. It has 28 spline axles and I put a posi in mine. Just cut the brackets off the 8.8 and the stock 3rd gen rear ended and swap them
over. Build the tq arm mount and all you need are 1/2” spacers and you can run of the shelf 4th gen wheels with bigger backspacing.
Running it like this for years and it was behind a 550hp 521BBF and been behind my boosted 5.3 for the last 4-5 years consistently making 600-650hp with drag radials. This is with the ford factory 28 spline axles and 28 spline trac loc with carbon fiber clutch upgrade, ARP cap studs and a miser support girdle. I don’t drag race it except a few times but I beat on it every time I take it out.
think I have <$800 in the whole setup and has worked great. You will enjoy it and 28spline axles are pretty strong!
over. Build the tq arm mount and all you need are 1/2” spacers and you can run of the shelf 4th gen wheels with bigger backspacing.
Running it like this for years and it was behind a 550hp 521BBF and been behind my boosted 5.3 for the last 4-5 years consistently making 600-650hp with drag radials. This is with the ford factory 28 spline axles and 28 spline trac loc with carbon fiber clutch upgrade, ARP cap studs and a miser support girdle. I don’t drag race it except a few times but I beat on it every time I take it out.
think I have <$800 in the whole setup and has worked great. You will enjoy it and 28spline axles are pretty strong!
#112
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: 8.8 fabrication
Also axle tube fully welding isn’t necessary on a tq arm setup. Since all the stress is transferred to the pumpkin via the tq arm (rotational), the axle tubes take a lot less stress in our setups vs a 4link. My axle tubes on the 8.8 are still the factory plug welds.
#116
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: 8.8 fabrication
yours should hold up to lots of abuse, the 8.8 is a strong rear and they don’t eat the power of a 9” or the big S60. Don’t mind the stickers, they were just where I got the DOM tubing, rod ends and weld on threaded tube ends from.
not sure why the pics are coming in upside down sorry.
#117
Re: 8.8 fabrication
Great info! Thanks for sharing.
I was thinking of tunnel mount, but I kept reading a shorter arm induces wheel hop on braking? Hell, idk. So much bad information out there on torque arms. I searched for a long time. Info I did come across is up or down mount. So I made some dog ears that connect to my del sphere and to the mount on my tran cross member, that will have different holes in them to move it up or down.
exhaust is going to be a pain regardless as well, you know all about 3rd gens and exhaust. Think I'm going to just run dual 3" and start piecing in together and see how it goes. Want it as tight to floor as possible.
what size rod ends are those? 3/4"?
I thought I was done yesterday so I painted everything. Then looking at my crossmember I noticed something missing. Lol.
Torque arm all finished
Something missing....i got a easy fix.
Gets tight in there but i shouldn't have to massage anything
Here u can see how im using dog ears. I basically copied a few different bars and styles. Not paying 600 bucks when i can make it
Everything is tig welded. Was a pain getting inside here. Had a gas lense, 6 cup, 1" stick out, reg set at 30. May invest in a small torch.
I was thinking of tunnel mount, but I kept reading a shorter arm induces wheel hop on braking? Hell, idk. So much bad information out there on torque arms. I searched for a long time. Info I did come across is up or down mount. So I made some dog ears that connect to my del sphere and to the mount on my tran cross member, that will have different holes in them to move it up or down.
exhaust is going to be a pain regardless as well, you know all about 3rd gens and exhaust. Think I'm going to just run dual 3" and start piecing in together and see how it goes. Want it as tight to floor as possible.
what size rod ends are those? 3/4"?
I thought I was done yesterday so I painted everything. Then looking at my crossmember I noticed something missing. Lol.
Torque arm all finished
Something missing....i got a easy fix.
Gets tight in there but i shouldn't have to massage anything
Here u can see how im using dog ears. I basically copied a few different bars and styles. Not paying 600 bucks when i can make it
Everything is tig welded. Was a pain getting inside here. Had a gas lense, 6 cup, 1" stick out, reg set at 30. May invest in a small torch.
#121
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: 8.8 fabrication
Great info! Thanks for sharing.
I was thinking of tunnel mount, but I kept reading a shorter arm induces wheel hop on braking? Hell, idk. So much bad information out there on torque arms. I searched for a long time. Info I did come across is up or down mount. So I made some dog ears that connect to my del sphere and to the mount on my tran cross member, that will have different holes in them to move it up or down.
exhaust is going to be a pain regardless as well, you know all about 3rd gens and exhaust. Think I'm going to just run dual 3" and start piecing in together and see how it goes. Want it as tight to floor as possible.
what size rod ends are those? 3/4"?
I thought I was done yesterday so I painted everything. Then looking at my crossmember I noticed something missing. Lol.
Torque arm all finished
Something missing....i got a easy fix.
Gets tight in there but i shouldn't have to massage anything
Here u can see how im using dog ears. I basically copied a few different bars and styles. Not paying 600 bucks when i can make it
Everything is tig welded. Was a pain getting inside here. Had a gas lense, 6 cup, 1" stick out, reg set at 30. May invest in a small torch.
I was thinking of tunnel mount, but I kept reading a shorter arm induces wheel hop on braking? Hell, idk. So much bad information out there on torque arms. I searched for a long time. Info I did come across is up or down mount. So I made some dog ears that connect to my del sphere and to the mount on my tran cross member, that will have different holes in them to move it up or down.
exhaust is going to be a pain regardless as well, you know all about 3rd gens and exhaust. Think I'm going to just run dual 3" and start piecing in together and see how it goes. Want it as tight to floor as possible.
what size rod ends are those? 3/4"?
I thought I was done yesterday so I painted everything. Then looking at my crossmember I noticed something missing. Lol.
Torque arm all finished
Something missing....i got a easy fix.
Gets tight in there but i shouldn't have to massage anything
Here u can see how im using dog ears. I basically copied a few different bars and styles. Not paying 600 bucks when i can make it
Everything is tig welded. Was a pain getting inside here. Had a gas lense, 6 cup, 1" stick out, reg set at 30. May invest in a small torch.
I believe they are 3/4” rod ends, made this like 10 years ago lol.
looks like u forgot the trans mount lol.
for the exhaust I would run a single 4”. I just installed a Hawks 4” sinister on Friday and it dropped right in. I got a 7” case vibrant x 22” overall and it’s as quiet as my single 3” catback with a 14” borla proXS. I just put it on and it fit better than my 3” catback from summit, didn’t need a PHB relocation or anything. Lots of ground clearance. You could get a 4th gen speed engineering dual 3” and modify it to fit a 3rd gen pretty easily. But you will need the PHB relocation and you need to lower the PHB mount on the rear end side as well to level it back out. The new lower arm pivot kills your rear roll center and there no way to really fix that except for much stiffer rear springs.
your arm looks good tho!
#122
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: 8.8 fabrication
on the stock crown Vic rear I left the stock ford sway bar mounts. I drilled holes and welded in a 1/8” plate with bolts welded to the back of the plate. The. Welded the plate to the stock ford mounts (bolt heads hidden inside the ford mount) and the bolt threads sticking out like studs. Then bolted the stock sway bar mounts with poly bushings. Basically is sits on the factory Ford mounts. I don’t like bolt on kits so I would opt for a welded mount.
#123
Re: 8.8 fabrication
I was looking at a kit by Detroit speed I think, anyways it's got the longer spacers between end links etc, which would be super easy to make, but has weld on brackets. My rear is done and I'm not welding to it anymore. Spent a lot of time getting it straight. I know 100% sure if I put heat on it it's going to distort. I've also been looking at spohns kit, (getting tired of making everything) but I'm not sure if they are filling orders yet.
I scored a bunch, 40' of stainless tubing 3" and was going to use that. Not sure if I'm going to do dual or single, up over axle or dump before. These headman headers I got suck ballz. Not sure why so many people have them and had no fitment issues. I had to massage mine to fit, but where the collectors point, kinda screw me. Luckily the tubing I got there are a bunch of bends so I know I can make something work. Really dont want exhaust close to ground so I may have to cut the front subframe and notch it so I can get it where I want. But I'm not there yet so I'll cross that when I get there.
think 3" single is too small? Again, I've read both. Yup, too small, and nope people been running 3" with more power than I'm making and it's fine. So idk.
Thanks for the comments man.
I scored a bunch, 40' of stainless tubing 3" and was going to use that. Not sure if I'm going to do dual or single, up over axle or dump before. These headman headers I got suck ballz. Not sure why so many people have them and had no fitment issues. I had to massage mine to fit, but where the collectors point, kinda screw me. Luckily the tubing I got there are a bunch of bends so I know I can make something work. Really dont want exhaust close to ground so I may have to cut the front subframe and notch it so I can get it where I want. But I'm not there yet so I'll cross that when I get there.
think 3" single is too small? Again, I've read both. Yup, too small, and nope people been running 3" with more power than I'm making and it's fine. So idk.
Thanks for the comments man.
#124
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: 8.8 fabrication
I was looking at a kit by Detroit speed I think, anyways it's got the longer spacers between end links etc, which would be super easy to make, but has weld on brackets. My rear is done and I'm not welding to it anymore. Spent a lot of time getting it straight. I know 100% sure if I put heat on it it's going to distort. I've also been looking at spohns kit, (getting tired of making everything) but I'm not sure if they are filling orders yet.
I scored a bunch, 40' of stainless tubing 3" and was going to use that. Not sure if I'm going to do dual or single, up over axle or dump before. These headman headers I got suck ballz. Not sure why so many people have them and had no fitment issues. I had to massage mine to fit, but where the collectors point, kinda screw me. Luckily the tubing I got there are a bunch of bends so I know I can make something work. Really dont want exhaust close to ground so I may have to cut the front subframe and notch it so I can get it where I want. But I'm not there yet so I'll cross that when I get there.
think 3" single is too small? Again, I've read both. Yup, too small, and nope people been running 3" with more power than I'm making and it's fine. So idk.
Thanks for the comments man.
I scored a bunch, 40' of stainless tubing 3" and was going to use that. Not sure if I'm going to do dual or single, up over axle or dump before. These headman headers I got suck ballz. Not sure why so many people have them and had no fitment issues. I had to massage mine to fit, but where the collectors point, kinda screw me. Luckily the tubing I got there are a bunch of bends so I know I can make something work. Really dont want exhaust close to ground so I may have to cut the front subframe and notch it so I can get it where I want. But I'm not there yet so I'll cross that when I get there.
think 3" single is too small? Again, I've read both. Yup, too small, and nope people been running 3" with more power than I'm making and it's fine. So idk.
Thanks for the comments man.
https://www.umiperformance.com/home/...tallation-kit/
3” will support 400-450hp before becoming a restriction which is close to what dual 2.5” would support but dual 2.5 is alittle higher. Single 4” will support like 650hp before being a restriction. Dual 3” will support 800hp theoretically. Bends, length etc all come into play. This is with an NA car, superchargers tend to like bigger exhaust bc they breath better and exhaust restriction affects supercharger efficiency drastically. On a turbo car all math goes out the window lol “per say” a single 3” down pipe ca. Support like 800-900hp. I’ve pushed mine to 650-700hp on a single 3”. Undersizing the exhaust just restricts HP. So a single 3” might only be a 20hp difference over a single 4” depending on the setup that doesn’t mean you can’t make 500+hp on a single 3”... just means it will restrict and cost you hp the more you crank it up.
#126
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: 8.8 fabrication
I think you would be fine with a single 3"... if you wanted a little more breathing room you could bump to a single 3.5". I doubt a single 3" with a good straight through muffler would really cost you much if any power. But you would be on the ragged edge of flow through that single 3". Even if you bump that power up you will still make the extra power but it will rob just a little more as you crank it up.
If you did dual 3" off the headers you could build a dual 3" but its going to be loud but it will flow double of what your actually making. Just harder and more pipe to make it work but you have alot of pipe so...
If you did dual 3" off the headers you could build a dual 3" but its going to be loud but it will flow double of what your actually making. Just harder and more pipe to make it work but you have alot of pipe so...
#127
Re: 8.8 fabrication
I was planning on single so that's good to hear. I haven't dove into the exhaust department, and this will be my 1st time. I am very ignorant in this department. I was looking at series 40?? Small little thing.. anyways, yeah lots to learn. Greatly appreciate your comments and information.
Any experience with v bands? Brands? Ones to avoid etc? I know having them male female (flanges), and cut to accept pipe are a plus. That's about as far as I've gotten. Lol.
Again, thanks man.
Any experience with v bands? Brands? Ones to avoid etc? I know having them male female (flanges), and cut to accept pipe are a plus. That's about as far as I've gotten. Lol.
Again, thanks man.
#128
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: 8.8 fabrication
I was planning on single so that's good to hear. I haven't dove into the exhaust department, and this will be my 1st time. I am very ignorant in this department. I was looking at series 40?? Small little thing.. anyways, yeah lots to learn. Greatly appreciate your comments and information.
Any experience with v bands? Brands? Ones to avoid etc? I know having them male female (flanges), and cut to accept pipe are a plus. That's about as far as I've gotten. Lol.
Again, thanks man.
Any experience with v bands? Brands? Ones to avoid etc? I know having them male female (flanges), and cut to accept pipe are a plus. That's about as far as I've gotten. Lol.
Again, thanks man.
vbands are decent if you plan to remove the exhaust a lot but they all usually leak. Unless your great at welding them (move fast and not a lot of heat) then your guaranteed to warp it. I?ve used self aligning vbands and non self aligning. They are basically the same but the thicker the flanges the less likely to warp. I clamp flanges together when welding and only do a bit at a time and let it cool between. If you have the room for pipe to stick through like 1/4? (slide pipe through the vband so it pokes out and that will slide into the other vband) that?s the best your going to get with those. Something else to look into is a Marman Flange, they are the best but they need lots of room and they are near impossible to find in stainless. Nothing wrong with slip fit and a good band clamp like a torque tite. self aligning vbands are sometimes a PItA to get to work, if they warp your screwed and they don?t fit far enough into each other to really be a benefit. I have been using both recently but got some eBay ones for $12 that I?m liking so far for 3? self aligning. Here is a pic of the one I welded last week to make my 4? catback bolt into my 3? downpipe/electric cutout with a interlocking flex pipe
Vibrant 4? streetpower straight through perforated core. As you can see it doesn?t block flow at all.
this pic you can see that if it?s a straight section I always push through a big of pipe(slide the flange on further) which helps even with aligning flanges and if you do it right will be 100% leak free.
I just welded that one above last week. I pick a few up and have them in case. Bc they are male/female with the self aligning ring you need the correct side if your changing something which I was so luckily I had a spare set to use a flange from. That?s a scratch start TIG with 308 SS rod and not the best weld being the pipe is so thin compared to the flange.
The following 2 users liked this post by customblackbird:
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