customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Hey guys! No threads on swapping door handles like the S10 or CK truck handles onto a third gen that go into any detail. heres what I did and its prob not the "best" way but its been a learning experience and should come out pretty decent.

Also Ill give some info on gutting the door to remove weight and make the doors alil easier to close and open.

First off... where i got the handles and locks(tumbers) and keys! I got the handles brand new as a pair from 1Aauto.com. handles are new stock replacements (steel or pot metal) with a smooth black finish. Be aware that they do come in a "textured" finish. I went with the S10 handles as they are slightly smaller than the CK truck handles, and Im not a fan of the stock or 4th gen handles. This should flow with the cars lines/shape much better than the stock stuff.

Handles from 1Aauto with free shipping cost me about 33$. I got the tumblers with keys for 23$ shipped from Ebay with a 3 yr warrenty. They had sets for 15$ but no warrenty on other ebay listings but for 5$ if they are going to warrenty it for 3 yrs its gotta be a better quality peice.

So i picked up 2 used doors from a fellow thirdgen.org memeber as well as a used fender. I went ahead and started gutting them. This is pretty easy actually and its my first time doing it. 2 spot welds by the door lock (inside side "bear claw") and then 4 spot welds by the wiring bundle that goes inside the car. Drill those out and the pop that inside bar loose! Then i had to cut the bar about 3-4 times about 8" each time to get the darn thing out! All said and done the metal inside the door weighed in at a whopping 12lbs EACH DOOR!!! Taking this out should make opening/closing them noticably easier. See pic one of the carnage! BTW the stuff i the pic of the bucket is just the stuff from 1 door!

Now onto the door handles. I didnt get the handle pocket from an S10 donor door mostly due to cost and availability. I opted to make my own pockets from the stock door steel, this will also help with welding/body work versus grafting in the stock S10 door steel. Since making my own pocket allowed me to basically make all the fabrication behind the door handle so no real work had to be done to the door skin. I also welded in new steel to cover the original door lock hole and puttied it all up. I then stripped the stock doors down to bare metal. The inner door jabs will be painted with rustoleum flat black after being hit with self etching primer than then the outside of the door will get shot with urathane primer and then a single stage hot rod black.

From the pics you can see how i folded and cut the stock door to create the door handle pocket. Then making brackets to bolt the S10 handles down. I then putty'd around the handle and door lock patch to make it all smooth and nice. Overall this was a PITA but cool none the less. I also had to shorten the stock internal bar "linkages" that go to the "bear claw lock" and key etc. The pics of the rods will show which ones I had to shorten (2 of them to be exact. The S10 handles also had to be modified to clear the window as it goes up and down.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

door handle pocket, no steel was added to the actual pocket, Just made a template of the door handle and cut out a hole smaller than the pocket and then made 4 tabes for each side, folded these tabs in to stiffen up the thin door shell steel and add some rigidy to the door again. I had to weld one thicker stronger tab (16 gauge steel) into the one side to made when pulling the handle alittle better/easier on the door steel.

As you can see the door lock has been welded up and this way with the door handle should help minimize door body work to get it all straight since all the work is behind the door handle.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Handle holes have been puttied and sanded. The door will be stripped next with chemical stripper, rustoleum air craft remover. Once the handle is mounted then the figuring out of the inner door linkages can be figured out.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

mocking everything up and measuring the linkages is no easy task esp when the door openings are small and space is tight. This is the first time ive also looked inside the door at the locking stuff. This was interesting and complicated.

Pics show the 2 linkages/rods that had to be shortened. The 2 rods are:
1.) key/tumbler to "bear claw"
2.) handle to "bear claw"

the lengths are shown side by side to the stock rods, the modified rods are painted grey (primer) after cutting and welding them.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

I skipped this as this has to be done before you figure out the linkages.

Door handles have to be modified! woohoo! Alot of trial and error on the first one take alittle off the handle "arm" until it cleared. then figuring out how to rebend and shorten the tempered steel spring for the arm. The second one took me 10 min to modify as i just copied the first one i did.

Pics show the modified and the stock S10 handle side by side. only mods had to be to the arm that swings the rod connected to the "bear claw" this contacts the window as its rolled up and down and will stop the window from going up or down. It also opens the handle as the window hits it... so it has to be done. The arm on the S10 handle is much longer than the stocker. See pics.

pic 1 shows the shortened arm
pic 2 shows the modified spring (shorter)
pic 3 shows the difference between the stock 3rd gen handle and the S10 handle arm.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

heres the doors stripped and then putty'd to get them straight and smooth. The stripper works ok if you have time and patience, i did mine in my basement as it has to be warm. This stuff burns ur hands or anything it touches so wear gloves. It makes my fingers hurt for days through the 9mil nitrile gloves i wear. I also scrap the paint off with a razor and it takes multiple coats and scraps to get down to the steel.

This is the last time before I paint the sides of the door with primer and flat black rustoleum. Then shoot the outside with urathane primer and hot rod black.

This hasnt been a very easy mod but it looks much better than stock! Using the S10 door skins will make it easier versus making your own door handle pocket but it will require alot of welding, potential warping of the door skin steel and then much more body work to make it all straight.

I hope this was helpful since there wasn't much for me to go off from here, i figured I help out the next lucky soul to attempt this.

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

very nice mod. i've always liked the tucked handles like these (and the C/K trucks). much cleaner looking that our stock ones.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

thanks! i hope it looks good when its all completed and painted.

Interesting is that I purchased the handles from your company lol. used you guys a couple of times, good prices and fast shipping. thanks!

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

haha, glad we could be part of the swap. thanks for the positive feedback!

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

Got a pic from the inside side of the door showing how gutted the doors are? I've thought about trimming some inner surface off of my, but it is also a DD & only so much could be cut away & still provide support for the window motor & armrest mount.

bk2life

many years later.. but any pictures?

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Yea I ran them for a bit, they worked fine but eventually got new doors with TA GFX and converted the car to a TA clone.

you can kinda see the door handles in these pics.




car now looks like this.

bk2life

Right on man! I like the transformation over the years. Cool to see you’re still rockin your 3rd gen.

Thanks for the update

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

What wheels are these?

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

ford bolt pattern FR500 anthracite I believe. 17x10.5 rear and 17x 8 front.