someone972

iTrader: (2)

So I've searched around but haven't quite found what I'm looking for (links to threads I missed are appreciated!). What I'm trying to figure out is what I need to do to get the headers to fit on either side. I tried getting the driver-side header on and it looks like I'll need to mess with the brake lines. I couldn't seem to get it down in the right spot though; is there some trick to getting them in place? Pictures of installed Dyno-Don headers would be helpful, particularly of any modifications needed to fit. I've got AIR/AC so that should be fun to clear.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

TTT.

Should I be able to install the driver side set if I take the valve cover off? Or would it be best to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine a bit?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

It varies... sometimes it seems like one thing is blocking it, but if you take that off, something else does... it's hardly ever straightforward.

Driver's side should go in fairly smooth if you take the steering shaft out. Might have to move the column over toward the fender as far as it will go, where it bolts to the firewall, when you put it back in, to get it to clear the headers.

Pass side, probably have to remove the starter.

Always helps to pull the through-bolts and raise the motor acoupla .001"s. As long, of course, as the thing you're raising it with, doesn't interfere; which if you're doing it from underneath, could require some ingenuity.

Make some effort to carefully inspect the evaporator housing where it's closest to the pass side manifold... these are just about always crystallized to dust from the heat. Now's the time to repair it with some fiberglass cloth if it's deteriorated.

SouthSide2

They are big. I did have to move the brake lines. I also had the ports reduced. To be sure that would seal to D shape vortex heads. My heads gm performance large port vortex
I had to cut the Y pipe. It didn't fit . To short between left and right header.
So they require some judgements on the installer.

SouthSide2

SouthSide2

Y pipe. I bolted it all up. Positioned all pipes to have best clearances. Tack welded it. Removed the tacked assembly. Welded it completely. Cleaned it for paint... painted it with high temp. paint.

I Must say, I resurfacing the mating surface of headers [header to head surface] after welding the ports for more sealing of gasket to my "D" ports. [ I know..why buy big headers and weld them smaller? It's a compromise ] Sooo... I could have changed the angle on that face of each header to make the distance between them a little off. This could be the ... "why" the "Y" pipe was off.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the pic and info! Very helpful!

91 zeee

I just installed a set of Dyno Don headers. Both sides went in from the top. You need to angle it down in there, but I did not remove starter, motor mounts, steering shaft; nothing. The brake lines were in the way on the drivers side and gave the appearance that the headers would never go in. I removed a mounting clip on that side, bent the lines out of the way by hand, put the clip back, and the headers went in.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

Your car must not have A/C, AIR or heat because there is no way to get the passenger side header in with all that crap in place. Mine went in from the bottom with the starter removed. I haven't been able to get the drivers side in yet. I think I have to remove the steering shaft and move some brake lines around. We will see later tonight assuming I can get the flange on that header to break free. It's frozen in place and no amount of hitting it will help.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

I had to put both sides in from the top. On the driver's side the steering shaft had to come out and a couple of the brake lines moved. The one going to the driver's side front brake I took completely off and re-routed, the other I just bent out of the way on the car. Passenger side I had to remove the AIR diverter valve, A/C compressor, and A/C accumulator to get it in. There was a metal coolant pipe which I had to relocate from on the side of the frame rail to on top of the frame rail which I had just enough room to slide it under the A/C evaporator box. I ended up denting the frame in just slightly on the passenger side to get a bit more clearance to the collector, I also had to tap a hard line closer to the frame. On mine my engine seems to be a bit closer to the passenger side; I also added a motor mount shim on that side to move it further away. I also have to be careful where I tighten the flange down because it's very close to the A-arm on one side and very close to the frame/hardline on the other. All in all, not the easiest install, but as far as header installs go it wasn't the worst. Some people may have it easier, especially if they are not keeping AIR or A/C.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

My passenger one went in from the bottom after I took the starter out. I did the same as you on the drivers side and also swapped out the shaft for the Astro van one. I'm waiting on gaskets right now so I cant finalize the install. Hopefully the gaskets are not too thick because I may have issues with the collectors hitting the car. Ill find out on Thursday.

I'm also trying to decide which wires and wire routing I should go with now. Decisions decisions.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

I went under the headers with my MSD wires. Just didn't seem like enough room with the air tubes to cleanly route them over. I messed up the first time though and burned 3 of the wires on the passenger side since the collector is a bit closer to the engine. Replaced them and made a bracket to hold that side away and it's been fine since. If you need pictures of under-routed wires for decision making I might be able to oblige.