Lurbie

iTrader: (3)

I bought some used Doug's D3321 headers and after I finish mocking them up and getting a bung welded on, I intend to have these sand blasted and ceramic coated. I am very confused about why this one pipe is slip fit together. I found a few threads about these leaking on Hooker 2210s and how to seal it, but nothing really explaining what it's there for (except a couple of posts saying it's easier to replace a starter with this out of the way). Can anyone explain why there is this slip joint and what I should do? I don't know if Hooker's are cut all the way through, but here's a pic of my header flange. It is partially cut through.
I am wondering if I am supposed to cut this the rest of the way through and apply the sealer at the joint or leave it be? If I ever have to replace a starter and it actually requires this to be cut I'd rather cut it now instead of when it's bolted right next to my AFR 195 heads. I'm also concerned with what I should do with this slip joint in regard to having it coated. Should I weld the joint shut before having it coated? Should I cut through the flange and have the two parts coated separately? Or leave it as-is, coat it and hope it never leaks?

Lurbie

iTrader: (3)

TTT

With 11 pages in one thread and 7 or so in another about Hooker 2210s I'm surprised no one has responded yet. Does no one run 2210s or D3321s anymore??

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

My hooker super comp headers are cut and have that slip fit tube that comes completely out.
Story is it also helps with install on cars with A/C.
I use high temp rv on them, no issues.
1" long bolts, fel-pro 140? gaskets and anti-seize on the bolts.

Lurbie

iTrader: (3)

Thanks TTOP350. I've got the 1" stainless ARP bolts, intend on using the ARP assembly lube as an anti-seize, and AFR says to use the 1404 gaskets so I'll be getting a set of those. I'm going back and forth on whether or not to keep AC in the car, the Heat only option looks so much cleaner and gives more room, so I appreciate your response. I will probably cut it then, but I'm still concerned about how to have it coated and whether I should cut it before or after the coating is complete.

Are your headers ceramic coated? I'm curious about that because I would think if I cut it apart and have both pieces coated separate from each other that it probably won't fit back together (unless I mark it and have a portion left uncoated to slide back together).

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Mine are jet-hot coated, some minor issues sliding them together when new but its better now. I used anti-seize to slide them together a few times after coating then cleaned that off and used high temp rtv. 0 issues.

Kinda hard to see but here it is.

Lurbie

iTrader: (3)

Appreciate the real world experience TTOP350! That gives me the confidence to finish the cut Doug's made, get these mocked up, bung welded in, clean these up and get them coated.

Lurbie

iTrader: (3)

I really didn't think I'd get an answer from the company, but one just came through. I'll add it here along with the pdf instruction sheet they sent. Here's what they said:

"We do not cut the flange all the way through because they ship and make it through production better this way. So, you will need to finish the cut at the flange to test fit. We recommend a thin film of cooper silicon on the pipe when you slip them together.

If you are going to send them off to be coated after test fitting. I would recommend tack welding or half way welding up the flange again. They ship much better this way, also after they coat the headers they should be putting them in a vibrating bead bath. The headers tend to keep their shape better with it all connected."

Hope that helps people with the same questions I had.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't want to have to cut up fresh coating and have a rusty area..
Mine came back wrapped in foam and in a box of peanuts.
The vibration polish isn't hard on them at all.

Lurbie

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking the same thing; no way I'd want to cut through fresh coating and cause a point of rust. I haven't decided for sure, but there's a local place that a friend had a lot of underhood accessories coated earlier this year, so if I get them coated locally I won't have to worry about shipping damage.