S_Johnson

Ok, so I currently have some cheap 1 1/2 primary shorty headers, hooked up to a fairly high end 400SB. It could REALLY use the breathing from long-tubes, and a larger piped exhaust.

I have 3 Questions:

1. Exactly WHAT are my options for long tubes? I would PREFER 1 3/4, unless someone tells me they arn't necassary, but I want a list of ALL options at the moment.

2. Are there ANY that don't require a mini-starter? I find this very confusing, as mine is NOT the stock 305 starter, the flex-plate on my 400 was bigger, and the starter I got from shuck's looks EXACTLY like the one on my 454BB MotorHome engine... So do I need a mini-starter even more? since my starter is bigger than the stock one? (it might just be longer, I don't know for sure, unless someone can measure the circumference of their stock starter so I can compare...)

3. Are there any OTHER modifications that will be necassary to install long tubes? I read the article on the Hooker 2210's is that the same for all of them? Thanks...

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

the hooker 1 3/4 are nice. you will need to notch the lca mounts slightly. not sure about the starter because i already had a mini starter. i got mine from a late astro van at a salvage yard for $50.

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

also the long tubes are a problem when using an auto tranny, especially if the car is lowered because the pipes have to run under the tranny cross member.

S_Johnson

The car isn't lowered, and my current setup hangs down below the level of the crossmember on the drivers side anyways, and it isn't to bad, it scrapes once in a blue moon, no serious problems...

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Lost my last post. Let me sum up quickly. Hedman, Hooker, and few others are options you can search for them. Most people run Hookers because there cheap, you can get them coated if you want, they work well with the mufflex y-pipe, and there plentiful (I've personally bought 2 pairs of ceramic coated off ebay for around $400 shipped each).

Clearance issues on mine with 2210s and solid motor mounts:

I fried my power wire for the starter once cause it fell on the header. Heat wrap and zip tied it to the motor mount fixed that.

Passenger header wouldn't install with mini-starter in place. I tried for about 20 minutes+. I ended up unbolting it, putting in header, and then wiggling it back into place.

Driver side A Arm mount back ear had to be cut. It lined directly up with a header primary and from the wear marks on the used headers I bought it seems like it's not only my car cause one set had a pretty good dent in them there. I used a angle grinder and cut off part of the ear. I didn't have to cut into the actual A arm itself so no big deal there IMO.

Y-pipe clearance issues on Mufflex pipe. I'm running 1st generation spohn tq arm, basically it's like current ones but front mount is a little different the tq arm slides forward and back on the spohn cross member. Cross member may be different than new style I've never seen a new style in person so I can't say. I had to dent in topside of the Y pipe 1/2" or more around the member to get it to clear. Not a big issue. I could not find another way even after hacking the Y pipe apart and re-tacking it for extra clearance I still had to dent it.

S_Johnson

FireTurd350(roflol ) Thanks! I'm actually using my own setup after the headers (mandrel bent 45Degree angles, into glasspacks on each side, then out before rear tires), so I don't have to worry about the Y-Pipe. Where to the headers end up dumping exactly? vertically speaking? is there any way to get a picture? Thanks.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

If you're talking about the collectors they dump close to the firewall. I actually changed out my collector bolts for better sealing and I changed the passenger top side one from the motor bay just reaching down (I'm still missing a heater box cause it won't fit with the heads and solid mounts). I could get you a picture later probably if it ever stops raining.

The mufflex pipe I have slopes down and goes under the auto crossmember mount so that might give you some idea.

S_Johnson

My heads are modified GM heads, so nothing wierd there, and I actually already don't have an AC box, I built my own metal heater box to replace it, because I took the AC out. I also have new, but stock style motor mounts. All my other stuff (TArm, crossmember etc...) are still stock as well.

Stroke

http://www.edquay.com/headers/index.html try this place

S_Johnson

I think that's a little high-end for my application. Thanks though!

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Sorry never made it out to the garage last night. Pics are linked to larger versions. Also driverside one you can make out a marking on the primary where previous owner must not have clearance the A Arm for it. That's where it hit/rubbed.

Driver side:


Passenger side:



Driverside Spohn Tq Arm with Mufflex Y pipe (you can see how I had to dent in the top side of the pipe to get it to fit):

S_Johnson

great pics man, I appreciate it!