firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

pretty straight forward, does a t56 make it any easier or harder to go longtube? i know one of the availible longtube options, have issues with the placement of the slave cylinder on the t5 setup.... the t56 has it pointed the other way, and appears to be tucked in more although the entire trans is larger overall so it may be deceiving my eyes..


thoughts ? pictures ?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

much easier. i've done two exhaust systems on cars with lt1 style t56's...there is more clearance there than that of an auto. it's wide open, so you can use the cheapy hedman longtubes if you want.

for the record, modding the collector on those same hedman longtubes for t5 clearance isn't difficult either. i did one where i cut the ball flange off, extended it 4" or so, then put a regular flat style 3 bolt collector. put a small clearance ding in the new collector area and no issues what-so-ever.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

i would likely use the "cheapy" hedman longtubes, i like the ball and socket flange it seems to seal well, i have the shorty hedmans with that flange now, but i cannot keep my y pipe off the bottom of the car, which is rather annoying... i also plan to use UMI subframes, and for some reason i suspect my hedman y pipe will be in the way...

happen to have any pics of the hedman LT and a t56? also since it sounds like you have installed a set of them before, where are the other clearance headaches?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

there is only one clearance headache that i can remember, which is right by the driver's side a-arm perch. the best solution is a sawzall, and just cut the one corner off the perch that protrudes into the way of the primaries on that side. everything else is pretty much a breeze. i will tell you, as with any headers, keeping the ac makes for a fun time getting to the header flange bolts.

i HIGHLY recommend doing some sort of "double hump" style crossmember. Skulte used to make one that is REALLY nice, but i think he's stopped making them, and when he did, the wait time was ridiculous. building a custom one is not hard if you can weld. the spohn one is terrible, and will decrease your clearance on the exhaust by a bunch.

picture:

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

that looks like it tucks nicely, it appears to y together to a stock type intermediate pipe?

the crossmember would definately need to be addressed as i do have the sphon unit, and im still and will likely stay with a stock torque arm...

i also saw that spd is now defunct as far as crossmembers go but i recall seeing the humped one for lt headers/t56, couldnt be to hard to recreate tho


the car is a weekend toy, might see the stip 2x a year or so.. not looking for power out of longtubes, so much as the sound, although to really get what i want i need true duals, to the bumper. and im not sure im ready for the headaches that come with that.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

yeah, that is dual 2.5" into a single 3.5". this version 1.0. version 2.0 has the muffler in the stock location, and i took a 3.5" single over the axle to it, and dumped it at the bumper like stock...except with awesomely huge pipe.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

I had to do that with mine too theres some pics here if anyone cares to see


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...-3rd-gens.html

ATX-Iroc

Hawks now sells a double hump crossmember

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

mw66nova, do you have any other pics of that crossmember you posted up there? and other specs ie channel size wall thickness

im thinking, angle irons for the mounting points, and c channel for the middle section from what i can see?

for the y pipe in the pic, it appears to be the hedman extensions and another s bend? or a couple 30* bends? a straight piece and a good quality 2-1 collector, i really like the looks of it. and it appears to be pretty tight on the car, and no lower than my spohn x member is now

its time to do this, im tired of trying to re work the y pipe on my shorties. i got umi subframes and they wont fit without doing something to it.


i saw the one that hawks has and it appears to just be flat stock, with no stiffening ribs or rolled edges and they want like $149 to be honest and blunt the word flimsy comes to mind, especially with the torque arm tuggin at it. at least the factory rolled the edges of the metal to provide some stiffness

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

honestly, that is not my car, you'll have to get in touch with kyle. his name on here is InfernalVortex

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

ok thanks

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Here's some pics of my Hedmans and that T56 crossmember, my car is the one pictured earlier in the thread, and this was before that exhaust got put on it:





They pretty much line up perfectly. Just take the pipe down the driveshaft tunnel.

This is my old 3 inch dual system built around my 700r4 and stock crossmember... it'll help give you an idea of how much extra space you get:

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

awesome, i was just typing a pm, i guess i dont need to now..

i see that actually is an spd crossmember. built as i guess except its rectangle tubing, not channel. that should be pretty easy to do up.

is the y pipe pretty much as i guessed? header extensions + 2 gentle bends and the collector? looks like 2.5in? from collectors to the intermediate y

sorry to bug ya just trying to get a list together so i can order it in one shot, no one local does mandrel its all crush tho that soft bend in crush wouldnt be the end of the world

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I did this same build about a month ago. Instead of ordering a crossmember, a buddy of mine and I built a jig and made this crossmember for the T56:



It isn't perfect (not as much clearance as possible), but it worked well for purposes of getting the dual pipes tucked a little higher.

Here's a kind of dark shot underneath:



List of components:

-Hedman Longtubes (the $150 ones, not coated)
-Hedman S-extensions
-About 3.5 feet of 2.5" tubing per side, straight pipe
-2x Flowmaster 40 series 2 chamber mufflers

Hope this helps.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

stock starter with the hedmans guys? im t56 formerly t5 so i have the smaller of the stock starters

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

not a problem

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

It was 3 inch to 2.5 inch header extensions and I had a big 2.5 inch U bend that was cut into the curves you see. A flowmaster dual 2.5 -> single 3.5 inch collector and then a bunch of 3.5 inch piping.


My stock starter worked fine, the T56 starter is worth the money though. I got mine off ebay used for $30. My stock starter was having serious heatsoak problems with the Long Tubes and I got fed up with it. Be ready to go to a ministarter if you get heatsoak issues.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the list. i think i can prolly handle this. looks to be about $115 in parts to build the y. surely i'll take longer to do it than a shop, but then it will be the way i want it.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

that sir, is the very reason i started doing my own exhaust systems, and why i've had the pleasure to build so many other systems for the guys in my area.

91camarosRS

iTrader: (5)

so is there not a way to have a crossmember mounted ta on a thick quality piece like umi or spohn with long tubes? And have clearance?

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Here's my thread on Hooker 2210 longtubes with a T-56 and Mufflex 4" cat back.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...0s-t-56-a.html

91camarosRS

iTrader: (5)

is your car lowered? Heard hookers not good for that

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Yep, Eibach pro kit. I havent had issues with scraping, but Im always weary of it though.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

well, i picked up a set of headers from a member here hedmans, they are older with the standard 3 bolt flange but never installed, and i have them hanging on the motor,

it looks like i will be needing a dent in the k member on the drivers side, and to trim the corner of the control arm mounts on both sides..........the engine has vortec heads though i doubt they have much to do with my clearance issues.

i think i could be a little better off with new motor mounts, but they are only new and sag free for a short time, and these are still pretty solid. and i dont want poly mounts i gained enough interior noise and vibes with the poly trans mount,

i have a set of extensions a couple bends a piece of straight pipe and a y collector to build a y pipe

I also emailed hawks about the humped crossmember they offer since its now down to $110, it is 1/4in thick flat stock so i have one of those ordered. i would have been close to $50 in materials plus time and headaches in building my own and im not a fan of re-inventing the wheel. i'll post my review of the piece when it arrives.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

@InfernalVortex or mw

any hints on what to do for a hanger at the crossmember area?

did you guys set that one above up with a flange or band clamp or something to disconnect the y from the intermediate to facilitate trans removal?

im waiting on hawks for my crossmember but i have the rest of the stuff here i think,

im pondering a hanger and connection there and the best way, hanging the rear of the y from the crossmember should be pretty self explanatory once its in place, i fear i may need to hang the end of the intermediate as well if i use the band clamp in a butt joint configuration. scared of it working loose and pogo sticking

i'll be clearancing for the headers this afternoon, havent decided if im going to paint them or just put them on, i dont seem to have any luck with paint staying on. i could just spend the $20 on booze instead of vht flameproof

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

on kyles car i made the y-pipe all one piece all the way back to the axle, then i put a band clamp there before it went over the axle. it comes off quickly by loosening the band clamp and then taking the collectors loose. you can use a universal strap style hanger back there. i always drill a hole under the back seat, stick a bolt and some washers/nuts through the floor board there, and hang the strap hanger on that. i'd like to one day come up with a nicer looking solution, but this setup works flawlessly...

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

ok so i got the passenger side a arm mount trimmed and ready to put a flat piece back in. i think i have nearly a 1/4 in of clearance.

and have a good idea what needs to be done on the drivers side k member but im not seeing a real great way to do it, any hints or tips would be welcome... i have the blue tipped saw at my disposal but im a little leary of using it not a fan of fire and my car being in the same place. i also have die grinders drills cut off wheels, sawzall etc. there just isnt much room with the motor there to do anything.

again any hints would be greatly appreciated.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

just dent the primary right there. the amount of clearance you should need is marginal and the small dent there won't affect flow at all. that's how all of my setups were.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

well, i got them both mounted without touching anywhere. i'd like more room but it will do

i heated and pulled that tube back a little with a come along while it was bolted to an old truck frame rail. and got most of the room then added a tiny dent.

i hung the hedman X stensions on it 1 passenger side is fine, drivers side i may cut and add a piece to the collector end of it to help with slave clearance but im gonna wait for my hawks crossmember to see if i can even have the exhaust that high.

so far things are going about as i imagined i guess.... cant wait to get done tho the weather is nice for it to be sitting on stands.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

its actually all welded now, ran out of time to put it back on the car tho

stoning_volcom

so i got a question, i am putting headman lt's on my 89 formula, and i was wondering the stock starter. Now, i dont have to change anything to put them on do i?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

it will work with the stock full sized starter, but you have to finagle the starter and the headers into place kinda at the same time...

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

so its all done and on the car, ground clearance is great, and it saounds totally different.

more throaty on light throttle low middle rpm. it was late at night barfly driving time so i didnt really play with it. the drivers side header is making contact under certain loads so i may have to pull it back out and make a little more room. i didnt make as much clearance on the control arm mount as i really should have it looked ok without the gaskets in i sorta forgot about them at the time.

i'll get a pic or 2 for the board to archive this weekend, while i have it lifted to check collectors and such after a few heat cycles.

overall im pretty happy

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

Grabbed a few pics today after we took out the drivers header and did some more clearancing, no more rubbing now. so now im really happy with it

the side shot is with the car on the ground and the bottle is at what appears to be the lowest spot

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

that turned out great my friend! sometimes i wish i could run a system like that now, but it won't fit with the way the rest of the car is setup

built91Z28

That turned out very nice I have one question. How close to the sides of the trans do those S-extensions come? I'm looking to use those same things for my X pipe setup.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

pretty close, 3/4in maybe a little less in a couple spots.. i have everything tucked as tightly as possible, and mounted at the rear to one of the torque arm mount bolts on the tail housing so it moves with the trans/motor.

if you sacrifice ground clearance a bit you can have more clearance on the trans. i chose to keep it as far from the ground as possible

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

hi ho, me again.

looking to complete this exhaust project and run dual 2.5 to the back.... and use a set of sweet thunder power sticks or similar from classic chambered exhaust.

i would like to send the drivers side pipe over the axle on the drivers side... if anyone has pics or hints im open to them.

i will be piecing this together in 2.5 in mandrel bends most likely from

http://www.mandrel-bends.com their prices beat summit by enough to give them a shot... shipping looks bad but once you create an account you get other options.

now i haven't seen my car in like 3 months since this is iowa and its late january... so im trying to envision what i will need. currently thinking
2 90*s
4 45*s
4ft straight

i believe should do it.. im certain i will need to cut and splice the bends themselves to actually get the right angles, it will be built without mufflers initially, so i can use teh longest ones possible, and some long polished tips headed straight back.

if anyone has a pic of 2.5in pipe going OVER the axle on the drivers side lets see them.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i don't think you'll have the room to go over there unless you relocate the upper panhard rod support. putting both pipes over the axle on the passenger's side is doable though. you could easily use two stock ls1 intermediate pipes if you wanted to do that on the cheap.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

you know mw, i knew there was something i was forgetting about... its ok tho, im still planning at this point cuz its too cold to mess with it at the moment

thanks for the tip on ls intermediates..

my main reason for trying to stay on that side is to avoid having 1 pipe longer than the other.... and just because then i can say i did it. that last part is probably more important to me than equalish length pipes

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

if you have a balance pipe (x, h, etc) i can't see why the pipe after the crossover/balance would need to be the same length.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

this is true, and im sure it will benefit from having one, i have also seen that cut down interior drone.

have you heard the sweet thunder or classic chambered mufflers in person before? they sound pretty sweet in videos but that always leaves so much to the imagination since the quality is often poor. and well at $80per i dont want to make a mistake..

truth be told i like the way the car sounds now, but i want a bit more old school sound and i dont see that coming from a crossflow muffler.

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Looks good. Any shots of the Hawks crossmember up close by chance?

PS. I'm back in a 3rdgen Matt lol!

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

thanks, i really dont seem to have a shot that even shows it. i will try to grab a pic when the weather breaks and i get back to this.

it is made of 1/4in flatstock with angle irons for the frame ends, turned up into the tunnel where the cross piece starts and drops for the trans mount. i have beat on it pretty good and it doesnt seem to give much... this is with a stock torque arm/suspension on street tires

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the hawks x-member doesn't look the strongest so I was going to add gussets where I could. Just wanted a shot from on the actual car.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

nice lookin' new ride demon, shoot me a pm with specs and stuff if you want!

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

so i got started on the back half of this..... as is i have room for about 3 inches of up travel before i crush pipe between the panhard bar and the brace...gains could be made by lowering the panhard and making a zig zagged brace but im not certain how much yet.

just ordered mufflers from sweet thunder, i went with 18 inch length, 2.5 in and out the body diameter is only 3 inches which will help ground clearance... i just hope 18 inches can cut the sound down enough... i chose that length after much staring at a tape measure and a picture of the gmmg catback.

pics will come as things unfold so far its been alot of staring and taking off the old back half of the exhaust, which is completely intact for either sale or reinstalling if this projects falls apart

formula350sd

iTrader: (2)

I am in the process of trying to make my hookers work with a Spohn crossmember and it doesn't look too promising.

The only way I think I'll be able to get it to work is to create a very short most certainly not ideal Y pipe with oval tubing and run it to the passenger side of the car... it should sit about as high off the ground as the crossmember itself...

If anyone has any ideas that may help I'm all ears at this point i think I may have to go to a shorter header but I most certainly do not want to...

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

got the system completed over the weekend, but did end up routing both over the passenger side.....

i still believe that a 2.5 in pipe could go over reasonably well on the drivers side of a stock height car like mine, however brake and fuel lines would need protection or slighty moved up into the tunnel. ovaling the tube where it passes between the panhard bar and brace would help.

truth is its just not worth it. i will get pictures possibly video for sound probably this weekend when i recheck my mounts/collectors/clamps the car is certainly louder but its a much crisper raw sound. especially when you run the revs up.

i lost about 3/4 inch or ground clearance.

built91Z28

I doubt you will get it to work. I got true duals and a crossmember mounted TA and ground clearance (minus the collectors) but I had to make everything. The TA crossmember, the trans crossmember, modified the Spohn TA, and made the exhaust. The torque arm doesnt mount on the trans crossmember any more. I had to make a seperate one for it.