RS-Chevy-SS

Ok guys heres the deal.. Its and 89 RS 305 TBI LO3...I put a new cat by magna flow with 2.25 inlet and 2.50 outlet and a 3" catback by flowmaster with the 2.50 inlet at the cat out to the 3"... i want to wake this car up a little more. Heres the main deal...I dont want to mess with deleting the air injection tubes because i dont want the car to start running like **** and throw codes everywere. It doesnt have to pass smog. So what should i do? New headers new y pipe? Also can I still use my brand new cat? I'd hate to have to buy a another new cat.... Any Help is appreciated!

bigj350

iTrader: (1)

I have the same engine. I got rid the air tubes and the smog pump and it still runs good, though I am getting a code 32 (egr). I dont if thats because i took off the smog pump though. I have heard other people not getting any codes at all. But you can get headers that work with the air tubes.

RS-Chevy-SS

Really? Do you know the part number for the headers that work with stock?? Man I just dont want to take the risk of seeing that SES light man it gets annoying at night hahah Your driving around with a blinding light!!!

bigj350

iTrader: (1)

No I don't have any part numbers. I got mine off ebay.

RS-Chevy-SS

O...Anyone else have any ideas for me??

bigj350

iTrader: (1)

Try this website http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...001747/c-10101

RS-Chevy-SS

So im thinking about getting these headers with the fittings http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

But they are $300 vs the ones without at $160!! also with this y pipe
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=HOK-16767HKR

Anything else i need? Total it looks like a 600 dollar job O PS Whats the diff between shorty and long tube?

bigj350

iTrader: (1)

The shorty headers are easier to work with. I think they bolt up to the Y-pipe or come with one. Long tube headers, which produce more power, need a custom exhaust. I found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-92...QQcmdZViewItem

Looks like it has everything you need, plus the air tubes

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

The code 32, EGR, had nothing to do with the air system being removed. I replaced my EGR when I got the code 32, fixed it right up. I then removed my air system, been over a year now, no SES light light.

bigj350

iTrader: (1)

Thats just what I heard. I tested my egr, plus its fairly new. so i asked around and I was told it was because I took off my Smog stuff.

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

Just because it's fairly new doesn't mean it can't go bad. I know 2 other Camaro's that removed their air systems and haven't threw any codes for it.

UNCLE TOM

iTrader: (1)

i removed my air pump several years ago , no problem , no codes . 2 months ago , code 32 , new e.g.r. valve , no problems . 29 m.p.g. hwy. . SEMPER FI

bigj350

iTrader: (1)

I tested it not to long ago. Everything seemed fine. I've been wondering if the egr solenoid is bad.

kuulkatdadieo

iTrader: (1)

Add a GTA to that list.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

If you want to keep the AIR tubes and smog stuff, I recommend the HOOKER 2055 headers. You can get them painted or ceramic coated. It's what I'm running on my 84 T/A with a 305.

RS-Chevy-SS

Really the 2055's? With what y pipe? Also does it come with the fittings put in already? Part #? Also it seems like when people remove their smog system the throw a bad egr? Is this related at all? Does my 89 TBI even have a EGR Valve?

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

Removing the smog system will not throw any codes!!!!!!!!!


Yes you have an EGR valve, but it could be the valve itself or the solenoid that causes the code 32.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

The Hooker 2055's come with a y-piple and are 50-state emissions legal. From Summit they are part# HOK-2055HKR

Here is a link. Comes with everything you need to install. However, if you have Air conditioning...you're going to have fun with the bolt on the passenger side closest to the firewall. You'll be all

Hooker painted 2055 headers

rhit_rs

iTrader: (1)

I went with the Hedman shorty's (PN68470) plus the y-pipe (PN17470). They really helped the car above about 3000 rpm. Prior to installing the headers I removed the smog pump system and had so ses codes. After putting the headers on I now get the 32 code for the egr system. I've not tried a new egr valve, but running all of the diagnostic tests did not indicate a bad egr valve. I have read that some of the egr systems use exhaust back pressure to open the valve. Installing headers lowers the amount of back pressure (a good thing if you want to make power), but lowers it to the point where the egr will no longer be able to open. Since it can't open, it throws the ses light on when it tries to open it. I do have a new egr vavle that I am going to swap onto the car at some point to see if it fixes the problem or not. If it doesn't, I'll just program around it .

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I've had no problems with my 2055's since installing them. Occasionally I get a code (code 45 for the record) that has something to do with the O2 sensor...either it's going bad or I have a bad wire is what I think. It only comes on if I idle or sit in one place too long or do something crazy like drive up a mountain (Not sure why this is). When I drive through the Mountans here, there is a really steep grade of I think it's 12% or something like that, trucks limited to low gear etc.....going up that gives me the code but otherwies doesn't affect anything.

RS-Chevy-SS

Why whats up with the bolt on the passenger side? What do i have to screw with to get the bolt on?

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

It's just hard to reach.

DrummerDad

I bought the 1-5/8 headers, and removed the airtubes, and pump. About every month, I get a light. Soon as I stop the car, and restart, it goes away.
And as for the headers, Id worry more about getting to the plugs after their on. Id rather go to the dentist, than to have to change those two (you guys know which ones Im talking about) plugs.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

HEHE I put my plugs in first and was just careful when running the headers.

As for the bolt, I suggest a LONG handle 3/8 socket driver with a medium-long attachment and a wobble-end socket. hehe I also switched bolt sizes and went from a 7/16 bolt head to a 3/8, that made everything much easier.

OH yeah...and hope you have small hands...it's a complete biatch getting your hands around the air tubes and accumulator for the AC....lol

d4nk

iTrader: (2)

I went with the MAC's. Dont have to worry about busting off thos f*$@ air tubes.

http://www.macperformance.com/store/...Product_ID=449

RS-Chevy-SS

Dude wow you guys are making me not even want to get the things...LOL I want the easiest install lol Someone lay this out step by step haha

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

LOL Easy? hehe you bought the wrong car man.

1. Take off all your air hoses and attachments and pull your spark plug wires (Make sure you mark them)
2. Remove bracket on alternator that holds down the manifold on drivers side (Neigher alternator or power steering pump need to be removed). Make sure you are careful with the 02 sensors and associated wires as well as the fan switch and temperature gauge wire.
3. Remove smog pump hoses and associated hardware on the passenger side (smog pump didn't come out) and loosen/remove the bracket holding the manifold on the passenger side.
4. Jack the car so it's completely off its wheels...or at least the front up to where you can get to the cat comfortably.
4. Disconnect y-pipe at cat and where it connects to the manifolds
5. make sure everything is out of the way of the exhaust manifolds
6. take off the manifolds
7. bust your knuckles and bleed on the car a bit (gives it character)

Install is basically the reverse. I'm sure I forgot a step or two but thats the jist of it. Took me 4 hours start to finish but I didn't really know what I was doing the first time. When I can afford the ceramic headers it'll be much easier the second time. Best of luck to yas!

d4nk

iTrader: (2)

I think these MAC's were the easiest mod i've done to my car. The hardest part was getting the old y-pipe disconnected from the cat. After about 20 swings with the BFH it seemed to come free. I've heard of people having to dimple the hookers around the steering shaft and what not. But with these they just dropped right in and bolted up

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

The 2055's bolt up with no mods, they dont even come close to the steering shaft (relatively speaking). I'll see if I can get a picture of it tomorrow.

DrummerDad

I bought the headmans, and they fit, but not easily. No dimpling, but what a PITA. And you might as well throw those paper gaskets away, unless you want to be replacing them in a few months. I work on helicopters, so Im used to having to get into tight spaces. But those headers had me cussing. They are worth it, but I think next time Ill pay someone else for the hassle.

Edit: dont forget to disconnect the battery. Im not a safety ****, and I rarely disconnect it for anything. But when you have your arm dangling over the upper control arm, and the ratchet, with a swivel, and 6 extensions hits the hot wire on the starter, youre gonna hurt yourself trying to get out from under the car.

RS-Chevy-SS

I like the way those look...But i dont see any actual specs....Also are they the same gains as the hookers? I just want the overall close to stock easiest install not going to throw any codes at all, and about 900 hp increase lol just kidding...a noticeable would be good.....

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

HAHAHA, he said easiest install Sorry bud, your gonna have fun installing them no matter what brand you buy. And I have yet to see any header that will throw a code, unless you forget the O2 sensor. If you go to the prom burning section and read up, you will see that air system isn't set up to throw SES codes. The computer doesn't even know if it's there or not.

4playta

Ditto...comes with the Y-pipe that is a 3", you will want to get a new cat that is 3" in 3" out and run it to your catback and that will open everything up real nice you will notice a difference in performance and sound. I am running the 2055's also and they was very easy to install and I have no clearence issues, if anything I think I gained alittle clearence compared to the stock manifolds.

RS-Chevy-SS

Very good... Im digging this idea... any parts #'s off of summit? Also if anyone isnt to annoyed with me...Can i get like a complete list of **** i need to buy to make this work?? Ive preety much put out the idea of keeping my brand new magnaflow 2.25 inch inlet and 2.75 inch outlet cat...

4playta

Here are your headers, comes with Y-Pipe.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Here is the C-converter you will need.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294791976

1bad86z28

Thank god there are no emission checks in Iowa, or I would be screwed on almost all of my cars! I hate cats, smog pumps, emission stuff period.

RS-Chevy-SS

K kool...Thanks for the links...Also about the cat will this one work?? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...633+4294840138

Reason being i already have the magnaflow and i like the easy install...Also it says those headers are for TPI engines only....Will they work? Also any gaskets or bolts i need?? How restrictive are those headers?

4playta

The headers will work...the cat you posted will most likely not, you need a 3" in 3" out slipfit like the one I posted.

RS-Chevy-SS

Damnit!! That Y pipe doesnt have a flange to bolt the cat to?? If not then how does it say on??

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It clamps on.

Why would you mess with a universal cat when a Catco 9118 is intended for the same application as the Hooker 2055HKR headers?

kuulkatdadieo

iTrader: (1)

All the computer does is give juice to the smog pump regulator. The thing you take the two connectors off when you take the smog pump and all that off. Definately cleans up the engine bay. I would suggest it if you don't have to have a visual.

RS-Chevy-SS

Im preety sure that cat i pointed out isnt universal... But hey i forgot about this issue...The inlet for the flowmaster pipe right after the cat is 2.75 So am i going to have to buy a 3 in inlet cat with a 2.75 inch outlet? What are my options?

4playta

You cut that 2.75" adapter off and use that 3" in and out slip fit cat I posted a link for...if you have a 3" catback you want to use your whole 3"s you dont want any bottle necks! You do have a 3" catback correct? And then you used an adapter to mate it to your stock cat I am assuming?

If that is the case headers> Y-Pipe 3" out> 3' in/out slip fit cat> 3" catback bada bing, bada boom!

If you have a 2.75" catback still get a 3" in and 3"out slipfit cat and then use an 3" to 2.75" adaptor to your catback that way if you ever make alot of power upgrades in the future the only thing you would need to do for your exhaust is switch from a 2.75 catback to a 3" catback...2.75 will flow plenty for what you have now, a 3" will flow good for up to around 400hp.

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

In your sig, you say you have a 3" Flowmaster catback, so why not get a 3" outlet on the cat, and connect it right up to the 3" catback?????

RS-Chevy-SS

Yes I do have the 3 inch catback but when i bought the thing and the new cat i bought exactly what it already had so the cat is a 2.25 inlet and 2.50 outlet...The flowmaster pipe that connects to the cat i 3" tapered down to 2.50 to fit the cat...The cat is flange bolted.... That clear things up? If i cut the thing id have to reweld more pipe to match up to the cat which i dont know how to do.. and you said 2.75 inch is plenty flow? So i should be good for that short amount of time right? Also what do i do to make a cat fit this setup? Do they sale 3" inlet and 2.75 outlet?

RS-Chevy-SS

UPDATE!
Hey guys sorry the outlet form the cat is actually 2.50 Inches!!! Sorry its not 2.75 so thats an even bigger disadvantage

RS-Chevy-SS

Okay so i just talked to flowmaster and resolved the issue with the pipe right after cat being 2.50" They will sell me the pipe off the system designed for the single 3" Cat converter for about $25 total so thats solved.... Now heres the parts that im going to buy please let me know if something wont fit the other or if im missing anything Also on the headers are the primary sizes bigger then the ports? Or is it the same size? Anyone know the size of the manifold primarys? So all together im looking at about $620 for the whole thing from summit...Am i getting rapped on that?

Headers
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Cat Converter

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

RS-Chevy-SS

O one question.... What about 02 Sensor?

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

Some headers come pre-installed with a O2 bung, if not, buy a O2 bung, drill appropriate size hole near the collector, weld bung in. If you can't do it, take them to an exhaust shop and have them weld it on for ya, just make sure you mark the spot where you want the bung. Otherwise they might put the bung in a spot that won't allow the sensor to go fit with the headers installed.

4playta

You might be able to find a cat for cheaper, I just posted that one to show you what you need a 3in 3 out slip fit...it is a quality cat though comes with heat shield and its made out of stainless steel. Remember get what ya pay for...you might find cheaper but next year it could have a big hole in it where the rust ate through it. I have almost the same system with out cat and I have around $700 in it!