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New build 400 sbc. New plugs, wires & HEI distributor. ACCEL Performance Replacement Distributors 59130 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-59130

I'm having a problem getting it started/running. Misses bad. If I can get it above 2000 rpm (not easy to do) it seems to run good. But once it goes below that it stumbles bad sometimes it just dies. I have had it idling (only once) at about 1000 rpm but not smooth. No vacuum leaks. I've turned the distributor from one extreme to the other. I have checked the firing order on the wires/cap several times. I even checked the book to make sure I have the right order and direction. I know the attitude towards these new distributors is low. Does it sound like a bad distributor? Ideas? Suggestions?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Sounds kinda more like lots of valves are too tight.

Back em all off 1 full turn and see where that takes you.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

I second this. Back in the day when I did financially and time wasteful activities to my 305 I had this same issue. Back them all off and start the lash over. You can even do it while the engine is running, albeit a little messy.

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That seems to be the issue. Once I got the timing close it would start right up didn't even have to touch the gas. I couldn't get it to idle lower than 1000 rpm with out it dieing but it wasn't fully warmed up. My fuel pump doesn't stay running (oil pressure sender/switch on the way) so I couldn't run it long enough to get warmed up. sender should be here tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes. Thank you. I never would have thought to check that.

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Originally I adjusted the valves (in July on the stand) to zero lash plus 1/2 turn on the rocker nut. It ran like crap. Roller Rockers with Polyloc's, each time I adjusted the valves I turned the rocker nut with my fingers until it lighted stopped and called that zero lash. As suggested I backed off the nut one turn, I marked every rocker nut first. It run better. The rockers were sloppy loose. Then I adjusted to zero lash plus 1/4 turn. It ran like crap. Then 0.010 lash on the intake & 0.015 on the exhaust. Still ran like crap. And they were loose. Then backed off almost one full turn again and it ran better. The more it got warmed up the better it ran. I had it idling at 750 and smooth but not completely warmed up so I thought that was pretty good. Keep in mind the ambient temp was 30 degrees so that was probably part of the problem. And the fuel pump wouldn't stay running. Now fixed. I will try it again tomorrow and see how it goes. I read about sometimes the lifters (Hydraulic rollers) can be collapsed or they get oil locked in the extended position and then act like solids. I could not compress the lifter when I backed off the rocker nuts using a rubber handle hammer and pushed down hard on the rocker over the push rod, no I didn't hit them. They act like they are solids. But since they all act that way....maybe it's just me???? And I will adjust the valves again once it's warmed up and running. So how much of this sounds normal?

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I pulled the intake and took out the lifters for #1. I put them in a vice (lightly) with soft jaws on the flats where the rivet is. (retro fit hydraulic rollers with links). I could not get the plunger to compress and spring back as they should. The plunger is up tight to the C clip. I worked brake cleaner in the oil hole that goes in the oil galley and on top where the push rod goes. I couldn't get them to budge. I will call the mfg. Monday. Thoughts?

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Any comments would be appreciated.

stew'86MCSS396

In post #5 it sounds like they ran the best when treated like solid lifters. I'd pull them all out and see if they all are "hydraulic" locked. You never shared the part number of what you're using so one can only assume, perhaps start looking at the part number and see if they sold you what you think you have.

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Howards Cams Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshaft and Lifter Kits CL110255-12

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL110255-12