Anyone have issues with Dorman Vortec timing cover?
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Car: 89 chevy s10
Engine: L31
Transmission: NV3500
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW 2.77 Posi
Anyone have issues with Dorman Vortec timing cover?
Has anyone had any issues with the vortec 5.7 crank position sensor when mounted in a Dorman front timing cover? I installed the Dorman cover instead of OEM because of the price difference, but now I may have to pull the engine to get another timing cover in. Is this a known issue?
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Car: 89 chevy s10
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Re: Anyone have issues with Dorman Vortec timing cover?
For clarification, it's the L31 engine with the 4 lobe timing trigger wheel.
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Re: Anyone have issues with Dorman Vortec timing cover?
My factory installed OEM cover as well as the OEM cover on my crate engine and then the Dorman cover ALL leaked in 1-2 years time. The plastic cover is garbage. I put a Holley aluminum cover on my 383. At ~$70 at the time it was worth the cost from the sheer fact it will not warp and leak and is reusable with a normal SBC timing cover gasket. Don't waste your time on the absolute garbage plastic covers. Get the Holley aluminum and do it once.
One other tip, use the GM stiffening rails on the oil pan and the 1-piece rubber pan gasket. Put RTV on the corners of the block where the pain rail meets timing cover and rear seal housing and the gaskets. My lower end has not dripped a drop of oil. The top end is leak free too. Aluminum valve covers with felpro rubber gaskets, fiber paper intake gaskets and silicone on the china rails. 4 of my intake bolts also required sealer on the threads because they went through the heads into the lifter valley.
One other tip, use the GM stiffening rails on the oil pan and the 1-piece rubber pan gasket. Put RTV on the corners of the block where the pain rail meets timing cover and rear seal housing and the gaskets. My lower end has not dripped a drop of oil. The top end is leak free too. Aluminum valve covers with felpro rubber gaskets, fiber paper intake gaskets and silicone on the china rails. 4 of my intake bolts also required sealer on the threads because they went through the heads into the lifter valley.
Last edited by Fast355; 06-27-2022 at 12:05 PM.
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Car: 89 chevy s10
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Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW 2.77 Posi
Re: Anyone have issues with Dorman Vortec timing cover?
Fantastic! I didn't know Holley made these, I've gone through two OEM ($75) each, and Dorman ($30) now since they are "one time use" and were worse for wear when removing them. Our lower end setup matches the rest of your description though. I guess it's time to remove the engine for the new cover again There's always a reason between races right?
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Re: Anyone have issues with Dorman Vortec timing cover?
Have anyone tried the two piece timing chain cover? I tried replacing my timing chain cover in the car by removing all the engine oil pan bolts except the last two on the corners. I did put RTV on the corners at the front in the corners that was recommended. Only hard part was getting the timing chain cover over the gasket and seating it with the oil pan gasket. It was difficult seeing when a good seal was made. I was wondering if a two piece timing chain cover would allow a better view of the timing chain cover making a good contact onto the oil pan gasket. I know it is better to replace the timing chain cover by removing the engine but I have read of some very successful jobs with the engine in the car. Any success with the engine in the car and using the two piece timing chain cover? Any help very much appreciated!!
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
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Re: Anyone have issues with Dorman Vortec timing cover?
My factory installed OEM cover as well as the OEM cover on my crate engine and then the Dorman cover ALL leaked in 1-2 years time. The plastic cover is garbage. I put a Holley aluminum cover on my 383. At ~$70 at the time it was worth the cost from the sheer fact it will not warp and leak and is reusable with a normal SBC timing cover gasket. Don't waste your time on the absolute garbage plastic covers. Get the Holley aluminum and do it once.
One other tip, use the GM stiffening rails on the oil pan and the 1-piece rubber pan gasket. Put RTV on the corners of the block where the pain rail meets timing cover and rear seal housing and the gaskets. My lower end has not dripped a drop of oil. The top end is leak free too. Aluminum valve covers with felpro rubber gaskets, fiber paper intake gaskets and silicone on the china rails. 4 of my intake bolts also required sealer on the threads because they went through the heads into the lifter valley.
One other tip, use the GM stiffening rails on the oil pan and the 1-piece rubber pan gasket. Put RTV on the corners of the block where the pain rail meets timing cover and rear seal housing and the gaskets. My lower end has not dripped a drop of oil. The top end is leak free too. Aluminum valve covers with felpro rubber gaskets, fiber paper intake gaskets and silicone on the china rails. 4 of my intake bolts also required sealer on the threads because they went through the heads into the lifter valley.
Sounds like good advice! I hate doing jobs again due to POS crap! This RARELY HAPPENED, when I got into the Auto Repair Business, in 1974, and for some years afterward.
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