Starter/Ignition/Clutch switch wiring from alarm?
#1
Starter/Ignition/Clutch switch wiring from alarm?
I have a build thread I started but wanted to post to this specific sub forum. I am removing the GM Goodwrench alarm from my 88 5 speed car. I am down to this connector. I reached way up and was able to pull it down from whatever box it was attached to. These are both thick wires. A purple one and a yellow one. When they installed the alarm, they cut it and bypassed the connector for some reason. Should I be able to cut their crimp out and solder or crimp the red circles together and the blue circles together to complete the circuit like OEM? I want to be sure.
#2
Re: Starter/Ignition/Clutch switch wiring from alarm?
Ok so I just realized the guy gave me the electrical diagnosis book so I looked it up. I am not real savvy at reading these diagrams and couldn't figure out why the figure shows 1 wire in and 1 out but there are 2 wires (yellow and purple) coming out of the clutch start switch. I am guessing this means that the yellow is normally conducted through the switch then when the clutch is pressed, it changes the charge to the purple wire to start?
#3
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Re: Starter/Ignition/Clutch switch wiring from alarm?
In your second pic, your looking at the clutch start switch itself, VS your first pic where you are looking at just the connector (labeled "C243" in your second pic) for the two wires. If you want to reestablish the connection as factory yes you very well can do what your asking, with two considerations;
#1, I'd first make damned sure that the connector is OK, not burnt or otherwise not making a good solid connection. It would really suck to put it back into the circuit only to discover it can't pass the current your starter's solenoid needs to operate.
And,
#2, If your gonna fix it, fix it right, no crimp connections but instead use a proper "western union" splice, soldered, and insulated with heat shrink.....
#1, I'd first make damned sure that the connector is OK, not burnt or otherwise not making a good solid connection. It would really suck to put it back into the circuit only to discover it can't pass the current your starter's solenoid needs to operate.
And,
#2, If your gonna fix it, fix it right, no crimp connections but instead use a proper "western union" splice, soldered, and insulated with heat shrink.....
Last edited by OrangeBird; 07-27-2023 at 06:46 PM.
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04-18-2007 11:34 AM