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Got something weird going on with my 87 formula 350. I have swapped out all the brake and turn signals to LED and did the LED flasher swap year and years ago. I left the side marker lights out because when I put them in (led or normal bulb) the flashers in the front turn signals don’t work. Instead the side markers flash. But don’t work as running lights. I believe I swapped out the turn signal flasher for the electronic LED version with the ground wire but I can’t remember if I did the hazard. When I activate the hazards the rears flash as intended but the fronts do not with bulbs in the side markers. Once I remove the side marker bulbs the front turn signals work as intended for turn signal and for hazards. Side marker bulbs in and I only get running lights on the front turn signal housings but no flash. I think I want to put side marker lights in but I don’t want to if I can’t figure out this problem.
any ideas? Rear lights work perfect no matter what I do up front.
The side markers ground through the front marker lights, and why they flash. That being said, I have LED in every socket and all my lights work as intended, so I think it must be because of the LED light you have in your front marker light. I had a regular LED in the front before and it worked, but now I have switchbacks in there and it still works, so it's gotta be the bulb in the front signal
The side markers ground through the front marker lights, and why they flash. That being said, I have LED in every socket and all my lights work as intended, so I think it must be because of the LED light you have in your front marker light. I had a regular LED in the front before and it worked, but now I have switchbacks in there and it still works, so it's gotta be the bulb in the front signal
easy enough, I will swap them out and report back. I will try different 1157s LED and regular and see if there is any difference. What’s weird too was I was only seeing 8.75 ish volts on the running lights at the front turn signals. Over at the side markers I was getting full 12v but 4 different brands and only 1 lit up in the socket.
So I went through everything, I upgraded both turn signal and hazard flashers to CEC electronic flashers so they aren’t the issue. I confirmed my front turn signal lights are not cheapo’s and morimoto XB2 1157s but I tried 4 different brands in LED.
I verified you are correct, LEDs in front turn signals and LED in front sided marker = full turn signal brightness all the time and no flashing and no side marker light at all or it will be very dim. The side without the marker light will flash and operate correctly but has no 194 bulb in the front side marker.
Next all is the same except 194 regular bulbs in side marker and no difference.
replace front turn signal with regular 2057 halogen and I get correct LED side marker dim and full bright with flashing.
seems the only way it will work is if I have a halogen in the front turn signal.
so my next question is… how do I keep all my LED and get correct lighting with all lights working correctly? I’ve tried lots of different brands plus even canbus bulbs and no dice. I’m not against halogen in my front turn signals but I thought by replacing my flashers with electronic versions this wouldn’t be an issue. I even tested the flasher with a spare and still the same thing. I don’t want to add load resistors or anything like that as it shouldn’t be necessary with the electronic flashers.
I personally have not had the patience to experiment with the many different Flashers that do not require a Load.
There are so many different LED Bulbs, and so many different Flashers for LED Bulbs...
That I have not been able to obtain consistent results; unless using a Stock Flasher and appropriate Resistors (to create the Load).
If anyone here has any combinations that they are willing to share...
I am always happy to learn new information!
I always offering Lighting Packages to my customers...
Essentially updating/ upgrading all the External Lighting to modern Delphi sealed Electrical-Connector and Sockets for the Light-Bulbs and Ballasts.
As well as HID Head-Lamp, Fog-Lamp, and Reverse-Lamp Sets... and LEDs for everything else.
I do not want to add resistors, hacking up the wiring for a bulb doesn't make any sense that isn't really all that much brighter than a normal 2057 bulb. I prefer my systems to plug and play or minimal alterations. You would think someone would make a bulb with a built in resistor that mimicks the pull of a normal halogen bulb thus fooling the flasher making it truly plug and play. I don't really care about the reduced amperage draw as I feel like most wouldn't and its all about the added brightness and the quick on/off times.
So I went through everything, I upgraded both turn signal and hazard flashers to CEC electronic flashers so they aren’t the issue. I confirmed my front turn signal lights are not cheapo’s and morimoto XB2 1157s but I tried 4 different brands in LED.
I verified you are correct, LEDs in front turn signals and LED in front sided marker = full turn signal brightness all the time and no flashing and no side marker light at all or it will be very dim. The side without the marker light will flash and operate correctly but has no 194 bulb in the front side marker.
Next all is the same except 194 regular bulbs in side marker and no difference.
replace front turn signal with regular 2057 halogen and I get correct LED side marker dim and full bright with flashing.
seems the only way it will work is if I have a halogen in the front turn signal.
so my next question is… how do I keep all my LED and get correct lighting with all lights working correctly? I’ve tried lots of different brands plus even canbus bulbs and no dice. I’m not against halogen in my front turn signals but I thought by replacing my flashers with electronic versions this wouldn’t be an issue. I even tested the flasher with a spare and still the same thing. I don’t want to add load resistors or anything like that as it shouldn’t be necessary with the electronic flashers.
Maybe there is a difference in the wiring between the 87 and my 92? I'll have to check the books.
So strange because I first just had LEDs in the signal from superbrightLEDs and worked fine, then I went to the V6 Triton switchback and it still works properly with the electronic flasher. I even went out and verified after I posted to make sure I wasn't full of sh it
The only other thing I can suggest is looking at the base of the LED bulb. I have had one bulb where the orientation of the terminals on the bottom of the socket were not correct compared to the incandescent version and when you twisted the bulb into the socket it would touch the wrong terminals in the base
@vorteciroc once he put the electronic flasher in there the load becomes irrelevant since the rears work. The E flasher opens and closes regardless of the load, as long as there is a load it functions.
You need a LED side marker bulb that is polarity sensitive and flasher with a ground wire. That is what we have been using for our led bulbs we sell and haven't had issues with customers having problems. Most led bulbs are not polarity sensitive since that makes them a lot easier to install. You can tell if it's polarity sensitive if the bulb only works one way, if you spin the bulb 180 degrees and reinstall it won't light up. We have done testing on bulbs we don't sell and most problems are with the flashers but have had some bulbs cause weird problems also thou. Below are links to what we're using for installs and with the bulbs we sell.
You need a LED side marker bulb that is polarity sensitive and flasher with a ground wire. That is what we have been using for our led bulbs we sell and haven't had issues with customers having problems. Most led bulbs are not polarity sensitive since that makes them a lot easier to install. You can tell if it's polarity sensitive if the bulb only works one way, if you spin the bulb 180 degrees and reinstall it won't light up. We have done testing on bulbs we don't sell and most problems are with the flashers but have had some bulbs cause weird problems also thou. Below are links to what we're using for installs and with the bulbs we sell.
i have done everything u already stated and still no dice.
I have dual electronic flashers with ground wires (that are grounded). I have tried non polarity and bulbs that don’t care… I’ve even put stock 194 incandescent bulbs back in and nothing works . Only time it works is with a normal 1157/2057 and I’m about to test a 2357 bulb in the front marker. ***** and giggles I picked up polarity sensitive LEDs T10 and I have a pair of lasfit non polarity sensitive LEDs coming as another member said they worked for him.
i have done everything u already stated and still no dice.
I have dual electronic flashers with ground wires (that are grounded). I have tried non polarity and bulbs that don’t care… I’ve even put stock 194 incandescent bulbs back in and nothing works . Only time it works is with a normal 1157/2057 and I’m about to test a 2357 bulb in the front marker. ***** and giggles I picked up polarity sensitive LEDs T10 and I have a pair of lasfit non polarity sensitive LEDs coming as another member said they worked for him.
Since none of what your describing is normal for a 1987 Firebird I would check the ground on the lighting circuit, turn signal socket and wiring for issues. Bad grounds can cause all kinds of weird problems. What I described above works on every 3rd gen I've worked on, but only if everything is working like normal. Recently had a bad headlight switch which was causing turn signals to stay on all the time (not blink just stay on, switchbacks wouldn't go to white), once I replaced the headlight switch everything worked perfect. That doesn't sound like your problem just an example of other parts in the system causing turn signal problems.
I tried some new polarity sensitive T10 LEDs that I got from Amazon (cheapo not high end but not the worst I guess) $11 for 12 of them. I put those in with the morimoto XB LED 1157 and it worked! However the XB and side markers were like 1/2 power/brightness. I swapped out the XBs for new 2357 incandescent bulbs I got from Amazon and boom full power to both. Honestly these 2357 are the same brightness as the high powered LED XBs and some of the other Amazon HO LED bulbs. Besides the slightly slower on/off time I’m good with this. Best part is the 2357 is $9 for 10 bulbs and super easy to change out lol.
Took some pics for you guys and a sneak peak to my new fog lights which have built in DRLs and are stupid bright but aren’t true fogs (Silvana LED light bar 10* spot). I’m not impressed with the low beam of the JW speaker 8900 series 5x7 and when I had DOT SAE fog pods they helped short distance but I need more distance without running the high beams all the time. I’m haven’t driven to take any good output shots but they throw a lot of light and quality construction with real Osram chips. I will be putting a thread up soon.
XB turn signal see how dim the marker light is on the right 2357 bulb same brightness as 1156 on low setting, side marker is full brightness now. Driver side done, 2357 turn signal and LED side marker. No noticeable dimness from the XB on pass side and 2357 on driver. Silvania light bar with DRL All done, JW speakers and DRLs
I solved my no flash side marker light by getting non polarity 194 amber CAN BUS leds from Superbright LEDs. I have 2 grounded led flashers and all LED Turns, markers, brakes, and reverse led bulbs. The first side marker lights where polarity sensitive. So I bought the non polarity and problem solved.
1. polar sensitive LED -
09-26-2021, 12:27 PM
