NJ2FLIROC

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,
So I have an 88 IROC that has sat for some time (in an air conditioned garage) and finally got her running. I love the car, and have owned it since 89. I went to open the rear hatch with the key and the motor pushed up the hatch, i fully opened the hatch. I went to shut it and it just clunked. The motor did not engage, nor pull it down. I have courtesy lights so i don't think it's the fuse. I tried pushing down on the black tab as seen in the youtube video in some of the hatch issue prior posts on this forum and it did nothing. Bad motor? Should i just get a new one from Top Down Solutions? Any other trouble shooting ideas?
As always, any insight is appreciated.
Regards
ARA

vorteciroc

The Interior-Lights and the Relay for the Lift-Gate Latch are both on the 20A Accessories Fuse.

Also the Interior-Lights pass through the C238 (Power-Accessory Junction-Block) Connector... check continuity.
I would look at this Fuse, and then test the Power and Ground Circuits for continuity.

NJ2FLIROC

iTrader: (1)

I replaced the ACC fuse and the courtesy lights and dome lights worked, so i don't think it's the fuse.
Where is the Power ACC Junction block?
THanks for your post.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Check the fuse block for a 15A 'hatch' fuse. That would be for the pull down motor.

RBob.

NJ2FLIROC

iTrader: (1)

I think there is only one 15A fuse that says "Crank", is that the one you're referring to?

NJ2FLIROC

iTrader: (1)

i think the "hatch" fuse is on 90 and later cars.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

That may be, look for a 'lid' fuse, same 15 A. The crank fuse is usually a 3A unit. This view of the fuse block may not be entirely correct, but is a starting point.



RBob.

i88aGT

I have a some suggestions for ya.
Test the relay and consider the reversing switch (it has a diode, or it can jam). The switch the hatch hook presses on and wiring can also be bad (it has a diode or something too).
I think the relays by the battery for the fans are the same if you wanna try and swap to test.
Now, I had same symptoms as you and it was corrosion in relay affecting the coil, and bad reverse switch diode.
But the takeaway should really be, look at Top Down Solutions diagnosis guides and thread replies. Because you gotta find and address ALL problems up front. Otherwise it's an endless cycle of things breaking and taking that stupid thing apart. And ppl asking what are you doing? And you saying fixing my trunk motor. And awkward pauses. And then you having to explain what the heck a trunk motor even is because they dont understand. And them replying that sounds problematic. And it is at that moment that you will want to throw the pull-down unit at them, but you cannot disconnect it fast enough to chuck it at them before they walk away. But by the third time it happens youre so damn fast at disassembly you get it up above your head ready to hurl it at them, but then you'll remember how much they cost to replace. And remember that everyone out there raiding junkyards for hatch glass will have taken all the hatch motors too. And you'll slowly lower it back down. And you'll resume what has become your abysmal relationship as slave and master to your '80s gm car that dominates all your time.
Anyway...
If you need your electrical parts rebuilt maybe ask top down? Theres also another guy who is good, he has a website and is also on ebay. If he doesnt have a listing for your part just email him. Ive done business with him couple times. And I know he still does them.
I wish you luck.