Bare wire going to starter?
#1
Bare wire going to starter?
Hey everyone, I was doing my spark plugs last night (it was a real frustrating experience) and I was inspecting some grounds and areas around the starter.
I noticed this
The area circled in red... Two wires going into what looks like a capacitor of some sort.
The angle wasn't the best, but I was able to wrap some electrical tape around it. What do these go to and what kind of trouble could they cause?
Also the area in blue. I just noticed this after uploading the picture. It looks like a weather pack seal of some sort. What is it?
Thanks!
I noticed this
The area circled in red... Two wires going into what looks like a capacitor of some sort.
The angle wasn't the best, but I was able to wrap some electrical tape around it. What do these go to and what kind of trouble could they cause?
Also the area in blue. I just noticed this after uploading the picture. It looks like a weather pack seal of some sort. What is it?
Thanks!
#2
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Car: Resto-Mod 1987 IROC-Z Clone
Engine: Alky fed L92 Vortec Twin-Turbo 6.8L
Transmission: My own built/ design 4L80M
Axle/Gears: Custom 12 bolt (4.10:1)
Re: Bare wire going to starter?
What looks like orange Wires (connected to the Stater Motor Solenoid) that have a Black cylinder, and turn into Red Wires...
are the MAIN POWER connections for the Ignition-Switch, Headlight-Switch, and others.
What you are looking at, are called Fusible-Links.
At this point in time, Maxi Fuses (40A, 50A, 60A, Etc) and Mega Fuses (100A +) did not exist yet.
Fusible-Links are a wire that will burn-up/ break connection (like a Fuse) when the Current passing through exceeds it's rating.
It is very important that those exposed Red Wires do not make ground-contact...
and must be repaired.
The other wire, in your Image looks like a broken Knock-Sensor Connector.
Here is what the Sensor looks like:
Here is what the Connector SHOULD look like:
are the MAIN POWER connections for the Ignition-Switch, Headlight-Switch, and others.
What you are looking at, are called Fusible-Links.
At this point in time, Maxi Fuses (40A, 50A, 60A, Etc) and Mega Fuses (100A +) did not exist yet.
Fusible-Links are a wire that will burn-up/ break connection (like a Fuse) when the Current passing through exceeds it's rating.
It is very important that those exposed Red Wires do not make ground-contact...
and must be repaired.
The other wire, in your Image looks like a broken Knock-Sensor Connector.
Here is what the Sensor looks like:
Here is what the Connector SHOULD look like:
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NoEmissions84TA (07-09-2021)
#3
Re: Bare wire going to starter?
So thats where the knock sensor is? I thought that might have been the coolant temp switch.
I recently got a code related to the knock sensor, wonder if this part of the problem. My replacement actually should have came in today.
Was going to do the coolant switch too, cause I have some issues with my fan constantly running.
How would you suggest going about fixing these exposed wires? Can we purchase fusible links for a direct replacement or would another method be more desirable?
I recently got a code related to the knock sensor, wonder if this part of the problem. My replacement actually should have came in today.
Was going to do the coolant switch too, cause I have some issues with my fan constantly running.
How would you suggest going about fixing these exposed wires? Can we purchase fusible links for a direct replacement or would another method be more desirable?
#5
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Car: Resto-Mod 1987 IROC-Z Clone
Engine: Alky fed L92 Vortec Twin-Turbo 6.8L
Transmission: My own built/ design 4L80M
Axle/Gears: Custom 12 bolt (4.10:1)
Re: Bare wire going to starter?
Some Years built with Air-Conditioning, do have one Fusible-Link that has Two Red Wires connected.
A 10AWG Wire and a 12AWG Wire.
The 12AWG Wire would go to the HVAC High-Speed Blower-Relay.
The 10AWG Wire goes through the C100 Bulk-Head Electrical Connector...
and then becomes the S200 Splice-Pack into multiple large gauge Wires.
A 10AWG Wire and a 12AWG Wire.
The 12AWG Wire would go to the HVAC High-Speed Blower-Relay.
The 10AWG Wire goes through the C100 Bulk-Head Electrical Connector...
and then becomes the S200 Splice-Pack into multiple large gauge Wires.
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T.L. (07-10-2021)
#7
Supreme Member
Re: Bare wire going to starter?
Following this thread as I just used my high speed blower as a permanent kill switch.
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#9
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Car: Resto-Mod 1987 IROC-Z Clone
Engine: Alky fed L92 Vortec Twin-Turbo 6.8L
Transmission: My own built/ design 4L80M
Axle/Gears: Custom 12 bolt (4.10:1)
Re: Bare wire going to starter?
I just want to make certain...
You do plan to remove the Wires from the Starter Motor Solenoid, in order to perform your Wiring repair.
... to provide you a lot more room to work.
... and most importantly, disconnect the Main Ground-Cable from the Battery FIRST.
You do plan to remove the Wires from the Starter Motor Solenoid, in order to perform your Wiring repair.
... to provide you a lot more room to work.
... and most importantly, disconnect the Main Ground-Cable from the Battery FIRST.
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#11
Re: Bare wire going to starter?
So, it turns out I gotta replace my starter too. So I am gonna do everything at once.
I seem to be having an issue with the whole fusible link concept.
Is this an actual fusible link? Or just a wire? Not sure...
Or is this more what I am looking at... Here
I seem to be having an issue with the whole fusible link concept.
Is this an actual fusible link? Or just a wire? Not sure...
Or is this more what I am looking at... Here
#12
Re: Bare wire going to starter?
Alright cool. I think what's throwing me off is how different they look from the stock ones. I didn't realize they can just load it in the wire like that.
Thanks again, ordering these tonight
14gauge is outta stock unfortunately.
Thanks again, ordering these tonight
14gauge is outta stock unfortunately.
Last edited by Annihilate; 07-21-2021 at 08:48 PM.
#14
Junior Member
#16
Junior Member
Re: Bare wire going to starter?
Cool, you'll like it. You prob know, but the wires will need to be a little longer to reach, but since youre dredoing yours it should be good. (They can reach stock length with spacers).
Glad you started this thread, the fusible link info is good stuff.
Good luck!
Glad you started this thread, the fusible link info is good stuff.
Good luck!
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