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Guys, BOTH my door locks don't work. All metal rods and components are clean and smooth, freshly lubed, and work like butter. Driver side switch is known bad/broken, but wiring seems intact, and it's getting power. Passenger side works, and both lock and unlock show 12v at the relay respectively. The relay itself has 12v. ...the relay then sends a grey and a tan to each door. This is where I get lost, and I'm not sure exactly how to read the diagram. My thought was that I'd see 12v on either the gray or tan, depending on whether I push lock or unlock. Same DC motor, different polarity for different direction, right? Well regardless of which direction I push, I get 12v on one wire, and .5V on the other. They don't switch. Now I do concede I don't know exactly how it's supposed to work, but wouldn't ONE way still work? I physically moved the actuator to the lock and unlock position as well as the actual lock itself, and still nothing. I know that if it's locked and you push lock, you still get that little twitch of movement.
The wiring and multimeter seem to suggest it's the relay, plus BOTH locks don't work..... .... but even then I feel like ONE direction, either lock or unlock should work, making me question the actuator.
Thoughts? Given the symbols on the diagram, anyone know what the multimeter should read on the tan and gray wire at the door lock actuator?
The relay does reverse the polarity on the tan and grey wires . If your using a modern digital meter , with the meter's + probe on tan and - probe on grey , one direction (either up or down) should have the meter reading "+12V" , and the other direction (either down or up) should have it reading "-12V" . If it passes this test your relay is ok , if not your relay likely has bad (burnt) contacts .
Also , it bears mention that you said "The relay has 12 volts" , you did check the orange/black wire going into the relay as well as the orange going to the switches , yes ?
As per this 1992 diagram (pretty sure all are similar) the relay's coils are fed power from the orange wire (through the up/down switches) and the relay's switched contacts are fed power from the orange/black .
Needless to say both wires mush have +12V on them for the circuit to function ......
If your using a modern digital meter , with the meter's + probe on tan and - probe on grey , one direction (either up or down) should have the meter reading "+12V" , and the other direction (either down or up) should have it reading "-12V" .
That's what I was looking for. Thank you! ....i will check this tonight, but IIRC, it was NOT what I was reading. I'll check tonight.
Also , it bears mention that you said "The relay has 12 volts" , you did check the orange/black wire going into the relay as well as the orange going to the switches , yes ?
The relay has constant 12v at the orange/black. The GOOD switch, in the passenger door isn't accessible as it's still "in" the door, but when i press it, I get 12v at the relay on either the black or blue wires coming FROM the switch. Figured that was an indication of the switch working.
That's what I was looking for. Thank you! ....i will check this tonight, but IIRC, it was NOT what I was reading. I'll check tonight.
The relay has constant 12v at the orange/black. The GOOD switch, in the passenger door isn't accessible as it's still "in" the door, but when i press it, I get 12v at the relay on either the black or blue wires coming FROM the switch. Figured that was an indication of the switch working.
Very good , getting power on the black or blue when pushing the switch up or down does indeed prove the switch is working . I won't be surprised if you find that it is the relay having gone bad ....
Sigh......ok......long story short, the mounting screw for the door lock relay is how the relay is grounded. ...if it's unhooked because let's say you just replace your door hinge and needed access to the bolts? -yeah....now the relay is no longer grounded.
Ask me how I know. LOL.....which explains all the wonky multimeter readings.
Sigh......ok......long story short, the mounting screw for the door lock relay is how the relay is grounded. ...if it's unhooked because let's say you just replace your door hinge and needed access to the bolts? -yeah....now the relay is no longer grounded.
Ask me how I know. LOL.....which explains all the wonky multimeter readings.
Sweet ! Gotta love it when it turns out to be something so easy to fix .
10-20-2020, 07:38 PM
Very good , getting power on the black or blue when pushing the switch up or down does indeed prove the switch is working . I won't be surprised if you find that it is the relay having gone bad ....
Sigh......ok......long story short, the mounting screw for the door lock relay is how the relay is grounded. ...if it's unhooked because let's say you just replace your door hinge and needed access to the bolts? -yeah....now the relay is no longer grounded.
Sweet ! Gotta love it when it turns out to be something so easy to fix . 