Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

What do you do?

Tried searching, but didn't find anything recent. My key's were stolen recently, and thankfully I don't have to worry about anyone trying to figure out which car they belong to since I wasn't anywhere near home. But if someone wants to steal my car and wreck it, please make sure you wreck it good, I got agreed value insurance.

But I recently called a few dealers looking to get new key's cut. And the VIN# lookup for my car now returns a 2014 Malibu. The dealers also can't even order the key's any longer. Now, there is nothing F-body specific about the GM Vats keys. So how have other owners here gotten around this issue in 2020.

Several years ago my door key broke and I just got a new door key cut with the Vin and code. But now dealers can't even get the keys. I'm sure I can find the key's on eBay, just not sure exactly which blank is needed. There is probably also the Lock Smith option, but that might be more expensive than I want to try as a first try.

VATS is not a problem for me, as I have an LT1 swap and VATS is long gone, so I just need a key that physically fits and matches the cylinder cut.

I suppose I could go the route of jimmying the door open, and then change both the door and ignition cylinders, but it would be cheaper and easier to just have new key's cut.

Also, if a Mod wants to move this to General, or History, those might be better places. Didn't realize I posted it in Electronics.

daferris

iTrader: (8)

You have an error in your VIN double check the number as something is off with it.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

We went over the VIN 3x to be sure, and he repeated it back to me as he was typing it.

CKone

iTrader: (2)

This sounds really unfortunate and wish I had a solution to offer. I have found myself in a spot of not being able to locate my keys for one third gen for quite some time. Not that they were needed since car wasn’t running but still a pain nonetheless. The next one I bought I had copies made first thing, and even had a non vats key cut for ignition for just in case a situation where it needed moved out of way but vats key was unavailable. Have never needed them thankfully but certainly something we take for granted until it’s too late. And funny you buy a new car and they give you two sets and you only use one so years later you have a brand new set of keys and fobs 🤷🏻‍♂️

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

That kind of happened with the Focus RS since those were on the same key chain.

Except since its a transponder I absolutely HAD to have the old key deleted. But, since my first Focus RS was totaled, I still had the original's 2nd key. So when I went into the dealership they deleted the stolen key, and added the old original key. So I still ended up with two keys.

I've found a few places on-line that sell blanks for pretty cheap. Will probably just buy a blank ignition and door key then try to have them cut using the codes.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

I've l already considered and discarded replacing the locks.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Any good locksmith can handle this in a few minutes time. I needed a key for a customer's Camaro and it was well under $100 since I brought him the car. VATS delete chip or buy the resistor set for $5 on ebay and figure out which one works so you can order the correct blank with matching resistor. But really - just delete VATS. It's garbage at this point anyway.

GD

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

See post 1, I don't have VATS, that's already gone.

Big&BadGTA

iTrader: (1)

Related to this, is it a good idea to "know" your VATS resistance?

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

I guess for ease of ordering a key.

daferris

iTrader: (8)

Key your VIN into Carfax that will verify it's correct with the right check digit. The 4th digit as I recall is the car line. It should be an "F" the Malibu is a different car line so that digit would be different. You do not have to buy the report it will spit out the info of the year make & model for free. If you have 1 digit wrong it probably will give you suggestions.

My '88 still pulls up correctly
​​​​

pg29

Had my keys stolen for my 88 GTA, which didn't have VATS disabled, so we got a locksmith to figure out the correct keys for door, and ignition. As for vats, we found a list online of the possible resistances, and used a potentiometer (variable resistor) hooked up to the two wires that VATS was looking for the resistance on, (and a multimeter to set the potentiometer to the right resistances), and tuned it to each resistance, and tried starting the car until it finally worked. We permanently soldered in the correct resistor that the car was looking for to defeat VATS, once we found it. Took a couple of hours if I recall correctly, as VATS locks you out for a certain amount of time before you can try the next resistance. There are likely better ways to go about this, but this worked for us.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

You don't have spare keys?

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

I rarely lose keys or my wallet. I am usually extremely **** retentive about that stuff.

I haven’t misplaced my keys in probably 30 years.

I found a lock smith that can cut the keys for a decent price.

jharrison5

I was going to say that any locksmith worth a damn can make you new keys. When I bough my '87 I only got an ignition and no door. Popped out the driver's cylinder and $37 and two hours later I had two working keys.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

I discovered that the 'access' key I thought was the proper key actually wasn't. ( car hasn't been locked in a LONG time !! ) I still have the ' ignition ' key, but I'm still in the same-boat regarding what to do about locks. The ignition key is easy,........ get a new/replacement cylinder with new key. This is what I've done every-time I was missing an ignition key. You can get a rental tool for the steering wheel and the locking plate from most auto stores. ( fast and easy )

The 'access ' locks are a different matter because of the work it takes to swap them out; Stripping the door panels is easy,... but still a PITA and the Firebird Hatch lock is riveted in place........ I considered a locksmith, then realized that I'd be handing him the locks anyway ( not dropping my car off ) so I found brand new door and hatch lock with key for just over $50--------> SOLD !!! Got a brand new finish on them, they will get delivered to my door, and I'll install them some sunny Saturday afternoon. Kinda' sucks that the stowage box lock and hatch-cover lock will not work but maybe that would be a job for a locksmith; don't mind dropping those off to see if he can match them to my new locks !


IIRC the VATS cylinder is different than the non-VATS cylinder ???? ( Longer maybe ?? I could be wrong. ) If you replace your own ignition cylinder -- Even if you don't NEED VATS -- I would buy a year-compatible VATs ignition cylinder just to be sure and avoid problems.

George Klass

Vats cylinder is definitely a touch longer. A regular cylinder won't go into ACC and because its shorter that little "gap" between the cylinder and column is not there. Maybe can work for someone else but didn't for me and my 1989.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Thanx for posting that info George,..... It's been a long time since I've cracked open a VATS column and I wasn't SURE about that !

George Klass

I have a couple of pics on my old phone ill post them up.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

So, I've been pretty lazy about this. A few weeks ago I had the key's cut based on the key codes.

Unfortunately, it looks like the ignition cylinder was changed at some point in the past so the key code doesn't match.

Looking around for a replacement cylinder now it seems none of them come with the GM vats key (rubber coating, logo and all) One of the locksmiths I contacted said sometimes the OEM cylinders have the key code stamped onto the body of the ignition cylinder. Anyone know if there is any truth to that?

Since all of the locks smiths only want to just change the cylinder out entirely, I figure why pay them. If the ignition cylinder has to come out, I'd rather just do the work myself.

Fairly sure I have a steering wheel puller and lock ring remover at home. May rent the tools if I don't have them. And I'm gonna tear the column apart to pull the cylinder out. Maybe I get lucky and the code is stamped on it. In which case, I just take the cylinder with me, have a new OEM vats key cut to fit so it looks authentic.

I just don't want a cylinder with a generic key, it bothers my aesthetics.

George Klass

VATS cylinders come with a key that you make a duplicate of with a VATS key.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Anyone know any way to request a specific key code for the cylinder? Would love to put the same key code back in that the car was built with back then.

George Klass

Not to my knowledge but imo doesn't really matter because it's a single key for ignition anyways.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Well, the column came apart shockingly easily. Too easily. The snap ring that holds the lock plate down was missing. Now I have to source one of those things. Not even sure what size it was. The last people who were in there were the people who aligned the car.

That said, cylinder is now out, and indeed there is a stamped 4 digit code on the body. All of the local locksmiths were closed as of 2pm today. Annoyed.

I figured why not and tried to start the car with a needle nose pliers. Nothing, nada, no battery, no lights, no gauges...etc.

Turns out the battery has zero volts, its internally shorted. So now I have to replace that too.

I put all the tools away, put all the parts in baggies, and locked the car up. I'll deal with it later. Don't feel like looking at the car right now.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Well, the code stamped on the cylinder was a bust, not a key code at all.

So I had to order a new lock cylinder. I had a few choices, but after reading about how some people have issues with the cheapie auto parts stores one I just ordered a Delco cylinder for unfortunately double the price of the no-name locks. Should arrive tomorrow.

The new battery is sitting on my charger right now, fully charged and in float mode. What a pain in the butt having the keys stole has become.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Fixed it for ya.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Sometimes I just want to open a gas line and toss a match into the engine bay.

Got the car all back together. Battery is fully charged, has been on a charger since I bought it from the store.

Nothing but a click from the starter, so I know the solenoid is engaging, I can hear it engaging the flywheel and can watch the lights dim in the car and the volts drop on the gauge cluster.

Part of me wants to blame something with VATS bypass, but Its long since been removed from the car.

• Starter enable relay green/yellow is just wired together. I turn the key, power flows to starter an a single clang of the solenoid hitting the flywheel is heard.
• LT1 PCM has VATS disabled in tune, and the fuel pump relay, spark and injectors are driven directly from the PCM.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Zero volts at the starter power feed terminal. Started probing back along the cable where I could access it around the headers. Roughly between 6 and 12" from the starter's power terminal I finally got 12v.

Spent 2 hours replacing the cable this morning since I don't have to be into work till 10AM today. Car makes vroom vroom noises now and I am happy, yet pissed off. This cable is only a year old, maybe 2.

sonjaab

www.steeringcolumnservices.com has parts/pics/instructions.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Its all figured out now.

While I didn't throw out some VATS bypasss item missing, I was fairly sure it was a power feed issue. And it was.

However, that link does have some parts, parts which in my column are either crappy, worn out, or flat out broken. My horn barely works because the collar that goes under the lock plate is all shoddy. So it might be nice to replace that bit.

Also missing some E-Clips. And the lock plate retaining spring collar is worn out and won't hold under pressure, it usually pops back up shortly after getting the Steering Wheel onto the car.