IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

So want to double check to see if this is correct. Seems correct to me but want some opinions. Battery in trunk to a shutoff first post. Then off other post battery is run to front of car where battery was and a power distrubution block is used to send power to everything that needs it. The main feed off altenator is routed back to the battery top post before the shutoff. So in theory if the switch is put off everything is killed. Altenator cannot feed car as well as battery. Alot of reading has brought up the other 2 wires off the back of altenator. The heavy red goes to that distrubution block in the front. The other smaller wire sits in the fan wiring like stock. Is this correct? Thank you

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Iffin' you pop into the Google, and do a search, the brand "F" boys with the other 80's hatchback that's much more popular in drag racing, well they have miles and miles of threads and all kinds of wiring diagrams and directions for how to wire a shut off so it's NHRA legal, and completely kills the power and prevents the alternator from self energizing, etc. FWIW.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Out of all the threads I read. I only found one that said the way I did it was NHRA correct. Nothing concrete. I would like some first hand info from someone who has a battery shutoff and altenator wires to the battery in the trunk. Alot of time and money to run big wires this way dont want to do it twice. I take Google with a grain of salt.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

With all due respect and not attempting to be a smartazz here ;

If your building something that needs to be NHRA legal , wouldn't the NHRA itself be the one and only place to be sure to get 100% correct info from as to what's NHRA legal or not ? If they have a regulation for an electrical cutoff (and we know they do) wouldn't it stand to reason that they have specific criteria for what meets their requirements for the required device ?

As you say , wire and the time to run it through the car is expensive , I'd only want to do it once , ensuring it meets the specifications of the entity I was trying to remain legal with .....

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

I only mentioned NHRA because if you have a shutoff in any car at the track it has to be correct even if you go only once a year. I dont race a class or anything. Just dont want to be turned away if and when I go. NHRA just gives a description, no wiring diagram. I am looking for anyone that has done battery relocation with a shut off and gone through tech and had or have not had any issues with their wiring or came across anything in that regard. Have you done this? Or have exp with this?No? Then why are you posting here?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Last time I went through tech, they started the car and moved the switch to the off position. If car dies, it passes.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Is your alt main wire tied in to battery before shutoff?

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Yes , in fact I have done it .

And no I wouldn't help someone who posts as arrogantly as you do for all the money ever involved in racing , and certainly not for free .

Good bye

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

See ya!

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

It has to be a certain way or the alt will keep things going.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for that. So the 2 other wires off your alt. They go the same place as stock? Some of the diagrams online, like the Ford guys for example use the hot stud on the starter as a distribution block and tie alt to it as well so that's where I was getting confused. Alot of people dont want to run another wire from alt to battery because of cost I assume. I did a distrubution block . Battery to block where old battery goes, then wire off that to starter. Alt is totally isolated with a run to the rear. Before the shutoff. I assume you run a high amp shutoff? I fused the battery wire to engine compartment as well. Right on the side of battery box with a ANL fuse. Tony at ce turned me on to this. That's where I got the 1/0 wire from. Well thank you for your input , always appreciated.

CKone

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like there are a lot of positives and negatives to this?

Seems like what you’re describing would be sufficient. Like TTOP350 said, start the car, flip the switch, and if it’s still running, it isn’t right.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Lol. You put that into perspective. Thanks for chiming in. I guess what was confusing me was actually all the Ford threads on other forums. They like to use the starter solinoid as a power distribution block. Alt connected to as well. The only downside to the correct NHRA way is the alt wire is always hot. Almost done with wiring. Will post some pics when done for reference.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

ever get this sorted out? any photos ?

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

So I upgraded the Alt to a 1 wire. Its took a few wires out of the system and simplified install. The plug on the factory alt fed back into the system and my thought was even if power was killed at the rear shut off it still could power pump, engine etc. So its eliminated. I upgraded the shutoff which was an original cole Hershey, I think that are all anyway to the bigger Moroso unit. Redid the wiring to it through the sheet metal. I also upgraded all the wiring to 1/0 and got all my stuff from CE auto electrical supply. Fused the feed to the distribution block with 250amp anl fuse and fused the line from the alt back to the battery with a 250 anl fuse as well.



If anyone is curious the wires are covered in Techflex woven F6 with woven heat shrink. So basically feed to the main power distribution

Everything takes power off this. The c100 main power wire gets power off the starter lug which is fed by the distribution block. That in turn feeds the whole car fuse panel. Things taken out of the fuse panel draw are the ecu, injectors, fuel pump and blower motor and ac. So these dont draw out of the fuse panel anymore.Fuel pump, ignition, blower fan and all 12 volt key on sources are off this block. They are fused and relayed all weather packed So if switch is turned off nothing gets power but the 12 volts to the dominator, which is hard wired in with a 8 gauge wire, feed and ground. Alt wire will still be hot but car cannot draw power as nothing is teed off this connection. Alt wire and battery wire is fully covered throughout the car with the F6 woven for abrasion resistance. Inside the engine bay the starter is covered with DEI silicone fire sleeve. The alt wire from the firewall to the alt has 2 coverings. The F6 woven then Hotrod sleeving then capped with a red lug protector. I think I covered all bases in terms of power and grounds. Totally overkill on everything and NHRA legal.