EnglishFirebird

Hi all

I have a 1991 base Firebird, and plan to fit a quite old but perfectly working Cobra Globe 3193 aftermarket alarm I removed from another car I owned.
I also have an aftermarket Nikkai central locking actuator kit but plan A is to leave that in its box.

What I'd love to know is - from anyone who's successfully installed remote locking to trigger their factory power door locks - where is best to connect the alarm's door lock triggers?

The alarm has 6 wires for locking - there are 3 pairs of 'Lock' / 'Unlock'.

From a quick look at the wiring diagram I think I need to just pick one lock/unlock pair and wire them to S213 and S214 on the diagram below, in parallel with the driver and passenger door switches. But can anyone confirm they have done this and it works?





Thanks
Alex

bassxlr8r

To answer the "where to splice" question, your Firebird's factory door locks use a positive triggered relay. The wires from either switch are not isolated, meaning that you can run a lock and unlock wire to driver or passenger kick panels and splice there into 195 (light blue + lock) and 194 (black + unlock) on the service manual diagram. However, the hand drawn Cobra diagram has 5 wires labeled "lock" or "locking", and only one that is labeled "unlock". Without knowing the polarity of the outputs, and if one or more of them is mislabeled, that will be about as far as you can go at that point with the provided diagrams.

What kind of car was the alarm removed from, and which wires were used out of the six central locking wires in that installation? This may help narrow down how to get it configured to work with your Firebird. The other option is to bench test it with the remotes and meter each wire to see if there is either continuity between any of the wires during the arm/disarm commands or if they output a + or - pulse on their own.

Not sure with Cobra, but most brands in the US market either have a - or + output pulse on a single wire, or a similar lock module that has 1 wire each for input polarity of the lock/unlock circuits, 1 wire each to isolate/interrupt if needed, and the last as the output to the lock and unlock motor or switch output wires. If this is the case, you may only need 4 of the 6 to be used in your car, as you are not splicing directly to the motor wires; basically the two input wires would go to a constant battery + circuit, and the other two to the respective lock/unlock wires in either kick panel door harness.

In searching, the Cobra wiring diagrams are not easy to come by. If you have any other documentation or info on the previous install, please post and I'll see if that will shed more light.