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Anyone know of a source to get the 90 degree light sockets, for tail light and such, WITHOUT the pigtails? the PN from GM is 12003759, but that comes with pigtails, which I do not want. I did some searching in the factory parts book, but there isn't a whole lot in there, basically a repair piece or the whole harness.
I could probably pry the wires out of the connections, but I would rather not if I can avoid that. I am looking to make my own NEW lighting harnesses and I do not want to have splices except where necessary, grounds mostly.
There are just some things us mere mortals are not to wire directly. Light sockets and power lock switch sockets come to mind. In defense of the splice, GM loves (I mean LOVES) the splice. Mouser stocks the splice clips GM uses. Crimp, solder, blow your nose on it, and wrap it in black duct tape = better than GM! Ok, so maybe skip the blowing your nose part.
On exterior wires, it's probably overkill, but I'd solder the connections, clean any and all flux residue off the joint with Acetone, apply a touch of Silicone or dielectric grease, slip heat shrink tubing over the joint, and shrink. Water isn't going to get all up in the heat shrink and past the silly cone. Of I guess if you want to get SOOPER-FANCY-DAN you could use the adhesive lined heat shrink.
I would just use a connector set like this
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-crimp-right-weather-pack-connector-crimping-kit.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=CjwKCAiAl7PgBRBWEiwAzFhmmptKsURy7AdHhVzLeYLHHzXo1Z-jfmbXdxqB--HCmg6_NEPiy_riIhoCLjsQAvD_BwE
keeping the pigtails in place. This would allow for socket changes in the future if a socket is damaged or you decide to upgrade to some kind of LED in the future.
Mouser stocks the splice clips GM uses. Crimp, solder, blow your nose on it, and wrap it in black duct tape = better than GM! Ok, so maybe skip the blowing your nose part.
On exterior wires, it's probably overkill, but I'd solder the connections, clean any and all flux residue off the joint with Acetone, apply a touch of Silicone or dielectric grease, slip heat shrink tubing over the joint, and shrink. Water isn't going to get all up in the heat shrink and past the silly cone. Of I guess if you want to get SOOPER-FANCY-DAN you could use the adhesive lined heat shrink.
I still prefer not to splice, regardless, but It seems I may have to. What is the PN for the splice clips? I haven't seen them before. I only buy the adhesive lined shrink tube now
Originally Posted by DEADWOLF
I would just use a connector set like this https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-cr...hoCLjsQAvD_BwE
keeping the pigtails in place. This would allow for socket changes in the future if a socket is damaged or you decide to upgrade to some kind of LED in the future.
Thanks for the idea, I hadn't considered doing that. I think I may buy the Deutsche connectors, they are a lot smaller than the weatherpack you listed.
I can't find a part number for the splices in my notes, but I'm sure if you dig around on Mouser you'll find em. Just a C shaped tinned piece with a hole in the side, stuff all the wires into the C, crimp, then solder. I'm sure you've see splices in GM's wiring. Just peel back the duct tape and there they are.
But hey, I did come across this section I forgot about. Granted they aren't the exact ones used on Thirdgens, but maybe you can find something in there that would work for you.
Weatherpacks are old school. Try looking at the Micro-Pack series. Should be able to find something that'd work, and would be less bulky.
I think this is the Delphi Connection Systems Catalog PDF I'm using... If it seems incomplete Google DCS Global Catalog and download a few of them. Delphi/Aptiv's website is completely worthless.
Thanks, that catalog was helpful. I have some of the other series, but not that one. Looks like there are some sockets I can order that should work for the tail lights. Just have to compare the bayonet bases to what is actually in the housings
12-08-2018, 09:46 AM
