No Electricals Anymore
#1
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Car: 1987 Chevy Camaro & 2001 VW GTI VR6
Engine: LT1 5.7
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
No Electricals Anymore
I've been working on my 89 Camaro RS for a while, and i've never run into a problem like this. Aside from ALL of my lights, NOTHING else electrical works anymore.
In the past, i've fixed everything from a clogged cat (removed the cat, now straightpiped), to the oil pan gasket and starter. I didn't even remove the engine for the oil pan gasket either, just jacked it up a few inches, and no leaks.
Anyway, recently, two days after my oil pan gasket project, I left with the car running perfectly. Then, the car just quits. Dies on me right in the middle of the highway, so I assume another ICM (Ignition Control Module) has blown. I was right. So I install another one, but this time it starts up with a miss, now mind you, I have only done one tune up with this car, and I did it one spark plug at a time as to not cross wires. On my way home, the solenoid on the starter blows, taking the VATS system with it. I tightened the bolts on the solenoid WAY too tight. I just replace the starter completely, bypass the VATS with resistors and it still starts with a miss.
So a few days later I wrap up the full tune up with a Cap & Rotor, align the wires to the correct plug and go home. It runs the best it's ever ran for the next two days. I park in a target parking lot, turn it off. Turn it back on for safe measure. An hour later I come outside to turn it on and nothing. Absolutely nothing was getting power. The gauges weren't even turning on and the radio wasn't either, alongside the radiator fan. (They all come on in the ACC position.) Even when the VATS system wasn't reading my key from a broken wire, the car still gave power to everything, the coolant gauge will usually bounce from 0 to max when I start the car, but now it doesn't even do that. the only gauge working is the Fuel gauge, and it's stuck at a quarter.
At this point, I've checked all the fuses, wires, grounds, changed the Ignition Switch from BWD & the Ignition Cylinder to fix the blown wires that go to the VATS system, I don't want to bypass anything anymore, I want to do this right, so I'm getting my new key chipped later on. I'm at a total loss at what to do, and i'm ready to hand it over to a mechanic. I just want to tinker around with it some more before I go giving it to someone else.
ANY advice will do. Thank you.
EDIT: Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING that gets electricity from the battery is no longer getting electricity other than every light in the car. I turn the key on, Nothing. Ignitor wire on the starter, Nothing.
I'm at a loss, and I have no idea what to do.
In the past, i've fixed everything from a clogged cat (removed the cat, now straightpiped), to the oil pan gasket and starter. I didn't even remove the engine for the oil pan gasket either, just jacked it up a few inches, and no leaks.
Anyway, recently, two days after my oil pan gasket project, I left with the car running perfectly. Then, the car just quits. Dies on me right in the middle of the highway, so I assume another ICM (Ignition Control Module) has blown. I was right. So I install another one, but this time it starts up with a miss, now mind you, I have only done one tune up with this car, and I did it one spark plug at a time as to not cross wires. On my way home, the solenoid on the starter blows, taking the VATS system with it. I tightened the bolts on the solenoid WAY too tight. I just replace the starter completely, bypass the VATS with resistors and it still starts with a miss.
So a few days later I wrap up the full tune up with a Cap & Rotor, align the wires to the correct plug and go home. It runs the best it's ever ran for the next two days. I park in a target parking lot, turn it off. Turn it back on for safe measure. An hour later I come outside to turn it on and nothing. Absolutely nothing was getting power. The gauges weren't even turning on and the radio wasn't either, alongside the radiator fan. (They all come on in the ACC position.) Even when the VATS system wasn't reading my key from a broken wire, the car still gave power to everything, the coolant gauge will usually bounce from 0 to max when I start the car, but now it doesn't even do that. the only gauge working is the Fuel gauge, and it's stuck at a quarter.
At this point, I've checked all the fuses, wires, grounds, changed the Ignition Switch from BWD & the Ignition Cylinder to fix the blown wires that go to the VATS system, I don't want to bypass anything anymore, I want to do this right, so I'm getting my new key chipped later on. I'm at a total loss at what to do, and i'm ready to hand it over to a mechanic. I just want to tinker around with it some more before I go giving it to someone else.
ANY advice will do. Thank you.
EDIT: Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING that gets electricity from the battery is no longer getting electricity other than every light in the car. I turn the key on, Nothing. Ignitor wire on the starter, Nothing.
I'm at a loss, and I have no idea what to do.
Last edited by tognabologna87; 02-15-2016 at 10:33 PM.
#2
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Car: 88 IROC Z/28-under re-construction
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port
Transmission: It's in there....
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt Borg-Warner
Re: No Electricals Anymore
You removed the starter.. check the fusible links power. Check for melted shorts near the exhaust. I bet its around that area
#3
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Car: 1987 Chevy Camaro & 2001 VW GTI VR6
Engine: LT1 5.7
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: No Electricals Anymore
like i said, the radio, radiator fan, and gauges are supposed to come alive when the key is switched on, every single time. They are no longer doing this. The rear hatch motor has no power, along with the a/c blower motor. The only electricals working in the car are every single light bulb known to man. Fusible links don't cut out power from the key, do they?
#4
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Car: 88 convertible
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 4+3 maual
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: No Electricals Anymore
AustinThirdgen.org has all the wiring diagrams you need. Check them out, especially the body wiring diagrams (#2) shows all the starter wiring, alternator and junction blocks and fusible links along with the fuse block. Start testing and if you have specific questions, ask. HTH!
#5
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: No Electricals Anymore
Fusible links don't cut out power from the key, do they?
There are some very small number, like 2 or 3 depending on the car. Each one is in the feed to some very large portion of the remainder of the electrical system. Sorta like the main breaker in your house, except there's a couple of them.
That's what your problem is: the one that feeds power to the ignition switch, along with a few other things, is dead; but the one(s) that feed other things like the headlight switch, is(are) still good.
They are at the starter.
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