sparkplug619

Just bought a new camaro, stepped away from tge camaro life for a few years but missed it too much.
Anyway its a 1990 RS manual.

Problem: My car has an electrical fan controlled by a toggle switch, came with the car. I am still learning the car, so i accidentally forgot to turn the fan off, it stayed on for a few hours, draining my battery.

No big deal, buddy gave me a jump, i pulled the jumper cables off and my car died after about a minute. Jumped it again, tried to get it home, died on the corner while running. Jumped it again, made it home.

Ran to autozone, grabbed a battery and alternator, threw them in, drove it around for a bit and all was well.

Took it out last night and notice my voltimeter was getting lower and lower, turned around and headed for home, car dies, friend gives me a jump. On the way to my house, stereo cuts out, then headlights, then interior lights.. bead battery.

Question: after ruling out alternator and battery, what is the next step in repairing my charging system?

Also, i installed head unit, amp, and sub. I used a metra for the HU, so i know the wiring is on point, however, i disconnected the sub amd amp and it is still unable to charge

Ransford2987

You have to have a connection issue between the alternator and the battery. Are you sure that's hooked up correctly? Are all the grounds made properly? I'd get a voltmeter and start testing each point that should have ~14V with the car running. The output of the alternator to ground should be about 14V and just go towards the battery from there. Also, you can test voltages with the car off. Check things that should be off for voltage with the car off. There's no way of knowing exactly what your issue is based on the issue provided...not your fault, just the way these things go. Get a voltmeter if you don't have one. It's a must.

sparkplug619

I have a voltmeter, so im pretty much testing each ground point to the alternator, then each ground point to the battery, then the connection from alternator to battery? Everything will be 14v with the car running. Can the car ve running with jumper cables? Or only off of its own power?

Ransford2987

The car has to be running on its own. Otherwise you would only be measuring the batter from the car that's jumping yours. Charge the battery and then get it to run, even if for a short time. You just need to test where your lose the 14 volts.

You should also be testing each positive leg of wiring you can find. While it's running on its own, check the alternator to ground then battery to ground. If those don't read the same voltage, you have a connection issue between them. If they are the same, I would look into what is drawing amperage from the battery when it isn't being charged.

sparkplug619

Thank you i will post results as soon as the battery is charged up enough

sparkplug619

So i noticed the clip connected to the clip that connects to my alternator is broken and doesnt lock in, i just popped my hood and realized it was no longer plugged in, im guessing due to vibration of the engine it popped out. Also noticed i am missing a bolt where the metal bar connects from the alternator to the exhaust manifold.. possible ground point obstruction?

sparkplug619

Another thing, the voltmeter on my dash, which is more than likely broken like my tach, is reading about 18v, close to the red.

And i am also missing the bolt in the picture below. Any idea on what size it could be for replacement?

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

When you have a chance, crawl underneath the car and look at the starter. With the battery disconnected loosen the nut holding the big fat battery wire on the starter along with the other two wires. Give them a good cleaning with a wire brush. This is the factories version of a junction block. **** pour IMO, but what the he!!, its 80's GM wiring. I had a similar issue that had me stumped for about a week.

Stauf

iTrader: (2)

There should be a fusable link on the wire that runs from the alt to the bat. It is possible that the link went bad under the insulation.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Yea that very well could have happened. Actually I lost power to my 12+v. constant feed to the alternator and it screwed me. So yea that area by the starter is like the greatest problem area on these cars in terms of electrical woes.

sparkplug619

I am gonna get under there and clean that up after work tomorrow.

As for the fusible link, any chance of safely bypassing it? Cut it out solder new wire and heatshrink it? Or just get some thick bulk wire and bring this 24 year old wiring from the battery to alternator up to code?

Stauf

iTrader: (2)

If it is bad, go pick up fusable link wire and solder back in. You dont want to eliminate the link.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking fuse for my pain in the a$$. Fortunately it turned out that the wire just fell out of the age old connector. My fix was simple, hopefully yours is too. I started a thread in the electrical section as you did and I suspected everything from the battery to the alternator. As you did.when you have a sec go outside and with the battery plugged in check for 12v constant key off at the big fat red wire on the black alternator connector. If it's not reading that then you know you have a definite problem down there. Not sure if you did this already or not. My FSM was really shady about this.

*for me it read 10 volts and it let me drive 30 miles-- go figure.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

The easiest way to check voltage is to get an Innova digital voltage gauge that plugs into your cigarette lighter. Might more precise than trying to see what's going on with the volt meter on the dash. Cost is about $10-15.

Another thing to remember is that the battery wires are 25 years old. You can clean the acid off the ends that plug into the battery. But what about what's inside the line that you can't see? As more heat builds up, the resistance goes up. As resistance goes up, it charges less. So then it runs the alternator harder to charge it. Since the battery charges less, it wears out faster. A never ending cycle.

I never had issues with batteries or alternators during mild spring/fall weather when I lived up north. But I'd go through one of each a year when driving in the hot summers in TX. I wound up going with a set of "Innovative Wiring" battery cable sets and no problems ever since. I highly recommend them.

http://innovativewiring.com/

The pics below are for our Blazer. But the set I bought for the GTA are similar (just different lengths and fusible link)

sparkplug619

Since fixing the broken connector problem i previously stated, my cars been charging fine the only concern i am having now is the voltmeter on the dash reading above 18v. I still havent tested the actual voltage of the vehicle due to work and a side of lazy.

Beside the gauge this problem has been solve. Thank you to everyone that shated input on the matter, not only did it help solve my problem, but it also gave me a few tips i would like to try out