Dash lights will not work
03-03-2013, 08:41 AM
#1
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Car: 87 formula 305 bought new
Dash lights will not work
Need help with the gauge lights on my 87 formula. The head and taillights work, I've checked and replaced the fuse and tried four different headlight switch's still nothing. Also when I turn the lights on the display on the radio goes out. Can anyone help me on this one?
03-04-2013, 11:47 AM
#2
03-05-2013, 06:27 PM
#3
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Dash 4 Cash
If you have the Analogue dash make sure the dash dimmer control is set at the bright position, then using a voltmeter or test light (the type for testing for voltage, not a continuity tester) probe both sides of the INST LPS fuse.
If there is no power there check for power on the orange wire at the headlight switch.
Then check for power on the dark green wire at the headlight switch.
Is there power on both wires?
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If you have the digital dash it could be the dimmer wheel but first do some measurements.
Using a voltmeter or test light (the type for testing for voltage, not a continuity tester) probe the dark green wire with the WHITE stripe going to the dimmer wheel.
When you rotate the wheel back and forth — what happens on the meter or test light?
Then probe the brown wire.
When you rotate the wheel back and forth — what happens on the meter or test light?
Then probe the probe the plain dark green wire.
When you rotate the wheel back and forth — what happens on the meter or test light?
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Make Noise, Turn Left, Repeat
If there is no power there check for power on the orange wire at the headlight switch.
Then check for power on the dark green wire at the headlight switch.
Is there power on both wires?
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
If you have the digital dash it could be the dimmer wheel but first do some measurements.
Using a voltmeter or test light (the type for testing for voltage, not a continuity tester) probe the dark green wire with the WHITE stripe going to the dimmer wheel.
When you rotate the wheel back and forth — what happens on the meter or test light?
Then probe the brown wire.
When you rotate the wheel back and forth — what happens on the meter or test light?
Then probe the probe the plain dark green wire.
When you rotate the wheel back and forth — what happens on the meter or test light?
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Make Noise, Turn Left, Repeat
03-07-2013, 04:38 PM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Dash 4 Cash
From your response it sounds like the PO changed something due to the fact you replaced the Headlight Switch but still have no power on the green wire.
Do you have any power on terminal 2 at the Headlight Switch when the dash dimmer control is set at the bright position, and the so called “parking” lights are on.
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Make Noise, Turn Left, Repeat
Do you have any power on terminal 2 at the Headlight Switch when the dash dimmer control is set at the bright position, and the so called “parking” lights are on.
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Make Noise, Turn Left, Repeat
03-07-2013, 07:19 PM
#6
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Car: 87 formula 305 bought new
Re: Dash lights will not work
Maybe I need to slow down and fully read the post. I tested the terminals without the light switch installed. Sooo I went back and plugged the switch in and rechecked everything. Still no power on either side of the fuse but I have power on the green and orange wires.
03-11-2013, 04:28 PM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Dash 4 Cash
Since you have power on the green wire, but not on the INST LPS fuse, you have a broken connection from the Headlight Switch connector to the fuse block.
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If You’re Passed By Your Own Tire On The Track, It’s Time For A Pit Stop
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If You’re Passed By Your Own Tire On The Track, It’s Time For A Pit Stop
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03-19-2013, 08:36 PM
#8
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Car: 87 formula 305 bought new
Re: Dash lights will not work
Thanks Nina, you were dead on. Ran a new wire and now I've got gauge lights. Now for gremlin # two. Hatch pull down quit working so I sent the pull down motor to Hawks third gen to be rebuilt. They said my motor could not be rebuilt so they pulled a core and rebuilt it and sent it to me. Put it in the car and it does not work. Called them and they swore it worked when it left there shop. Is there anything I can check to see if it's the motor or possibly another bad wire?
03-20-2013, 05:15 PM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Hatch Patch
To test the motor have the unit out of the car and connect 12 volts thru a 15 amp fuse.
Negative to the black wire, positive to the red wire with a White stripe.
If the motor runs you know it’s good.
But if it doesn’t run connect the positive to the black wire with a White stripe.
If the motor runs you know it’s good.
If the motor did not run in any of the above tests return it.
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I Didn’t Jump The Start, The Flagman Was Late
Negative to the black wire, positive to the red wire with a White stripe.
If the motor runs you know it’s good.
But if it doesn’t run connect the positive to the black wire with a White stripe.
If the motor runs you know it’s good.
If the motor did not run in any of the above tests return it.
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Happy Racing!
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I Didn’t Jump The Start, The Flagman Was Late
03-27-2013, 07:58 PM
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Car: 87 formula 305 bought new
Re: Dash lights will not work
Pulled the motor out and put it on the bench, hooked 12 volts to the red and white wire and ground to the black ground wire. Every time I touched the 12 volt to the red and white wire the motor would click as if it were trying to work. After about the 8th or 9th try the motor moved about a 1/4 of an inch and that was it, now it does nothing. I do not see a black wire with a white stripe. None of the wiring has been tampered with, this car is ridiculously stock.
03-29-2013, 05:17 PM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
The Flip Side
Is there a 14 AWG black wire in the car at the hatch area (not counting the ground wire)?
If yes, reconnect the fused 12 volts from the bench to the
red wire with a White stripe.
Then negative to the ground wire on the unit.
Now use a pencil, to simulate the metal latch bar on the lid, and push down on the striker (if the striker is in the up position).
If the unit is good it will pull down on the pencil.
However if the striker is already in the down position, in the Pull-Down Unit there is a reversing switch that causes it to come up that you can access thru the opening where the latch is with a screwdriver or the pencil.
Sometimes that switch needs to be flipped.
The reversing switch is about a half inch more towards the rear of the car than the latch is.
I forget if you need to flip it up or down but it will be obvious because it when it’s in one position it can only move in the other.
After you flip that the striker will go up if the unit is good.
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Happy Racing!
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I Didn’t Jump The Start, The Flagman Was Late
If yes, reconnect the fused 12 volts from the bench to the
red wire with a White stripe.
Then negative to the ground wire on the unit.
Now use a pencil, to simulate the metal latch bar on the lid, and push down on the striker (if the striker is in the up position).
If the unit is good it will pull down on the pencil.
However if the striker is already in the down position, in the Pull-Down Unit there is a reversing switch that causes it to come up that you can access thru the opening where the latch is with a screwdriver or the pencil.
Sometimes that switch needs to be flipped.
The reversing switch is about a half inch more towards the rear of the car than the latch is.
I forget if you need to flip it up or down but it will be obvious because it when it’s in one position it can only move in the other.
After you flip that the striker will go up if the unit is good.
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Happy Racing!
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I Didn’t Jump The Start, The Flagman Was Late
04-02-2013, 07:31 PM
#13
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Car: 87 formula 305 bought new
Re: Dash lights will not work
Reconnected everything on the bench and used the pencil technique and stillnothing. I tried it about 8 to 10 more times and noticed a barely audible whinefrom the motor, so I stuck the pencil in again and just held it there for a fewseconds and low and behold it started moving. It was sporadic at first, butafter doing it over and over it got more consistent so it was time to put it inthe car. Once in the car it worked, it needs a little help coming up and goingdown but it works. Any idea's on why I have to manually help it up and down.
04-03-2013, 04:46 PM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Re: Hatch Patch
Obviously you shouldn’t have to help it.
The motor seems to be weak.
You should tell HawksThirdgenParts.com about the weak operation, and it should be under warrantee.
Tell them you had a voltmeter on it so you know it’s not the battery.
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Happy Racing!
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He Must Have Been Be Cheating - Because I Was And He Almost Beat Me.
The motor seems to be weak.
You should tell HawksThirdgenParts.com about the weak operation, and it should be under warrantee.
Tell them you had a voltmeter on it so you know it’s not the battery.
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Happy Racing!
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He Must Have Been Be Cheating - Because I Was And He Almost Beat Me.
04-03-2013, 07:46 PM
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Car: 87 formula 305 bought new
Re: Dash lights will not work
Thanks Nina, you have been a tremendous help. I'm in Raleigh, maybe I'll see at the track there in Mooresville when the cars done. Been there a few times, nice track.
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