Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

Sorry for this post, i know its been covered hundreds of thousands of times, ive been reading on how to install a hatch popper for a few days now, ive searched this topic for hours.

Lets begin with my problem,

i bought a hatch pull down unit from Ted and it works beautifully, it even had the popper solinoid already mounted, my car originally did not have the popper or switch, i plugged it all up and found my car already has the solinoid wire(which i found out all 86-90 are pre wired) thats when i decided i wanted to utilize that popper, i pluged in the black wire to the solinoid, and took my upper console off to find where the switch connector was hiding,

I found it(i think) but i can not find where the relay plugs in. I have searched every inch of my console and can not find a connector anywhere, even up under the radio where some diagrams say it can be found.

Is there anybody who has installed a popper and relay that can point me to where theirs was found or where mine could be hiding?

I took some pictures but am on my phone so i will upload them when i get home

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

first off i take it that connector in the first pic is the switch connector?
the second pic is the window and what i think the popper switch is together




those two pics are showing the best i could get up in my console, the second pic has a glare at the bottom(i don't allow smoking in the car lol)

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

well after a whole day of searching for the relay connector i gave in and just hard wired the switch connector to my switch, here is my results,

i bought a 2 pack of momentary switches from Radio shack($3)
wiring and connectors i already had

the only cutting/massaging i had to do was enlarge the hole under the console lid(you will see in the pic where i am talking about) i had to grind it out just a tiny bit to fit the switch, other than that, no cutting my harness or anything just added an extension from the power wire to the switch and from the switch back to the black wire at the connector, and it works perfect(i even accidentally found out that if you jump the power to the middle wire at the connector you can start your car lol, but i think that has been covered on here) this is what it looks like now

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Can you make up a quick wiring diagram for me where your wires from your popper switch run to?

I have a factory hatch pull down motor but it stopped functioning after I rewired the entire car.
This is the only thing that is hanging me up.
all the wiring diagrams I have are not clear on the wires to your hatch popper button.
It is only a two wire correct?

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

the popper switch(the one you push to pop the hatch) is a three wire connection, its in the first and second pictures i posted, the wire at the popper is a single black wire

my switch that i used is a two wire switch, i just ran the power wire from the connector to the switch and the black wire from the connector to the other side of the switch, when i press the switch power runs through the black wire back to the popper and pops the hatch, i gave up on trying to find the relay wiring and just wired it direct, ill try to get a pic of my wiring as well to show that i never made any cuts in it

if that wasn't what you were talking about let me know

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

so the black wires carries the power from the switch back to the hatch motor assembly? is the wire black back there as well?
I just basically need to know what wire carries the 12 volts to the hatch assembly from the switch on the console so I can wire it in as necessary.

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

correct the black wire at the switch carries the 12V signal to the hatch popper, and it is black back there as well

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

i just got my hatch popper working today youll probebly be as suprised as i was when i discovered that the hatch popper is actually spliced into the starter wire!!!
took me a long time to find that out

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

the relay for mine is right near the ecm.. . i think thats the one but i cant be sure since i cant find my flashlight... the wires for mine are orange black and brown commin from the relay. the black one goes to the trunk, the orange one goes to the fuse the brown one goes to the switch. and the tan and white one that also comes from the switch splices into the tan and white wire from the gear selector switch and the tan and white(some are a big green wire) one from the starter enable relay. witch is behind the driver side kick panel

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

i will be checking to see if i have an empty connector by my ECM tomorrow! lol thats what i needed to hear

and yea, i found out if you take your hatch popper switch out and touch the power wire to the middle wire you will start your car, but i just jump the power to the black and it pops my hatch

but i will see if i can find that connector for the relay i bought, if i can find it by the ECM then i will get a real hatch release switch and do it the right way

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

ya i just looked under my dash in the light and there is a relay under by the ecm. she is snugged in there pretty good. im gonna go out there and pull it to see if it is the one .. ill let ya know in a munute

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

yep thats the one.... the connector is black with an orange wire brown wire and black wire.... mine also has another connector under there next to that one, it is white with three wires, that isnt the one. the connector on mine comes right out of the wiring harnes that heads towards the driver side good luck

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

alright thanks alot time to mess with the RS

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

well no luck, i found a black connector tucked up in the dash above the console, but it was a two wire connection, and there was a gray or white connector right next to my ecm that was a three wire connector, but i could not find the black 3 wire connector,

i am surprised that every time i find an empty connector that there is still the wire tape holding it to the harness, lol kinda cool to see a 22 year old car still have the untouched wiring all still intact

i guess i will just make do with the switch i have wired in now, heres a pic for you all to see my switch wiring(its not pretty because its hot as hell outside but when it gets cooler i will redo it the right way with proper connectors and such, im usually very **** about my wiring)

the black wire plugs into the black wire at the connector, and the Red wire goes to the power wire at the connector, i left the middle connector wire alone and everything works fine

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

well atleast you have a popper. the wiring in mine is probebly difrent then yours. the best way to find out where yours is would be to register at alldata. they have all the diagrams and locations of everything you could need for your year

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

that looks pretty good. nothin wrong with runnin your own stuff . i do alot of that with mine

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

i rewired a lot of stuff in my car. if you dont like electrical tape, like i dont. they . have the cool wire connectors you can get in difrent sizes ill send you a pic of them . i love them they make everything much easier

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

lol, that was a quick shotty job i did just to get the button working, i hate working inside my car when the interior degree is around 120+, i burn myself on every metal piece in my car or the black surfaces get so hot i cant work until it gets later in the evening lol, i would like to see what connectors you are talking about, ive used tons, they even have liquid electrical tape at Harbor freight ive been wanting to try lol

but yea its probably a little different on the wiring because you may have the Late 91 style hatch pull down and popper, idk if its wired the same, but all the schematics i look at say it should be in the large part of the console towards the front of the car, the only thing left for me to do is remove the entire lower console so i can stick my head up under where the harness is to get a good look lol

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

still tryin to get this to work

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

you take the pic away? my email has a link but it goes nowhere lol

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

you just strip a quarter of an inch of the wire and shove it through the end cap then screw it tight....how simple is that. this way you need no tape cause the stripped part of the wire is in the end cap

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

i have to go to my myspace acount to take a picture that i can copy onto this message. i dont know why but it wont let me do it from my desktop

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

i have these things all over my car. they work great for wires you may want to make longer and have a place to disconnect them etc. and they can handle any volts or amps my car can put out and they look alot better then tape. shrink wrap and soldering is fine and all but takes a while. this takes only seconds

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

getting at my wires for the starter on my car is a pain with the headers..and the dam wires arent long enough to put them on before i install the starter. so.....with these handy little guys i can disconect the starter wires from up top of the motor and just drop the starter right out . when i first got these i was skeptical.. but now i never have enough of em

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

[quote=CaveCock;4499642]well no luck, i found a black connector tucked up in the dash above the console, but it was a two wire connection, and there was a gray or white connector right next to my ecm that was a three wire connector, but i could not find the black 3 wire connector,

i am surprised that every time i find an empty connector that there is still the wire tape holding it to the harness, lol kinda cool to see a 22 year old car still have the untouched wiring all still intact

i guess i will just make do with the switch i have wired in now, heres a pic for you all to see my switch wiring(its not pretty because its hot as hell outside but when it gets cooler i will redo it the right way with proper connectors and such, im usually very **** about my wiring)

ya i am the same way, ive been goin through the car rewiring everything, been workin on just that for a week now. i converted to carb. so there was a lot to do. pretty much got it for now. just gotta get more of that plastic wire cover stuff ( whatever its called) to hide all the stuff

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys I took this photo of what I found under my center console, maybe I can get some help as to where the circled wires go? I labeled all the colors and the switch that goes to my hatch popping switch on my center console..

the three wires that leave that connector I circled, they do not match any colors at my hatch motor in the back..

so confused what I need to do here to make my switch work again..

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

Thats in ur 89 iroc? I dont think mine has any of those wires but i can check again when i work on the rs today

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Yes that is correct, my 89 iroc.
on the left, two wires go to my switch, on the right the three wires go to a relay.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Ok I figured it out myself today..

the orange wire ran all the way to my fuse panel and is constant 12volt.

the black wire runs back to the hatch and pops the hatch..

the yellow wire turns into a green(white stripe) at the connector as poster #1 posted up.. and it also ran to the fuse panel.. I understood the diagram as 12volt as well but that didnt make sense.. so I grounded it, and everything works as intended..

only thing is its not wired through my shifter, so I can pop it at any time, in gear or not..

not a big deal for me as im the only one driving and im not dumb enough to pop it on the highway..

and for anyone that cares, there is a red(with white stripe) at the fuse panel that is also supposed to be 12volt constant and that is power for the hatch pull down motor to do its thing when triggered..

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

sorry man didnt check this post in a few days glad ya got it though

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

Im also glad you got everything figured out and working