The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Hows it going? I just got my car back on the streets, and I'm having yet another @#$&@%& issue with my GTA . Heres the scoop: I'm running an optima red top battery in my car at the moment and it was cranking and starting like a champ until the I noticed just last week that it was taking more cranks to fire it up. A couple of days ago I tried starting it again; it was cranking but not starting and I noticed the gauge in the car read 2 lines below the '13' so I thought immediately low battery. Instead of recharging the battery at autozone, a buddy of mine let me use his home rapid charger so I used that and charged it for about 1-2 hours. In the meantime, I used my brother's battery from his truck and the cranking was back to normal. Last night my brother and I were gonna head out to subway so I decided to put my fully charged optima back in. The hood was still open and when he cranked the car to fire it up, the positive terminal let out a good spark as well as the engine didn't crank at all just a click-clack. I then thought I might of overcharged the battery and damaged it and was just not working properly anymore. Today I headed over to autozone to have it checked and it showed it was good and holding a charge. Heres the weird part, I put the battery from my brother's truck back into my car again and I'm getting the same click-clack sound and no crank. It almost sounds like the alternator but I doubt it since its pretty new as well as it cranked just fine with my brother's battery hooked up right before I decided to switch it out for my fully charged optima. A neighbor mentioned it might be the starter solenoid click-clacking like that but its fairly new and upgraded as well. Can any one help me with this? I'd really appreciate the info.

Thanks,
Phoenix

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Problem solved. It turns out that the battery charger is a P.O.S. and wasn't charging my optima properly. My buddy let me use his battery and it fired right up. My brother's battery is also low in power and since his '74 blazer doesn't have as many electrical components as mine, his truck fires right up. My GTA on the other hand does have alot of electrical components to power therefore the engine wouldn't even bother turning with that little bit of voltage. I just took my optima to autozone to get it recharged. Thank god this wasn't something major. I was almost going to purchase another battery.

Take it easy,
Phoenix

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Ok problem not solved . I just picked up my battery from autozone and installed it in the car. As I flipped key to "on" my check engine which stays on btw dims out as well as the seatbelt warning (red) light. The security light comes on very dim and all I hear is the click-clack sound coming from my engine bay along with no turn over. I had my friend give me a jump to see if that would do the trick but nothing... same situation. BTW the ground wire which runs from the negative battery cable and bolts to the metal by the battery was getting pretty hot; some insulation is missing and I'll be replacing it soon with a new wire. I'm clueless as to what it could be I mean it was running just fine yesterday until in the evening when I put in the optima which had a bit of juice from the p.o.s. home charger my freind let me use. I tried using my brother's energizer battery again and got the same click-clacking result; it was cranking it just fine too before I switched out the battery and his is fully charged. Could it be a fusible link? or possibly my rebuilt engine locked up ?? I appreciate any info given guys.

Thanks,
Phoenix

hitmann91

ok, so it is one of 2 problems
1) easy: you have a bad starter
2) not so simple: hahaha i dont mean to laugh, but if it is not your starter then you have the same problem that i have for over a year. 90% of the time the car works perfectly, but due to some twisted act of satan the car randomly decides it doesnt feel like starting, but within 10-15 mins it will start again without fail. If this is the case You are the first other person i have ever seen to have the same problem as me, so i apologize for the feeling of sick vindication now have. Unfortunately i do not have an excact answer for you because i have yet to figure out my own car. But i can offer some help. I would say that it is almost definitely either a loose connection or a corroded wire...somewhere. I think this because, i got a remote starter system put in my car after i started having the problem, and now the car starts every time when i use it(if i use the key it still reserves the right to choose when to start). The only difference in the 2 ways to start is is that there is a section of wire that the key-start section uses that the remote does not(i never tried to fix it because i only use the remote start anyway).
To fix it, i would replace all of the wireing going from your ignition to your starter, and see if that fixes it. testiing the sections of wire wont do anything unless you can test them at a time when your car isnt cranking.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

seriously man someone probably put a curse on me or something. As I mentioned earlier it has a rebuilt L98 and a replacement '89 GTA harness I purchased from a member of these boards. I also put in a mean green mini starter which would turn the motor really fast. It is very possible though that it has gone bad already bieng 2 years old. Replacing the wires sounds like it will fix it for sure. I'm also in the process of purchasing a new positive battery cable since mine is really old and corroded. Hopefully I'll find out whats going on within the next few days. Thanks for the info bro. I'll keep you posted.

Later,
Phoenix

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

I can't believe this, if it isn't one thing its another! I had my friend help me look at the car today and we came up with nothing. Its almost as if the engine can't turn for some reason . I jacked up the car and had my friend crank the engine while I was under the car observing the starter. What I saw was that the starter was engaging just fine with the fly wheel but it barely even twitched not turning at all. We tried manually rotating the engine as well at the flywheel and at the crank but it just wouldn't turn; my brother's truck on the other hand did spin. My friend said that my car might have more compression than my brother's blazer therefore we couldn't spin it at all but it was just a thought. Another possibility was the oil pump but it turned out just fine as well. Its looking more like a mechanical issue instead of electrical but luckily the engine rebuild is still under warranty so I contacted the owner of the shop who did my rebuild today and explained to him what is going on. I arranged to have my car picked up taken to his shop for inspection tomorrow morning to see what the problem is. I'll keep you guys posted.

Later,
Phoenix

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

I got a call from the shop owner yesterday morning and was told that the car has an "electrical problem" with the oil pressure switch staying on even after the car is turned off (which I know about btw). I was told that because of this, the combustion chambers had gotten overflooded with raw gas that night causing an excessive amount of compression meaning no crank at the engine. The shop owner told me I that they're going to have to clean the chambers manually. I've never heard about this happening to anyone else or has it . The simple fix to this is a new OPS since apparently the one they installed during my rebuild is deffective. I already have a new one btw but I'm going to first see if they give me any at the shop. Hopefully not since as I mentioned earlier, its still under warranty. I'll post my results.

Later,
Phoenix

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

Gasoline flooding an engine to the point that the chambers are filled up? That would mean that the gasoline can freely flow through the closed injectors, past the closed intake valves into the chambers and not leak by the rings into the oil pan. Sounds like another mechanic fairy tale. But hey, there's first time for everything.
Easy to check: if you take the intake boot off, the intake would reek of gasoline.

The FPOP (Fuel Pump Oil Pressure) switch can be easily unplugged. You don't even need it on your engine if the F/P relay works fine. It's just a backup system. So until you can put a new one in, you can leave it unplugged.

Lou

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

yeah seriously I've never heard of this happening before, I could possibly be the very first case . I'm leaning towards it bieng nothing but probably because they *&#$%@ up on something and don't want to tell me but who knows . All I know is that I'm not paying a single penny for the repairs bieng done at the moment. Hey I didn't know you could run the car with out the FPOPS and thanks for the tip on the intake boot Lou. I should be getting the car back this week. I'll keep you posted.

Phoenix

kkingsrulee

What you are referring to is not satan randomly deciding to make your car not start, but it is the chemical reaction in your battery "coming to life" after you wait a few minutes after your failed attempt at starting it.

The onomonopoetic "click clack" is your starter solenoid receiving enough power to have the solenoid click the starter gear into place but lacking the power necessary to power the motor of the gear (starter)

As for the "Gasoline flooding the cylinders" that sounds like BS to me, though it's condisidered a vacuum inside the cylinders the gasoline can still evaporate (when you flood your engine you wait a bit for the gasoline to evaporate)

They're just trying to get the labor hours of taking apart your engine.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Yeah get this: the mechanic told me that the chambers were so flooded the gas went passed the intake valves due to the pressure and that if I was to some how get the car to start, I was to expect a big BOOM . They're still narrowing it down to 'some electrical problem' with the car but before I go explaining to them about the FPOPS, I'm going to first see if they're smart enough to narrow it down to the switch. As for the labor hours: 2 yr. warranty = not paying for anything lol. i'll keep you guys posted.

Later,
Phoenix

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Today I payed the shop a visit and to my surprise, my car was going through open heart surgery once again . The shop owner let me know that the raw fuel that had overflooded the chambers mixed in with the oil as well. Is this even possible . They're going to basically just clean all the internal parts, reinstall them, reinstall the engine back in the car and give it an oil flush afterwards. This guy (shop owner) has a quite an imagination huh . Keep you posted.

Later,
Phoenix

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

I might be wrong but it sounds to me like he's lying to cover something up. You don't take an engine apart just because it had a little gas in the combustion chambers. That's actually what it's designed to do!
He might have screwed up last time and now is rebuilding the engine to fix his previous mistake. Or he forgot some tools inside last time, wouldn't be a first!

Lou

kkingsrulee

Well there's always is oil on the cylinder wall, the oil control rings on the piston are designed to leave a thin layer of oil between the rings themselves and the cylinder wall to "ride on". But there should be no surplus of oil here unless there is a leak somewhere.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

I agree. A buddy of mine let me know that all that was needed was an engine flush and problem solved, except for the stupid switch thats deffective lol. I don't think I'll be getting my car back this week either since they like to about when you're going to get your car back; which sux cuz I really want to drive it . I can't wait to hear his explanation on what the cause was for the gasoline flowing continously but like you said, he probably made a mistake on my last rebuild and is repairing it........(free of charge ).

Right. I didn't know that man thanks for the info. Yeah if there was a leak then it's definately the shop's fault, but it would kinda be hard to believe since its rebuilt... it can still happen though. I'll let you guys know whats going on.

Later,
Phoenix

the gtaman

same problem here ,mine started after changing the heads on my car. starter wire gets really hot. today i moved the negative cable to strut mounting bolt, starter wire no longer gets hot ,but ground at back of engine does.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Does your engine turn?

the gtaman

yep ,ground wire get real hot! i guess it's the body ground runs from the back of the head to the frame. if i take it loose the car will just click .

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

it does sound like a grounding issue. Another possibility could be the starter getting heat soaked. Having aftermarket headers causes this. Been there done that . As for my car, I'll probably pay another visit to the shop tomorrow since its my day off to see where they're that.

Later,
Phoenix

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

I went to the shop again today and bad news (as if it couldn't get any worse ). It appears I have a bent piston rod. How? I was told by the shop owner that fluid can't be compressed and since the chambers where filled all the way with gas, one of the pistons tried compressing but that wasn't going to happen since the gas was there causing the rod to bend instead. Going into further detail (as the shop owner did with me), he told me that my starter which is a performance unit actually caused the rod to bend as well as grind some teeth off of the flywheel due to the "stuck" engine. If I was to have the stock starter, this wouldn't of happened . I explained the purpose of the FPOPS to them as well as let them know I have a new original unit and heres what they came up with: my fuel pump is hardwired some how that its staying on and that I'd have to haul it out of there on a lift to an auto electric shop for repairs... wtf umm no! Before I got my engine rebuild, my f/p was shutting off just fine; ever since they rebuilt it and put in the new switch, its been acting up so its definately they're fault...did I mention the a****** still wants to charge me . In my first post, I mentioned I could possibly be the first case kidding around about flooding the chambers but it could actually be true. Apparently, there was gas in the chambers as well as the oil. One of the mechanics showed me one of the spark plugs which reeked of gas as well as the oil dipstick had gasoline on the tip. How could this of happened? Just a thought but remember how I mentioned in my first post that the car was cranking just fine with my brother's battery right before I dropped in my optima battery? well the fuel pump was running continously due to the faulty FPOPS switch and I think that while my brother was cranking it, the injectors started to spray gas flowing through the intake valves into the combustion chambers causing the overflooding condition. Don't the intake and exhaust valves open and close as your cranking the engine also? If so, that might explain how when I did put in my optima battery, the chambers we're too flooded to even move when I cranked it. Ok thats that (sorry for the long essay)... heres the funny part about the bent rod situation: the owner was telling me this in his shop by my car with the engine still in it. How he knows that I have a bent rod I have no idea unless he has x-ray vision and can see through it but I doubt it. The fact that there was gas present in the engine led me no choice but to sign the form and leave the car for further repairs and yes I might have to pay additional charges. I know I messed up in doing so but I'm going back again tomorrow along with a friend whos helped me my with the car to settle this with the "mechanic". Theres a possibility we'll get into an arguement but after thinking long and hard about my experience at the shop today, I'm going back for sure. I'll keep you guys posted and again, sorry for the long post.

Later,
Phoenix

Nub383

You have to have an injector stuck open in addition to a continuously running fuel pump to drown the motor like that. A starter bending a rod? Idk that must be some starter!

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

I think the owner realized he f***ed up something on your engine and (without taking it apart) now blames you for bending a rod and destroying your flexplate.
Standard practice, just ask any shop owner. When there is shortage of work, find a sucker who will believe a fairy-tale and take him for a ride.
As for the flexplate, I'd ask them to show you. A starter doesn't normally strip the teeth on the flexplate. You would have heard it.
I still don't believe the gasoline drowning. As was pointed out many times before, you'd have to have a bad injector or a few stuck open (very rare).

Good luck dealing with them and maybe it's time to consult a lawyer (and let the shop know).

Lou

kkingsrulee

Yes, your valves are opening and closing, as you are turning the engine via the starter the flexplate/flywheel (according to whether your car is auto or manual) and that in turn spins the crank which is connected with the timing chain to the camshaft, which opens and closes the valves.

Your mechanic is correct also by saying that fluid cannot be compressed (this is the way hydraulic fluid systems work).

This whole situation just sounds like a fluke, if you will. It just sounds ridiculous.

Sorry to hear about it, hopefully they will pay for it, it will be a huge bill if you somehow get stuck with it, even without the repaired connecting rod included.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

I had to leave town unexpectedly today so couldn't pay them a visit. I will for sure go tomorrow thanks to the responses I just read . My buddy even says that thats not enough force to bend a rod. To let me know how strong these rods are, he told me a story about when he blew his 350 and had one shoot through the top of his engine through the hood . As far as the gasoline goes, it was definately there and I agree with you that it just sounds too rediculous too be true. Could there be any other to causes to this? Oh yeah the thought of having to pay for the repair of a rebuilt engine with less than 1000 miles just makes me . I really appreciate the motivating respones guys seriousy! I'll keep you posted.

Phoenix

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Well just got back from the shop today and s*** did my blood boil! I get there and the shop owner meets me outside. The first thing I tell him is "hey so whats the deal with the warranty, isn't it still still active" he tells me yes but since the engine has been tampered with (only replaced the engine harness), I still have to pay for the repair. The conversation actually did get heated because he kept contradictig me on the fact that its not the FPOPS. He pretty much explained to me again how (not why)the chambers got flooded . Once he did that, I then asked "ok, so what would be the main cause for the f/p staying on. His response was "theres an electrical problem somewhere" thats when things got a little serious and I shook my head at him and said "nope", its not that at all its the switch" he then asks me which switch? Thats when I pulled the new unit out of my pocket and handed it to him. He just looked at it and said "whats this, let me go check with the mechanic". He comes back out a while later and begins to explain to me its purpose (as if I didn't know already) and then tells me "yeah thats what the switch is for but your f/p is still staying on so its an electical issue". I then told him with confidence "I'm 100% sure its the switch". I could already see the look of anger in his face (which I didn't give a @#$@ about) and he tells me "well ok I'll have the switch checked out on your car to see if its deffective". Heres what I want to do: I've heard of a couple of auto electric shops in my area (referred by members of this site) which know alot about the electronics on f-bodies. I want to take one of those guys to the shop and have him check out the switch there. If it is bad then the shop owner will most likely will want to replace it there but because of the fact that he lied to me and tried playing me for a sucker, I'm going to just take my car out of there no ifs ands of buts I mean why would I let him continue to touch my car after all the hes put me through. Then theres always the possibility of it not bieng bad as well but the evidence is there that it is bad: this wasn't happening at all with my old switch (before rebuild), when the car is off but pump still running (bad switch) if you unplug the connector to it it turns off, the f/p relay is brand new. If there is any other causes please let me know. As for the car, he can't work on it until next week since he has other cars to attend but like I said, there might be a possibility I'll have to take it out of there. Referring to the bent rod, I went to another shop explained the situation and was told that it is very possible to bend a rod (shop owner showed me one). He told me that while the flywheel is spinning and the rod on its exhaust stroke, if the starter slips and then catches a 2nd time, that impact will be enough the bend it true or false??. I'll keep you guys posted.

Phoenix

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Why did your positive terminal spark? Was the cable not properly connected? When an engine is flooded, standard procedure is to disconnect the ignition system, remove the spark plugs, and crank it over some more. MAKE SURE YOU DISABLE THE IGNITION OR YOUR CAR WILL BURN TO THE GROUND.

Now, I, along with most others can't possibly fathom how your cylinders became filled with gasoline. What happened the day that you had the spark and no more crank? You talk about your brother flooding the engine, but you didn't mention that at all in the first post. If the engine was running with the truck battery, then you put in the optima, had a "good" spark and then had no more cranking. I'd be questioning what got fried in the spark.

P.S. Sounds like this guy is trying to fleece you. This is why I do all of my own repair work. :/

kkingsrulee

Wait wait, I thought the problem with the bent rod was that the cylinders were filled with gasoline, and since liquid is not compressible that might make some sense as to how it could bend a connecting rod.


But the flywheel spinning with the piston on the exhaust stroke and the starter catching, in turn bending the rod?

NO, bs man, I don't see how that's possible, no way man, the starter just doesn't have enough power to do that, maybe if there was something inhibiting the movement of the piston, but if it's moving freely then there is just too little resistance, and the starter doesn't place enough stress on the rod to do that.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

I have no clue as to why it sparked . I'll try to explain the situation more in detail: My optima battery was low in charge so I swapped in my bro's for the the time bieng. I borrowed my friend's home charger to charge up the optima for about 2-3 hours. I got that done and the night of cinco de mayo (no lie ) I decided to go out for a bite to eat in my GTA until I got this @!#$ upon start up. The recharged optima was in installed, all terminals secure. I gave my brother the signal to crank it, he does, and thats when I saw the spark fly out at the + terminal standing directly in front of the car. Yeah sorry about the flooding thing, I was sure I put that in my first post. I'm 100% sure hes suckering me too no doubt about it.


Yeah I was told that by another shop that I went to today were I happened to see another white GTA sitting outside a couple of weeks back. The shop owner told me that its very possible to bend a rod like that and he's seen it done. Hey it could happen but it might just be another shop.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Whatever sparked might be what caused your problem. As for the bent con rod, that will only happen if the cylinder gets filled with liquid with the engine running, like while fording a stream, or maybe some sort of catastrophic engine failure.

Hmm. Was running fine on the truck battery, then it just went click-click, then you swapped to the optima and had a spark. Did anyone other than you mess with the car in-between the last time you turned over the engine and when it wouldn't start?

Nub383

If you are sure that you are going to have to pay for the repairs, take your car elsewhere. I wouldn't take it to the shop where the owner said he has seen a starter turn over and hydrolock a motor either. I would tell the new mechanic (whomever you chose) that this vehicle may be part of a lawsuit so all parts need to be kept. I would consult a lawyer.

Another question: Did that mechanic actually disassemble your motor and look at the rod? If I were going to tell someone they had a bent rod and charge them to rebuild, I would at least SHOW them the rod. Did he take it apart and say "Looky here, a bent rod" and put it all back together?

kkingsrulee

Yes, Nub is right, the mechanic should have showed you the rod, did he?


Ask to see it, I highly doubt he took the whole motor apart.

Is he going to charge you for the "disassembly/diagnosis" if the motor? If so you should seek legal advice and second and third opinions on your car first, maybe you can have them come look at the car wherever it's stored because it's too expensive (unless you've got a premium AAA plan) to tow your car from shop to shop.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Absolutely not bro. Simply put, it was running like a champ; did burn-outs like nothing. At first I began to think my fusible links were shot or my starter fried but that wasn't the case. I noticed when I would try to crank the engine (stuck), my 'SES' light would come on somewhat dim as well as
the 'security' light appearing even dimmer. Right now I'm just .


No... can you believe it ? Explaining to me how I have a bent rod while the engine is still in the car; its crazy because I didn't realize that until I left the shop and thats what got me thinking....SCAM.

Yeah he told me he'll let me know when the engine and rod is out of the car so he can show me (next week) . This guy pretty much is sticking with the story about it bieng an electrical problem and not the FPOPS. Looks like its gotta come out of there. I'll keep you posted.

Later,
Phoenix

Nub383

Yeah but this sounds like the kind of guy that might have a bent rod lying around his shop to show you. If it were me, I would watch him take it apart or take it somewhere else. If he isn't going to honor the warranty, why would he have any sort of integrity at all?

Nub383

This is why I do my own work, build my own motors, roof my own house, etc.. Dirtbags taking advantage of people. It makes me sick. He might be a legitimate mechanic and telling the truth so help him God, but I just can't understand why people take advantage of others.

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

Amen to that.

If I had a nickle for every time an a**hole dirtbag ripped somebody off, I'd be a trillionaire now! And imagine the steady income I'd have, even moreso nowadays. Ka-ching-ching-ching-ching-ching.

Yeah, a**holes like that make me sick. Doing your own work feels good. Doing your own work and KNOWING it's done right feels even better. Doing your own work and NOT having to mortgage your house to pay for it even though it was screwed up, feels the best.

I take pride in my work and if I let anybody touch it, they'd screw it up (been there, done that, never again).
When my friends see my work and say that it looks "professional", I take offense because my work is better than professional. And they get to understand it.


Sorry, back to the engine problem.
As has been suggested, I'd pull the car out of there ASAP, before they disintegrate it into pieces and you can't get it out. From what the "mechanic" said, he sounds like a crook trying to take advange of you.

Lou

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Cranking without starting can mean quite a few things; lack of fuel, too much fuel, lack of injector pulse, no spark, or incorrect ignition timing. Also, all alternator's will read below what is normal until the engine is running. If the volt gauge is reading that low while the engine is running, it's either a bad battery putting strain on the alternator, or a bad alternator, or a loose connection somewhere in the charging system. Mind you, a loose connection will drain power within minutes, and you'll wind up with the "tick tick" condition....

.... you have something hooked up in the charging system wrong.

A fully charged battery w/out the alternator even connected will start and run the engine, but only up until a certain point before it is drained. In retrospect, you can also run the engine with just the alternator by disconnecting the battery after it is started. That is the best way to tell if you have a bad battery, or a bad alternator. With the engine running, disconnect the battery, and look over towards the volt gauge, if the volts check out okay, your alternator is fine. However, when you go to reconnect the battery again (with the engine still running), and you feel a drain in power (you'll feel it, the engine will act differently), thats a bad battery. If the engine stays the same when you reconnect the battery with the engine running, then the battery is good....

It doesn't matter if it is new or not, as you might have gotten one from a bad batch, or possibly damaged something initially due to an improper hookup. It sounds like the starter is either jammed, or an electrical connection is bad somewhere. If that mechanic has you concerned about a rod, just pull the spark plugs out and turn the engine over by hand. If you can't, use a ratchet and socket on the bolt by the crank snout. If the engine turns over freely, with no noise, it's fine....

saadin

i have used that shop once before. actually recently too, within 4 months, they did the heads to my old motorhome, they did a good job on them, but they are known to try and screw people who get their engines worked on. take your car out and stay clear. i was told to only use them for heads and not to let them touch the rest of my engine ( i took off my heads and took them to them seperately ). they did try to tell me that the problem was not in my heads and recomended i bring them the engine, i told them that if it was not the heads then give me them back and i wouldnt need any more assistance from them. i had a call about an hour later saying they found the problem. the whole warrante thing is bs, if anything pull it out of there just because of that. as electric shops go, i am looking for a decent one myself, so i will tell you if i find a reputable one. hope this helps a little bit.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

I've done my share of installing parts myself, the most 'difficult' was installing my starter. Damn gravity doesn't help at all . Theres nothing like knowing you've repaired or installed a part on your own car with your own hands and right!

Yeah thats exactly what I'm going to do tomorrow. I'm going to go and have them install the switch right then and there in front of me to prove it it is deffective and that its what caused my combustion chambers to overflood (if its actually true). I'm still puzzled about the fact that there was gas on the oil dipstick and spark plugs but bieng that I've gotten may responses saying this overflooding thing can't happen or is rare, I'm leaning towards that .

Before the car went into the shop (again), my freind and I tried turning it manually via the crank which didn't budge at all, next was via the fly wheel and nothing. Do you think that *gulp* my engine is seized up?

Yeah I'll definately do that man. They're supposed to start working on it Tuesday but I'm going tomorrow before they begin to perform surgery on it. Yeah it definately sounds like they gave you too it just makes me mad to think about how many people they scam or try to scam. Let me know about that electric shop man if you find one, I'd appreciate it. I'll keep you posted.

Phoenix

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

They might have dumped gas in your oil. It only takes a little, and you can put it in the fill hole....

If this is the kind of shop that would have a bent rod on hand to show you, then they'd definitely dump gas in your oil to support their "story."

Engines are HARD to turn over by hand. Pull the plugs and everything gets easier. 9.5:1 compression is fun to overcome. Phoenix, I'm going home for a week, but if you still have this problem, PM me a phone number and I'll drive over to your place. An extra set of eyes can help with all kinds of problems.

saadin

how did it go? did you pull it out today?

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Heres my final plan and why: Yesterday my brother and I stopped by at the shop and out of nowhere the owner lets me know that an auto electrian had gone there to perform a total diagnostics check for any 'electrical' problems (he was looking away as he was telling me this ). Anyway he said that he was going to get a print-out of the total diagnostics check from the electrician for any electrical problems my car has within the next couple of days. I'm going one last time to the shop this coming Thursday since he likes to take his sweet a%^ time too, I'm sure he won't have touched it by then so it will be outta there even if I have to haul it. After thats done, I planned on taking it to the Pontiac dealership to have them run a total diagnostics check ($103) and have them prove this a^&*!&@ wrong. An extra set of eyes would help out alot. If you can I'll bro I'll have it hauled to my place so you can look at it and that way I can also get a second opinion. Taking it the the dealership would actually be a third and sure opinion . I really appreciate the help man. I'll PM you my phone # if antything. Thanks.


No, the reason bieng that I'm going to wait one last time until Thursday for the results on what eletrical problems my car has. He just won't change his story and always says "its not the motor, its an electrical issue". I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks for the information,
Phoenix

saadin

alright man, keep me updated.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Will do. Tomorrow is the big day and I'll keep you posted.

Later,
Phoenix

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

I thought I'd let my fellow thirdgenners know that I'm getting my GTA tomorrow. Yup it took all this time (4 months) for that p.o.s. mechanic to re-rebuild my engine, obtain the correct harness for my car which he had gotten 2 wrong sets btw, have a couple of resistors repaired as well as reprogram my ECU as he put it. It turns out my car has an engine block from an actual '87 corvette (so I was told but I'll find out for myself) therefore he had to order a 3rd set of wires using the engine casting number. I know for a fact that even '87 vette L98s had that 9th cold start injector until I asked the shop owner a couple of weeks back if the car would still have 8 injectors or 9. His response was "8" so that confuses be a bit or its just plain . Thats the other reason as to why my car's ECU got 'reprogrammed' as well due to the vette block. Anyway I still have to pay for the additional 'repairs' done to it which is in the 4-digit range again . I did consult a lawyer as well a couple of months back and was told I'm s.o.l. since I already had signed the repair form and that opening a case all regarding this matter was going to cost me big $$$$ which I don't have so I'm going to hand over the remaining balance tomorrow and get my GTA outta there. All in all I did learn from this situation and I sure as hell will never ever take my car to someone who thinks they know about thirdgens until I make sure they know enough. I'll let you guys know about my findings on the block itself.

Later,
Phoenix

kkingsrulee

Sorry about that man, just a bad situation/experience all together.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Yeah it sucks! The guy even had the nerve to tell me not to mod the engine any further (mild mods) since its fast enough already, not for me though . I'm happy to have the car back and damn does it feel good to drive it. The thing fishtails without holding the brakes. I guess you can call it a bittersweet end to the story huh . Take it easy guys.

L8r,
Phoenix