Alternator Resistance wire?
12-25-2007, 02:29 AM
#1
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 carbed now
Transmission: World Class T5
Axle/Gears: Peg Leg w/ 3.73's
Alternator Resistance wire?
I have been having problems with my alternator not holding a strong enough charge. It bounces back and forth from 11-13 volts but never really holds a good strong charge. I did a search to make sure my wiring is right and I saw alot guys saying that a resistance wire helps hold charge. I went to the parts store to see if could get a resistance wire and no one had a clue. Is it a special type of wire or is there something I am missing here? Thanks guys and merry christmas.
12-26-2007, 08:38 AM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
NOW FOR THE PIECE OF RESISTANCE
Alternators don’t hold charges, batteries do.
Some alt circuits require resistance in the field line.
However if you car was operating properly previously
your alt is wired correctly intermittence not withstanding.
You stated it bounces from 11 to 13.
That is consistent with a bad connection,
or an intermittently functioning alt.
Go over your connections from the alt to the bat.
If they are OK replace your alt.
.
Happy Racing !
|__|==(_)==|__|
— If people drove any slower
they’d be going backwards —
.
12-26-2007, 10:17 AM
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
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Re: NOW FOR THE PIECE OF RESISTANCE
Thanks for the info. I will try it. Just for ***** and giggles where I can I get this resistance wire?
12-26-2007, 12:32 PM
#4
Re: Alternator Resistance wire?
Some years had a resister in the wiring harness for the alternator to charge properly. If you dont know what you are doing, you are going to burn out your alternator.
Check the plug connection on the back of the alternator to see if its full of crud or dark brown from being burnt out.
You may have a faulty regulator thats switching on and off, or your gauge may be off.
I noticed that when my alternators fail, they have a black sooty residue on the back where the metal fins are (heatsink).
You can get it tested at most auto parts stores, with it still in the car. Watch the amps, it should be putting out a good amount at idle and 2000rpm. If its putting out 2-4 amps instead of 20-40amps you probably have an alternator thats going out. Notice the scale of difference, the alternator will be putting out some very SMALL amount compared to what it is capable of.
Check the plug connection on the back of the alternator to see if its full of crud or dark brown from being burnt out.
You may have a faulty regulator thats switching on and off, or your gauge may be off.
I noticed that when my alternators fail, they have a black sooty residue on the back where the metal fins are (heatsink).
You can get it tested at most auto parts stores, with it still in the car. Watch the amps, it should be putting out a good amount at idle and 2000rpm. If its putting out 2-4 amps instead of 20-40amps you probably have an alternator thats going out. Notice the scale of difference, the alternator will be putting out some very SMALL amount compared to what it is capable of.
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