TABBOO

I have 2 questions. My 87 305 tpi Transam won't start. I just pulled all the ijectors & had them cleaned & flow tested. I put it back together & no start. I was having starting problems before. The car would start fine cold & I would drive about 20 minutes to a local car show & look around about 45 minutes & get in & it would crank but not start. After it sat a while more it would start right up. I have taken the dist. an accel out & put back in AC Delco (had it checked checked OK). I have an orange looking spark in the spark tester tool I have hooked up to #1 plug. I also replaced the dist. cap an Acell with an MSD.
My 1st questionis could I have gotten the wires on wrong? I know I have the firing order right , but could I have started on the wrong post. I have attached an inage of a dist. cap & wonder if anyone can tell me which post is #1 plug?
I also wonder what the spark control module on the firewall by the relays & brake booster does & how can I test it? Parts stores can't test that they say.

fire350tpi

18436572

#1 is the first one after the slot for the screwdriver to tighten down the bolt ( the one pointing towards the engine not the firewall)

Hope this helps..

Also sounds like a ICM problem.. after they warm up they like to fail

TABBOO

What is the ICM. Is that an Ignition contol module? Where is it located? Is that the first post past the screw towards the passenger or drivers side as you are looking at the engine? I think you are close to solving my problem!! Would the ICM stop the car from starting at all even cold if it finally failed? I appreciate the help greatly, if you can clear these few questions up for me I might be able to get this thing going!!! If you are saying the ICM is the module in the dist. I just replaced it. I had an Accel (JUNK) didn't last anytime at all. I put the old AC Delco back in & had it tested before install passed. The Accel failed the test. Maybe you are calling the spark control on the firewall icm?

hitman0187

did you ever solve this problem?

Corky

What you are describing is a classic Ignition Module Failure. Heats up fails, cools off engine runs. The problem with testing it is you take it to the Auto Parts store to test & it cools off - it tests good. You put it in the car & it fails. If your '87 has an HEI distributor, Remove the dist cap & the ign module is the black thing bolted to the base of the dist. It has 2 wires plugged into it from the pick up coil.

First, ensure you put the plug wires back on the dist cap properly. You could have very easily screwed up the firing order if you didn't pay strict attention to the wire positions. If you want to check for the position of #1 on the dist cap, go back to basics. Remove the spark plug from #1 cylinder, Place your finger (thumb) over the spark plug hole & have a buddy just bump the engine over until you feel the piston compression force your thumb out of the hole. When you are sure #1 is up on its compression stroke, look at the rotor in the dist - it will be pointing to #1 wire. Wire your distrib cap from there according to your firing order. Good idea to remove power from the distributor during this excercise.
If you can confused post back, we'll help get this resolved.
Corky

TABBOO

Thanks to everyone who offered help. It was a combo of the ICM being bad & the hall effect coil in the distributor also failing. I think the bad ICM gave me the earlier problem when hot, but the pickup coil gave me the won't start problem later. The car wouldn't even fire with starting fluid. It seems the ignition wasn't firing at the correct time (probably on exhaust stroke).
I replaced the ICM (Accel) with the original Ac Delco unit & the pick up coil with a new Ac Delco unit.
My advice to anyone from now on is to stay away from Accel. I believe the failure of the Accel ICM caused the other failures. My car now runs great.
The having the injectors cleaned & flow tested seems to also have improved performance. Thanks again everyone.
P.S. I had the firing order correct the whole time. I was very careful not to mess up but had some doubts when the car wouldn't run.

hitman0187

if they were all that easy. i always wondered about that test at the auto parts store. you also basing it on the book jockey behind the counter to hook it up correctly.

1987-iroc-z383

how did you replace the pick-up coil on your hei remote coil system....?? I am having a difficult time getting at it.

1987-iroc-z383

How did you remove the pick-up coil in the distributor...? I am having a difficult time getting to it.

Corky

You have to remove the distributor, drive out the spring lock pin holding the gear on the shaft & slide the rotor shaft out of the distributor. Now you can remove the pick up coil.
Corky

1987-iroc-z383

How do you go about removing the driveshaft? Prying?

Corky

First, mark the location of the rotor on the firewall before removing the distributor. Remove the distributor hold-down bolt and bracket. Twist dist back and forth while pulling up - may need to pry up a little to break it loose. Put dist on a work bench & support the gear end with a block of wood & drive out the spring lock pin at the base. Slide off the drive gear and you may have to give the rotor shaft a few taps with a dead blow or plastic headed hammer to get it to move. Work the rotor shaft all the way up and out of dist. Now you will be able to change the pick-up coil. Reassemble - lube shaft before assembly & be sure to replace O-Ring seal around the dist (it will leak if not replaced). Line up rotor with mark on firewall - will have to move rotor ahead or behind mark - shaft will turn as it meshes with gear on cam. Once mark is aligned reassemble all dist hardware and wires.
Corky