superbm2day

Ok im not sure if this is the right forum but i couldnt find another that fitted the problem. I recently started restoring an 88 TA. IT's in fair condition for the most part, Just minor nagging things. I only recently obtained the key from the dealer for the door and trunk locks. So this was the first time opening the trunk. I removed the spoiler and when i tried to close the trunk again it will not close all the way. IM wondering if this has to do with the pull down motor. IF it is is there anyway to close it with out hte motor? Hope someone can help me. Thanks!

IROC86CAM

Try reaching down in and gently and slowly pull the unit up. You should hear it run when you do this. When you open the hatch do so slowly so the motor comes up with it. It always works with mine.

Muirner

Depends if it is burnt out or just dead, if it is dead, then shut the trun hopefully it grabbs, it might not pull it down but it'll keep it latched.

Muirner

superbm2day

It does latch. When I turn the key on I can hear it run but, it will not pull the hatch down.

FireChicken2.8

iTrader: (1)

hey mine did the same thing. most likely what it is, and what it was for me was the little nylon gear inside gets stripped out. its a really cheap fix, and really easy to do you just get the part from TDS (look above) and the motor comes apart pretty easily and when you assemble it make sure to use some white lithium grease on both the tracks and the gear itself. this should solve that problem. hope this helps. here's the link, its a $7 part.
TDS-Gear Nut For 82-92 F-body hatch pull down motor

superbm2day

Ill try the nylon thing. But it doesnt seem, like its workin, how do i tell if its burned out or not. Someone saaid to to pull it and it will run, but i cant get it to budge.

FireChicken2.8

iTrader: (1)

umm sorry man, i wish I could tell you how, but I am not sure personally, I am sure SOMEONE on here can tell you. they just need to stumble upon the thread.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

First thing to check is if you have +12v at the red with white stripe wire that plugs into the blue wire on the hatch pull-down motor. Next try fiddling with the small black switch that is just in front of the latch as you are facing the hatch pull-down unit from the rear of the car. You can try gently poking it with a screwdriver. If that gets it to return to the up position, then the problem is a bad striker-sensing switch. GM discontinued the switch last year. The switch is available on my web site asl TDS p/n 207180 Striker Sensing Switch, 1988-91 hatch pull-down unit.

Lon Salgren

FireChicken2.8

iTrader: (1)

i know that that switch lonsal is talking about has gotten switched to the wrong position on mine and it wouldn't work until I flipped it back. so just mess with it and see if it works.

superbm2day

thanks firechicken and lonsal. Upon close inspection ive notice, the rails dont have the nylon liners in them at all. I iknow you can get them. But befor eI do im just gonna need to get me a mulitmeter and check whether or not the thing is good to go before i mess with it or not. It may be worth it to just get a reconditioned one off TDS. I have no clue why they couldnt have just made it a simple setup, instead of having to get fancy with the power pulldown. Thanks for the help though.

FireChicken2.8

iTrader: (1)

no problem, the reason they went with the power pulldown is because people would slam the hatch to get it to latch and it would crack or shatter the window, and its not fun to replace a $300 window. but they had so many problems with them that they just did away with them in the 4th generation.