Vader

O.K. - I believe I've searched enough sites and threads, so I'm not be totally lazy - maybe just ignorant, but where the F@#$ can I find *.ecu mask files for $32 PROMS?

I've downloaded enough samples and programs to keep the drive light illuminated pretty much full time on the old PC, and I still can't seem to find what I need to properly open .bins from these MAF ECMs. Should I just bite the bullet and use TunerCat, or can I be "cheap" and find the appropriate file somewhere? Or do I need to write my own? Any advice is welcome, as long as it isn't too personal. (I already know where I can go, and have specific directions...)

leirch

I haven't been able to find a $32 .ecu file either. You could run the 6E .ecu file and then do away with the cold start injector(or leave it unplugged). Or, what I would do is just bite the bullet and purchase TunerCat, you'll find that the software is well worth the 80+ dollars(tuner+tdf file of your choice). Once you use the program you will be kicking yourself for not getting it sooner.

Brendan

Grumpy

Too often folks forget to tell you about bearing to the right at the fork in th road LOL

Why in the world would you want to dink with a 32 or 32A Mask?.
The 6E is a much more refined set of code. Much
If your working with a auto grab a ARAP bin and dig in after readin the archives.

Personally I use Tunercat or GMEPro. It's just not worth my time to play around with the .ecu stuff. If the Winbin Emulator shows up them I will be until then it's just not cost effective to work it all out.

Grim Reaper

Add my vote to "switch to $6E" and disable the Cold Start Injector.

A few people have found that when they convert to the $6E from $32 (or $32B) that they have to play with the "Injector Cranking PW" a bit. Usually increasing the multiplier a little does the trick.

(You don't know how hard it is to keep from giving a smartass answer to your question based on the title. It took a lot of will power).

Warlock

I just put 32Bv001.ecu in the incoming folder at DIY-EFI.
ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/incoming/

Vader

Warlock,

Thanks for loading up the file, but I already had that one. With that mask I get 100° spark advance at 3200 RPM, fan turn-on temp of 307.49°, adn a bunch of other anomalous stuff.

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Glenn,

Thanks for the "vote of confidence". I'll bet you're still biting your tongue.

Oh, go ahead - let it fly. I've finally got a good goalie behind me this season so give it your best shot. There's a really good chance of getting some new "hardware" for the shelf in a month or so. Not bad for a bunch of "old farts" skating against 20-some year old kids. So let it fly - I'm getting used to it.

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Grumpy,

The road map is beginning to get much clearer now...thanks.

I've already got the ARAP .bin and the $6E mask (along with about every other .bin I could find). I've looked at the parameters and I'm sure they'll work for me. I'm running a MAF on one of the projects, so VE tables aren't an issue there. I'm thinking I can manipulate in some better LV8 tables and let the O² handle the rest at part throttle. If I get either lucky or good with that, I'm going to start on the S/D TBI car. Since I'm probably going with TBIX2 on my truck conversion, I'll want a little experience.

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leirch,

I am probably going to end up with a different .bin file on the MAF car, but I wanted to have a good handle on the parameters as they exist now (in the OEM .bin in the AUM8993). It's always nice to have a good base line to work from. I have a hard time justifying the puchase of several .tdf files that I'll likely never use in real applications just so I can look at what the factory did as a base line. I know twenty bucks is not a big deal for a "tool", but I know that it's going to be useless to me eventually.


Thanks to all for the replies.