GTA

Hi,

well i have finally decided to purchase a wb for myself. Please forgive this "simple " question. How easy is it to tune with one? I have been messing around with BLM's and such and i am getting tired of it. Is there a program that i can use with TP/RT to nail down the AF ratio and call this tuneing thing done. Dont get me wrong it was a great learning exp but i am really fussy about this car and tune and want it spot on. If any WB tuners could respond with actual results it would be greatly appreciated, thanks all GTA

RBob

iTrader: (1)

For use of a NB and BLM values there are a couple of programs that will do VE for you. IIRC, VE-Phd and VEMaster? A Google may find them.

WOT with a WB can be done by hand. As it mostly affects a small area of the VE table. Even with the EBL Flash & WUD I rough in the WOT with a WB and hand made changes. Then let the VE Learn polish it off.

RBob.

GTA

So purchasing a WB would not make this quest for a near perfect 128/128 a whole lot easier? I had a look at those programs that you mentioned but they look to be specific to data master and such. I have Diacom. Is there a program that would work with diacom? thanks GTA

Grim Reaper

That is correct BUT 128/128 is only desirable when you only have a NB to tune. WB is best for tuning your P/E (when you are in basically in open loop) and/or when you want to run in open-loop all the time (eg. when you have a raunchy cam and the NB sensor becomes useless in certain rpm ranges due to false readings caused by the valve overlap).

But, when it comes to tuning your P/E, it is the best way. With a Real-Time Tuner, it is also relatively easy too. I with RBob's suggestion, use it for P/E and then let the part-tables "take care of themselves" unless you notice tuning issues with closed loop in part-throttle. Then you have no choice but to tune fully in open loop.

GTA

Grim,

Thank you for the reply, I look forward to "nailing down" the WOT and PE in my car., sounds simple enough. On another note my BLM's are almost perfect up to 100km or so. My question is "if" the BLM's are not maxed out to either 160 or 108 ( not in PE ) then i should be safe and assume that the ecm can compensate and take care of the AF ratio. Am i correct in this thinking? Thanks GTA...

1tpi

[QUOTE=GTA;3929240]Grim,

My question is "if" the BLM's are not maxed out to either 160 or 108 ( not in PE ) then i should be safe and assume that the ecm can compensate and take care of the AF ratio. Am i correct in this thinking?

I would like to know also

Grim Reaper

Not in WOT and especially if it's rich (which 108 is). The ecm does add some fuel if it detects a lean condition; but it only helps correct, it doesn't alter to give an optimum tune. And, if the ECM detects a rich condition, the ECM does NOTHING. The engine continues to run pig rich.

Forget 128/128, especially in WOT. Strive for a FLAT 12.8:1 with the WB. Then go to a dyno and find the OPTIMAL AF Ratio for power (each car is a little different as is the sensor). Generally somewhere between 12.6-13.0 is the optimal AF ratio for MAX POWER. Then tune for that AF ratio with the WB at over the widest rpm range possible.

And remember, as you adjust your spark advance, it alters the AF ratio. And (as a tuning trick), you may get a few more ponies in the HP curve (but not necessarily peak HP) by adding a couple more degrees of spark advance at the higher rpms.

But forget the 128/128 stuff (that's what you do when you don't have a WB). Now strive for AF ratio. You need to alter you thinking a bit. And (ultimately), consider doing a tune in OPEN LOOP and tune TOTALLY based on AF ratio. You may just find your car runs smoother, gets better fuel economy, your engine is more reponsive and has more power.