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How do you burn chips?

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Old 12-01-2003, 09:31 AM
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Car: 1986 Camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: Automatic
How do you burn chips?

I would go searching right now for the right post, but i'm merely moments away from going to the next period. So, i'll ask here. How do you go about burning your own chips? Can you do it with stock chips, or should you buy another to burn? And, of course, what is the best program to use?

Thanks
Old 12-01-2003, 10:13 AM
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Read Traxion's Introduction to PROM tuning article.

It will answer most if not all of your questions.
Old 12-01-2003, 02:50 PM
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Car: 1980 Jeep CJ7
Engine: AMC 360 with GM TBI
Transmission: TF727 set for kill...let's get it on!!!
I just read Part 1 of that article...WOW! That REALLY shed some light into the VE tables and how to get started tuning. The disheartening part was the part that read: "My first EFI attempt took 400 chips to get right. Knowing what I know now that would probably be 70."
That kinda scares me...not to the point that I won't see this through to completion, but it makes me think my Jeep may not be running right until sometime next summer...SHEESH....
With that, I'll ask a few questions here if no one minds...
1.) What is a scan tool? Where do I get it and how much $$ will it cost?
2.) What is Datamaster? Can I download it from an FTP site somewhere?
3.) Is there a way to erase the OEM chip on an 8746 ECM (2732 chip) or do I just have to get a new chip each time?
Old 12-01-2003, 03:29 PM
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1. a device that hooks up to your ALDL to gather data on how your car is running. THere are many scan tools available from several manufacturers.

Example....... Snap-on, GM Tech II, MAC .......... They are all on the expensive side.

2. Datamaster is a program that you can purchase. This program gets installed onto a laptop (preferably) and in conjuction with a ALDL to laptop cable, your laptop with datamaster efectively becomes a scan tool. I believe there is an eval available for download on their site.

3. I would leave the stock chip alone. You should buy a memcal adapter and a blank 29C256 EEPROM chip from Craig moates ( www.Moates.net ). If you buy the 29c256 chip, it is flashable, so there is no need for a UV eraser (like you have to have to erase the stock chip or a 27c256). You can also re-write over the 29c256 chip MANY MANY times!

Hope that helps!
Old 12-01-2003, 04:53 PM
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dont be frightened by the 400 chips. i burned about 2 per week all summer. the first ten will get you in ballpark and make car run a lot better assuming you are compensating for mods you have done and resulting poor drivability of a poorly tuned ECU. I have reached a point were car runs OK but still have room for improvement. the datalogging and interpretation is what takes time.
Old 12-01-2003, 05:11 PM
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Car: 1980 Jeep CJ7
Engine: AMC 360 with GM TBI
Transmission: TF727 set for kill...let's get it on!!!
All this is helping. I guess it boils down to this...think about how a carb would react in a particular situation, relate that to a TBI system, and fix problems accordingly. Like poor idle...this is usually a result of crappy timing and bad mixture setting. Look at where the log file corresponds to the problem (TPS%, O2, and MAP) and work out the details from there.
Is that a good start? I'll be up and running (I hope) in a few days. Driving the Jeep would be REALLY cool...especially to the hunting lease and back with a deer across the hood.
Mods....hmmmm...cam, head work (gasket match/port/polish, radius exhaust valve job), intake gasket match, ignition, overbore, etc...

Last edited by jeepguy553; 12-01-2003 at 05:20 PM.
Old 12-02-2003, 10:10 AM
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I CHOSE A BIN THAT WAS FOR a stock 350 chev. the idle was fine as was the choke, coolant start up, and general drivability. lucky me the WOT was very close at 12.1 /1... the issue day one was pumpshot. that i am still working on. another issue was no heat to manifold and cold weather warm up was very compromised. i did add more gas to coolant temps under 160 deg F. that i have not yet had chance to check out as car in barn weather today 15 deg F.
Old 12-03-2003, 10:36 AM
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Burning chips is a process. Fo example I'll change the setting in the chip several times in one session. I'm using the same flash chip, just reusing it. It's impossible to get your ecm tuned in one chip burn. But if you are dedicated like me, you'll burn as many times as needed. I've been known to make 40 changes in one day,easy. If you work like that then the chip will take no time. Having the equipment is nice bacause you'll alway find little quirks that you'll want to fix. Like if you tuned the chip in the summer but it needs more fuel for cold startups in the winter. So when Tim says 400 chips that means one chip done over and over to get tuned, its probally him just being picky. You'll notice a major change once you start to burn. Your jeep will be running great in no time. If you want to nail out the fine details, it could take some time. Most people with stock chips wouldn't sweat the small stuff, they can't even tell how far the ecm is off. Once you hook up a scan tool, you'll know whats really going on...
Old 12-03-2003, 10:41 AM
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FWIW - I never said anything about 400 chips. That is something that Grumpy mentioned in one of his writeups. What I said was ... "You will probably burn 10-200 chips..."

That's a huge range. Those who do a lot of experimentation and really want to perfect things will do a lot more than 10 chips. Now, with that said, I can get a pretty good calibration at this point with only about 5 chips.

Tim

Last edited by TRAXION; 12-03-2003 at 10:45 AM.
Old 12-03-2003, 11:55 AM
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I'm on chip number 26 on my car, I still have way more to go, but this is just my experience and I'm still learning.
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