ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

do u have the driver disk that came with your cable? That is the same cable i use. I use mine with TTS Datamaster. Make sure that the driver supports Windows 7. Put the disc in your pc and see.

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

you need to have close to 4.96v on that line. OK, try this: undo neg. battery cable. Locate ecm. Look for BA8 (orange wire). Insert the probe from your meter there. Use a screw on the doorjam for a good ground for your negative probe. Ok, reconnect battery,turn key on and see how much voltage is there. If it is still not near 5v then this eliminates a bad connection between ecm and aldl port,but means your ecm is bad.

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

how much voltage on pin E? reason i ask is cause you have an 89'. IIRC,they use pin E for data

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

when i had a bad ecm, my voltage on my serial data line was only 3.96v

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/4...m-pinouts.html

scroll down about halfway,that is the pinouts for the 165 ecm like yours. i would try the xp machine that worked before. I wouldnt spend any $ yet. Borrow an xp pc if you have to.

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

Thanks,
I have some drives laying around here that I can throw XP on real quick for my laptop

Ill check the Orange wire and see about pinE

Thanks for the help.

~josh

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

PinE reads the same, jumps between 3 & 4 volts.
Went to BA8 wire and I'm getting the same readings.

Is there a voltage regulator anywhere that I should be testing?
I really dont want to fry another ECM, they are kinda spendy.

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

ok.try xp next. It worked for u before

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

Voltage on that line may be different for your 165 ecm. It may vary from 2-5 v, but on the 7730 (1990-92) it has to be 5v. Try xp,use the drivers for that cable from the disc. Is this the usb style cable or serial? Also in your bios screen make sure u have the com port selected. I would use com3. Turn off all other devices too such as modem,infared as they may be enabled and trying to use the same com port you are trying to use for your Winaldl. Let me know if u have any problems.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

I just looked at the last few posts, so I may be missing some pertinent info here...

But the car is an '89 V8, correct? If so, then you have a 1227165 ECM, that requires the 10K ohm resistor, to at least start the datalogging.

I haven't used WinALDL, I have it, I believe I tried to use it years ago, I use Tuner Pro RT now, and have for a long time.

Can you see the ALDL cable in the device manager?

Win7 is not the problem, I have Win7 on all of my machines and log without issue.

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

Try this cable test. Go to this link. http://www.ttspowersystems.com/DataM...ownloads2.html second from the bottom is a cable test. It should pass all tests if the cable is good. Try it. Did you make sure your com port is set up in the bios? Is the Winaldl program set to match the same com port? Did you use the drivers from the actual cd for your cable? You can do a hyperterminal test too to determine connectivity. Let me know about the cable test first.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

WinALDL is 160 baud only. However, try both 2400 and 4800 baud settings. I know it sounds odd, but those are the two baud rates to use.

Can use ALDL pin E or M, they are wired together.

No need for the 10K resistor unless you are trying to connect at 8192 baud.

IIRC, the 160 baud ALDL constantly transmits, that is why the voltage is changing.

RBob.

camarosrock1989

iTrader: (1)

Having some problems with my car, My ECM is reading crazy. which brought me to this thread. My mechanic has replaced my Throttle position Sensor, Temp Sensor,
and Oxygen Sensor. Code still exist plus more. Before I had any problems with having engine light come on I changed out my Catalytic converter. With a direct fit because that is what was in it. Big mistake. After putting it on and it not fitting just right causing some leak in cat due to mechanics welding machine not working at the time was not able to get the leak welded. Was wondering if the exhaust leak could be causing all the bad readings? I am having a problem while driving with the car cutting out and when letting up off the gas and accelerating lack of power, then seems to catch and go again. I hope I am explaining this to where you guys can understand. I am a lady and do my best to get my point across. Its funny how when dealing with a mechanic and they just say lets try this and that, but problem still exist and money is spent, very frustrating. So any advice would help. Thanks in advance

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

What code is it? a code 13?

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

well i cant understand what went wrong (or what went right)

Installed an XP VM on my win7 machine this morning and went out to attempt some data logging.

For the life of me I could not get one of the data programs to see my serial/usb cable. This was why...

Verified that XP saw the cable and was installed.


Right click, properties. Settings...


Advanced...


As you can see in the first pic, says com3. However it is actually com4.

Started the car, changed the comport to 4, clicked "test com" and got this message...


Hit record and voila! Fixed.
Drove around for a good 20 minutes and this is the part that gets me. The car worked PERFECTLY. Didn't sputter once...
I used datamaster32. not sure if you can pull up .uni files on other datalogging programs. The file is just too big to attach to the site here. Email me at joshsnow99@hotmail.com if can take a look at it.

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

Turns out the problem is completly sporadic.
Car will sputter out, loose power, SES light flashes sporadicly and then something seems to reset and everything works perfectly.

Happens randomly. Any speed, any RPM range, any temperature, any accelerator position.

Has to be the ECM or the PROM right?

WASyL

nope, might be lots of other things, drive everytime with laptop and logging on all the tome, when SES shows up check with datamaser32 error codes and you'll know where to start

best regards

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

are your fans running too when this happens? if so that is more than likely a bad prom.

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

So heres the deal.
Went to the parts store and ordered a new TPS and a new ECM. Installed the TPS, same problems.
Installed the new ECM and everything started working perfectly. Drove around for a good half hour and everything was fantastic.
On the way home, the voltage gauge dropped off sharply all the sudden to around 10 volts. Parked the car and tested voltage with the car off and with the car on. No change.

Went and got a new alternator the next day and put it in. Just took an 800 mile road trip problem free. May have been a combination of the three items but I attibute alot of the problems to the ECM. Went and got a refund for the old ECM from the parts guys because it was maybe 6 months old.

Moral of the story, DONT START YOUR ****ING CAR WITHOUT THE MAIN GROUND STRAP ON...

ahankins32984

Could be a ICM or possibly a fuel issue my 86 Z28 acted like that and after changing everything under the hood and the ECM my problem wound up being a bad fuel pump!!!!

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

bad ecm is a common problem on these cars

amyz28

Oh god finally finding some suggestions!! ive been off the road 3 months to a very similar prob or probs ,shes an 86 iroc completley standard except k+n and after an unusually (hard drive) one day the SES light began 2 flicker at same time the engines would splutter+loose power this went on about 5min before it cut out at low revs (its an auto) i managed to kangaroo home and ever since its had 2 small runs to see how things go, it seems to run fine cold then same happens when eng begins to heat?? last time it was out was about 2weeks ago,to the tuning clinic, they specialise in american cars as im in scotland and even they were baffled they said the diagnostic machine went haywire,cudnt read a code and they suspected bad ECM or a break in the wires to the ECM?so far ive not had an autospark out and to be honest pretty useless myself only thing im good ats polishing and driving it! :/ it had a new O2 SENSOR 1.5 YR AGO ALONG WITH NEW LEADS AND PLUGS ITS ALSO JUST HAD A BRAND NEW BATT PUT IN (750CCA) and it had a brand new alternator 3yrs ago, ive read these posts and c it cud be like 15 diff things!!! aaaargh so stressed and on a budget, dont know where to start x